MonsterMunch

I'm stunned at the prices being asked on eBay. Reliable but ditchwater dull lardy courier hack, I'd have said £500-850. I'd be amazed if someone actually paid those prices given what else could be purchased for a couple of grand. I really feel I don't understand the world much anymore. I do have to agree with you, in full running condition I would consider a grand tops. However, it's what others imagine it to be and what they're prepared to pay when it comes to the crunch, just look at what people pay for that old rust trap called the Honda Cub.

Probably because that was the only source I was aware of, as for nail varnish remover, there's hardly enough in one of those bottles to test for ABS, let alone repair it.

Google is your friend: https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=suzuki+gp100+seat

I've had a great deal of success repairing fairings with old bits of ABS. ABS dissolves in acetone which is freely available through ebay. I've repaired mounting lugs with it, fixed cracks and even filled holes with it. For cracks, first drill a small hole at the ends of the crack to stop it spreading further, vee out the back of the crack, fill with a creamy paste made from ABS dissolved in acetone, and reinforce the back with fibreglass matting soaked in the paste. It works well because the acetone in the paste softens, then bonds to the surface of the repaired object. I sourced sacrificial ABS from a couple of old bits of fairing laying about in my garage, and also from the front cover of my knackered spin dryer, you might be surprised just how much stuff is made from ABS. A quick test for ABS is to wet a bit of cloth, or tissue with acetone and rub it on the plastic you're testing, if it's ABS, it will start to dissolve and will mark the cloth with the colour of the plastic.

You can buy this as a kit for around 4,500 euros, pedigree uncertain but if you fancy it...................? http://www.theblackdouglas.co.uk/contac ... hard&cat=4

Bearing in mind you can tow a suitable trailer with a motorcycle, would it be feasible to tow the bike with a bracket fastened to the bicycle handlebars, not that I would fancy doing it, just a thought.

It's always a pleasure seeing a machine being put back on the road rather than being consigned to the knackers yard and there's always something to be learnt from other peoples work.......looking forward to seeing more.

"> Video of an American chap who welded two CBX1000s together to make a V12!

There should be a fairly strong spring attached at some point to the brake lever, is it there and is it effective, that is, not stretched? The pivot that the lever turns on may have partially seized, disconnect the brake rod between the pedal and the rear brake, and see if it turns freely. If all this checks out OK, you probably need to take a look at the brake itself.

Most Jap bikes from the early 70's, and most certainly Hondas, were manufactured to run on unleaded fuel. In this respect, the Japanese were far in advance of europe. Your 'guy' clearly doesn't know what he's talking about, if your bike is running ok, then it's not overheating, just doing what most air cooled engines do, getting warm.

Have look here: http://www.wulfsportinternational.com/boots.php Based in the Workington/Whitehaven area of Cumbria, hope it helps.