Welsh1da

After posting a previous thread I decided to get a pair of Michelin Street tyres and got them fitted etc.... However, I've noticed as I'm riding that between 20-30mph there is just the tiniest sensation of wobbling I don't feel it at slow speeds or over 40? Is this something to be concerned about? Is it fixable or just a part n parcel of new tyres that sort themselves out? Cheers.

Thanks guys, the tyres are bang on a year old, but being outside, they have been exposed to the elements, though they are under a cover most of the time. So at my weight, a year old and at 7000 miles, is that pretty good for a 125cc tyre? Or is there something that I can do to make them last longer etc?

Hello again. I've a 2011 yamaha Ybr125 and are clocking into the higher teens of stone in weight. Just wondering if my tyres are ready for a change? I've done about 7000 miles on them and the bikes stored outside. Recently I've noticed some 'splits' (bout 1cm long) running in the thick rubber at the end of each groove of my outer tread patrern, also theres hundreds of tiny feather like cracks on the inside the tread grooves themselves. There is still plenty of tread left, so wondering what's caused these features I see, should I be worried and of course, do they need changing? Also (if I need to replace them) I'll be having Michelin Pilot tyres as a replacement, the site states 2bar for the rear and 1.75 for the front, being heavy, so do I stick with manufacturers recommendations or how should I adjust these for weight? Also is there any care for tyres to make them last longer or avoid the features I've described here? .... Cheers!

Hey guys, me again, seems this bike always has to have the last say when it comes to faults or repairs lol. Anyway latest issue, I've a 2011 Yamaha YBR125 and my FRONT RIGHT indicator has stopped working as follows: FRONT LEFT: WORKS FINE REAR LEFT: WORKS FINE DASH LEFT: WORKS FINE FRONT RIGHT: NO LIGHT REAR RIGHT: SOLID LIGHT ON, DOESENT FLASH DASH RIGHT: SOLID LIGHT ON, DOESENT FLASH I've tried revving (someone suggested this can arc over a bad connection) So, am I looking at simply a blown bulb based on this or something more sinister threatening my wallet?? Cheers.

No, the Tom Tom is just the cheaper 4.5" 'start' model, comes with a suction mount already attached that I stick to the rev counter screen with a lanyard round it and the mirror in case it ever comes off so I don't loose it. Comforting to know this did not cause the issue and wont present a problem, I'll reinstall it tonight, got a week off next week so it'll be getting its ten pence worth. Cheers again guys.

Yeah, I hear you there but the USB unit has an on off switch on it so no power is supplied to the USB Its this one: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motorcycle-parts-USB-Cell-phone-GPS-Charger-Lighter-Interface-12V-24V-Waterproof-Universal-Switch-Mirror-Mount/32491345105.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Quite a range of possibilities, had a similar problem myself recently. Keep the checks basic before worrying about bigger problems, I'd check: 1: Battery voltage/connectors...I say this as the battery may not be charging properly or delivering the correct output. 2: HT lead, may be malfunctioning or on its way out (replaced this recently on my bike that often cut out when applying throttle, solved all my issues) 3: Blockages/dirt in air filter that can affect the fuel/air ratio in the engine. 4: Dodgy spark plug, inspect it, clean it....their cheap enough so even preplace it. 5: Dodgy ground wire, inspect for loose/corroded connections, give things a bit of a wiggle when the bikes running, see if anything causes a change in rhythm (a loose/worn spark plug cap gave me some grief for a wile) Beyond that things go a little deeper and is beyond me to advise, one of the more experienced chaps will help here I'm sure.

Hello, I purchased a Tom Tom sat nav for my 2011 YBR 125 a while ago and need some advice. Now this charger has an 'on off' switch on the top of the unit and I had the terminals connected directly to my battery. I've recently come off a hefty repair job on my bike, where my battery and regulator was allegedly knackered which, according to the mechanics, was a result of using the USB charger (I've since found them to be cowboy repair men, so don't know how much truth there is to this). So by having an on off switch do you think its safe enough to use directly connected to the battery and probably didn't cause the initial damage? Can USB chargers potentially knacker a battery and regulator when used? Are there any chargers or ways of using or wiring a USB charger that would be suitable for my bike, as I'd really like to use one on long trips? Cheers!

Just an update, I replaced the HT lead and all juddering and cutting out has stopped.......I feel as though I've been scammed by the guys repairing my bike, as everything that got repaired/replaced still produced the same fault, but a £15 second hand HT lead and all is right in the world. Cheers for the advice guys.

Try and anchor your bike to something like a lamp post or ground anchor, get a heavy duty chain and loop it through the rear wheel and suspension, try to leave as little slack on the chain as possible which will hinder cutting tools and blunt impacts. A front disc lock helps, another idea would be to use the steering lock and have the bike as close to a wall as possible (makes it difficult to get poles through the chassis and lift the bike), in addition get a motion sensitive alarm like Data Tool etc... Also deterrents can work well too, have your bike under a cover, put some BS warning signs on it like 'GPS' tracking fitted or 'smile your on CCTV'. Basically, you need to make stealing your bike more trouble than its worth.

So after 3 months of restraint from taking a hammer to my bike (YBR 125 2011), its slowly starting to come back to its old self after numerous repairs and fixes....so here's what's left... 1. Idle screw set to 1700 instead of the suggested 1400, as this causes the bike to splutter and cut out. 2. Some jerkiness, almost feels like its loosing power, in 2nd gear at 20mph at around 3000rpm, doesn't happen on any other hear or rev. 3. Bike sometimes misfires when I rev and with the throttle fully open the rev counter goes crazy, catching and missing (rare this happens, but a worry when it does). 4. Recently I noticed my headlights dim a fair bit and the 'hum' from the fuel pump lessens when I'm at traffic lights and I have the break on, sometimes this even seems to drop the revs a little. Any Ideas on each of the above symptoms, especially no 4.? I've a new HT lead, yet to be fitted, to hopefully combat the cut out at point 1. And the misfiring at point 3. SO any ideas on the rest? My bikes sooooo close to being what it once was, if I can get these last few points sorted I'll be one happy biker mouse from mars!!! cheers in advance.

Also my idle screw has been set to 2000 rpm, according to specs it should be nearer 1400, but when I set it to this in idle, the bike splutters and cuts out, is this sounding more inline with a HT lead issue? Just want to be sure, as I've spent so much on getting this bike repaired over the last couple of months that I'm trying to keep anything else it could be to a minimum, if it helps, its also been very dodgy when left out in the rain, has trouble starting and misfires like mad till engine and all that has warmed up.

Still a thread on the plug, the cap itself makes a short vibrating sound when pushed onto the plug, as the cap seems threaded too. This might sound daft when you think about it, but the engineers used to just pull the cap off the plug (while still in the engine) remove the plug, put a new one in and slide the cap back on. I'm wondering if the plug is meant to be SCREWED into the cap and THEN put on the engine, rather than already in the engine and the cap just pushed on????

No air filter hasn't been changed, but has been checked and is in good condition according to the repair men.

2 months ago my lovely, well looked after Yamaha YBR125 2011 bike went haywire!!! After 8 months of flawless performance, one cool spring evening the bike began to cut out when idling at lights/junctions and jerking or 'bucking' like mad when applying throttle and struggling to 'catch' and supply power to move forward, when this happened the rev counter was dipping massively almost struggling to 'catch'. So.......nearly £400 later the following repairs have been made: 1. New battery 2. New regulator 3. New fuel pump (filter was black) 4. New clutch 5. 3x new spark plugs (new each time as a precaution) 6. Crack in the exhaust repaired (with gun gum, a coke can and jerry clips) 7. Valve clearances adjusted 8. Chain lubricated and tightened 9. Idle screw adjusted to 2000rpm (when set to 1400 or 1700 by default the bike struggles and cuts out) Now here's the mystery.....with each repair the bike worked fine for a couple of days, until the fault slowly crept back in and it began cutting out again and the bucking came back at specific gear/revs but not as bad as the initial fault, just a more tolerable version. Currently it bucks in 2nd gear at 20mph and 3rd gear at 25mph, it also sounds like its spluttering a little at take off from 1st gear. BUT.....at high revs on the open road there are no problems at all, jus the lower gears and revs when going through the streets. Running out of ideas, I changed the spark plug myself this weekend and noticed something odd....if I wiggle the spark plug cable/cap when in idle, the bike sounds like it sputters and cuts out, I've cleaned the cap and the plug and runs a tad better (made sure its firmly on) but still a bit of wiggling still causes the bike to loose power and cut out, I've even trimmed the cable by 1cm and re-screwed in the cap with no difference. I'm assuming in my noob mind this 'touchiness' with the cable isn't normal, so would a replacement cable/cap solve the whole thing, or from my account above (especially as this bucking only happens at certain speeds in certain gears) is there still more to this problem do you think????? I'm a proper biker without a proper bike, but this experience is starting to kill it for me and some days I just want to go back to public transportation, but I don't want to give up, just want a bike that works again. Any ideas guys?