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steer_rally

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About steer_rally

  • Birthday 06/01/1972

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  • Location
    Brecon Beacons

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  • Interests
    Music, rallying, DIY

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  1. I commute 30miles each way, every day, and I haven't taken the car to work (or anywhere else for that matter) since the middle of January, so I suppose that makes me an all-weather rider
  2. I've been trying to investigate engine running problems - erratic idling, vibration, hesitation up to 3K revs (pulls like a train above 3K), "hunting" at constant throttle and popping/backfiring on over-run. There doesn't seem to be a vacuum leak (WD40 sprayed around carb rubbers has no effect). Plugs are all new & gapped, and are a nice light brown colour. Air filter ok, could be cleaner but not too bad. Carbs have been balanced. So local bike shop/garage suggested I check the throttle position sensor. Everything checks out ok - correct voltage getting to the tps, resistance increases/decreases as I open & close the throttle, and resistance as measured from the ignition module is within range. So all seems ok there. BUT. According to the Honda manual I've got, if i disconnect the plug from the TPS, start the engine and take it up to 3.5k revs, then re-connect the TPS the revs should increase. Nothing happens. Basically there's no difference in engine performance, idle, or anything else as far as I can tell, whether the TPS is connected or not. So now I'm baffled, as the TPS doesnt seem to be doing anything at all. Granted, I'm not sure exactly what it should be doing, presume something to do with fine-tuning the ignition timing? I know if I disconnect the TPS on my car the engine just stops completely. Any opinions? Apologies for the long-winded post, but any suggestions much appreciated!
  3. Well, basically she tried mod2 on a 500, dropped it on an off-camber junction, lost her confidence and decided to try on a smaller, lighter bike. I would have thought the mod1 will still be valid for 2 years despite having passed mod 2 So she would have to take mod 1 on a 125 again and then mod 2 or just do mod 2 again onn a 500 ? that would make sence cos How can the DSA make her mod 1 pass on a 500 invalid when she passed it fair and square ? so that is what I reckon the outcome would be ,,a mod 2 retake on 500 or mod 1 & 2 on a 125 cos her mod 2 pass would be invalid cos she was on the wrong bike and you cant do mod 2 without doing mod 1 oh my head hurts Just got an update, she gets to keep the mod1 certificate, and has been given a slot to try mod2 next week on a 500. So hopefully it'll all turn out ok for her. Thanks for the advice
  4. Well, basically she tried mod2 on a 500, dropped it on an off-camber junction, lost her confidence and decided to try on a smaller, lighter bike.
  5. Yeah, that's how I see it. If it was the other way round, then I could see the point, maybe. Also, I can't understand why she would need to take both tests again. At least she could either re-sit the mod1 on a 125 or the mod2 on a 500, but both again? The training school are doing what they can, liaising with the DSA, asking advice etc, but after some digging around they have found that apparently it does state somewhere in "the rules" that both tests must be done on the same category of bike. I'm sure if she does have to resit the tests they'll she her right with the bike hire/any additional training, but it's the thought of being examined again (so to speak) that means she's not a happy bunny at the moment. Surely sometime during her 4 (or was it 5 or possibly 6) attempts at mod2 the examiner should have spotted the problem.
  6. A friend of mine passed her mod1 earlier this year on a 500, but after a couple of failed attempts at mod2 decided to drop down to 125. She finally passed mod2 a couple of weeks ago on the 125 (6th attempt I believe), and so was all set to start looking for a restricted 500/600 bike. I should add that she contacted DSA before her first attempt at mod2 on a 125 to check that it was ok to do so, even though her Mod1 test had been passed on a big bike. She was told that it was no problem. Unfortunately she didn't make a note of the person's name. Today she received a phone call to tell her that her licence has been revoked, because she switched to 125 after passing the mod1. In other words because she'd passed her mod1 on a big bike, she should have done the mod2 on a big bike too. The upshot is that she will have to sit both tests again, either on a 125 or a 500. She is obviously upset at this - she's a fairly competent rider (well, she has had plenty of training by now, and knows the test route like the back of her hands ), but nerves always get the better of her under test conditions. Has anyone come across this situation before, and is there any advice I can pass on? Many thanks for any replies.
  7. Ok thanks. Going to order the rack & box and take it from there. Cheers.
  8. Ok, so, stupid question time:- how do soft panniers attach to the bike? Strapped to the topbox rack? Bungee'd on? Sorry for what's probably a daft question
  9. I have a '96 CB1000 "Big One" and need to fit a top box and maybe a set of panniers. I've thought about a Givi Wingrack but they don't do a fitting kit for my bike, so was thinking of trying a universal fitting kit. Before I go and spend all my beer tokens, though, does anyone have/had a CB and had any luggage fitted? Any tips, any luggage systems that fitted well/easily. Ideally I'm looking for minimum of a top box that will hold 2 lids, side panniers to carry work clothes/shopping/etc Any advice gratefully received, since I'm getting fed up of a 60 mile a day commute with a rucksack flapping around behind me Thanks
  10. I know years ago Redex bottles used to have instructions to the effect of pouring some down the spark plug holes then replacing the plugs and running the engine. Apparently it would clean carbon deposits from the piston face. Tried it once in an old Fiesta, made huge clouds of smoke for about 15 minutes. Can't really remember if it made any difference to the engine performance, but didn't do any harm
  11. Well, I've sprayed both WD40 and Easistart around the carbs and the intakes, with no change in engine speed, so am assuming that there are no air leaks. It mostly happens when I'm riding, but does happen sometime if I try replicating the problem at standstill. If I blip the throttle, sometimes it takes quite a while to drop back to idle speed. When this happens, the throttle mechanism on the carbs seem to have return to the stops ok. I obviously can't check this while moving, but the throttle doesn't seem to be sticking or failing to return at all. Also, there only seems to be one throttle cable, the one to open it. Looks like springs to make it close. Anyway, thanks for the advice so far, I'll have another poke around tomorrow after work, see if I can find anything sticking.
  12. I have an intermittent problem (another one ) with my pre-diversion XJ600. Sometimes, about 50% of the time in fact, the revs take along time to die down when I close the throttle. This can happen when changing gear (makes gear changes less than smooth), waiting at junctions (embarrassing), or just when wanting to slow down approaching corners etc (no engine braking, excess use of brakes). The cable is free, and mechanically the carb linkages all seem to return ok, so I'm wondering if the carbs being out of balance could cause this? Or could the fact that it doesn't happen all the time mean that something inside that carbs is sticking. I'm hoping to borrow a carb balancer soon to check the balance, but in the meantime has anyone experienced this or have any suggestions? Many thanks
  13. Thanks, Lee, kind of the conclusion I'd come to - I assumed that since the relay was clicking, even though the lights weren't working, the switch must be ok. However, since I replaced the switch, the lights have worked perfectly. It could be that I've inadvertantly "fixed" a bare or broken wire by moving it, and the problem may return, but for now if it aint broke I aint going to fix it.
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