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Rik398

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About Rik398

  • Birthday 24/05/1991

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Bike(s)
    Aprillia Pegasso Strada 650, Triumph Daytona 600
  • Location
    UK, Newton Abbot / Exeter

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  1. Thanks FastBob, At this point, I am half considering just taking it to a garage and saying "sort it". May cost but then at least it is done and I can sip coffee while waiting. Moved from somewhere with a garage to somewhere without recently (big mistake!) think I am done with standing in a driveway in the rain trying to sort stuff out (it was dry when I bled the system, no water!) At least with stuff like chain and sprockets its on and done, but this could turn into a bottomless pit of testing. Will give it a crack on the weekend but after that, I shall have to succumb. Saved enough other the years to give a garage a shot! Will report back should anything odd be the cause. May save some people some pain.
  2. Was considering that as a possibility. The pistons could be pushing in ok because of the angle of the seal, but then be being retracted to much because of a tight fit caused by some dirt. Looked fairly clean at the point of doing it, but pulling the pistons shouldn't be too tricky now as they move a lot easier so no harm in a double check. Before that though, I was thinking of putting a square bit of wood in there and seeing if problem persists. If it stops, then it would point to some oddly worn pads which may knock pistons back unevenly. Don't look bad enough to do that at first glance though.
  3. Thanks for the replies. Hoping it is not air, as the garage charged 60 quid to bleed the system and swore blind there was no air in there. I did think it was air when I originally took it to them. Will get some more fluid and maybe crack the banjo at the master cylinder. I don't believe it to be in the calipers or lines, partly due to the pure volume of fluid I put though and did the tie break lever down, tapping lines, calipers off the bike etc. Pads are the ones that were in there before the rebuild, just possibly in different caliper / position than they were when they were taken out. Seals are OEM suzuki from Fowlers. Seal kit included the one that links the caliper halves.
  4. Morning All, After rebuilding my front calipers, I now have a odd lever feel. The seals are square for this particular bike and fit in an angled groove, so they are installed right. There is no air in the system, which was my initial concern, as the local bike shop bled the system for me to confirm. And the master cylinder feels right, as in the lever doesn't sink to the bar. The pistons move freely, moving forward and back, and will push in happily by hand. I cant see that there are any fluid leaks anywhere while applying pressure. What is happening, is the first pull of the lever has much more travel than the second. The brakes are strong and working, its just that the first pull has more travel. The garage have speculated that, if the pads have gone back in the calipers in a different configuration to what they were before, then because the pads are not mated to the surface of the disk, they will sit further out until they are bedded in, and that is why the lever travels more on the first pull, because it is moving the piston more, and on the second pull, the piston hasn't had chance to move back, so less travel. At the moment, to me, that explanation sort of makes sense and i am happy to do a few miles to bed pads in (brakes are operable). However, if this is not the case, what else could this be? Anything else likely to cause excessive piston retraction or the above lever symptoms?
  5. Rik398

    Fork Seals

    Thanks for replies, I did consider the bushings and probably should have just done them (not massively expensive it seems) but bike only has 20k on it and I am fairly sure the seals just went because the dust covers went dodgy and it gets ridden fairly regardless of weather in all the lanes and stuff so does get filthy. So fork oil leak is more or less an all or nothing approach then. If its not everywhere, then your fine? Just paranoid as there is no before or after shot in my head like there usually would be!
  6. Congrats on the advance. I would recommend the blood bikes, you can try it and see as most groups want you to do a bit of volunteering before riding, and often they have stands at bike nights and car shows and things which can be a cool way to spend the day. Other times it's just holding a bucket at a supermarket but surprisingly fun as most people involved seem fairly sound. Yeah hopefully I can use my own bike and be covered by my own insurance in the interim. I do think having a minimum age of 30 is a little harsh, they're are a few people I know who are interested but probably won't get involved now which is a shame. But then I works day that as in our group it only affects me!
  7. Rik398

    Fork Seals

    Hi folks, So, put the bike in the dealership for a new tyre, and the health check that they do pointed out I had leaking fork seals. Obviously with the price difference, and generally doing maintenance myself I put new seals in. Now, the next bit will sound odd. Because I didn't really look at the forms when they were bad because diagnosis came from the garage, I am not entirely sure what bad seals look like. So, this also means that I don't know if the new seals are working or not. They're is a very faint line left on the tube when compressed, but it's so faint out could be just funny bits of dirt pushed up by dust seal. If I wipe a finger under this line, it feels no more slippery then above the line / further up the tube so no residue as such. Presumably, if the fork seal is leaking, then after a week or so, if I pop the dust seal off there would be a pooling of oil on top of the oil seal and that would be the best way to tell?
  8. Hey Folks, Been a while and I like to try and update these things with an end result. So, after a few lessons, and a bit of a wait to get a test date, I have now passed the advance. Was a bit worried on test date because a) I knew of I failed a retreat would be happening December at some point by the time it got arranged and b) it was in Plymouth, some police incident was on and Marsh Mills roundabout is generally a pain in the ass but all was well. Enjoyable experience and good riding. Do I feel safer? Possibly not, but I feel work a fair amount of experience you get to know what hazards to look for, but I do feel much smother and quicker through extending the view etc. As for blood bikes, unfortunately, on the same week I passed they change their insurance so the age limit went from 25 to 30. Still doing the fundraising though, and talks are happening around whether I can use my own bike while waiting.
  9. Thanks for all the suggestions. Good to be back on here, been a while. Massive work commitments at the moment. I am more than happy to pay me money and get stuck in. Either way it will be informative I am sure. Just with a masters going on, and work development assessments I am a little test weary at the moment but this being different as something I want to do. Sounds like observer opinions will vary. I like the idea of pretending to be filmed, just looking for an overall objective to keep in mind to keep my head right. Also sounds more like adaptability and open mindedness over 'difficulty'?
  10. Hey Folks, So, been riding for a while now (10 years) and until the last year motorbikes were the only way to get around. After a change in career (teaching to QS) I have had 2 issues. 1) less time on the bike due to be lumbered with a company car. I still take the bike in when commuting, but get some serious frowns if I use it to go from office to office 2) Though I like the new job, and seems to be a good fit for me with a decent promotional ladder etc, being a bean counter in a construction company has left me slightly unfulfilled in terms of what I do in wider society. As a result, I have decided that I want to join the local blood bike group. Just to give back a bit and get on the bike more again. Obviously, this requires advance riding qualification, and I am planning the IAM route, through recommendation of my local group, and I had considered it with them before a something to do in a summer. Question being, has anyone done this? How difficult is it to pass? From an observational perspective I feel I have good observation and am constantly looking around, but it seems an area which may be a bit grey at this stage is positioning. Positioning for the best view, but not compromising safety seems like it could be a matter of opinion in some cases. Are the observers generally looking for all round safety and some evidence of intentional positional change, or is it a much more strict, prescribed methodology than this? And other things, like at what point would you be expected to make an overtake. I understand making progress, but if we are in a 60 zone and the guy in front is hovering around 50/55, personally in a test situation I wouldn't really consider this a massive hindrance to my progress as such. Appreciate your thoughts.
  11. Just as an update - It was water in the connection. Not sure how water got in there in the first place as it is the side that facing the ground when on its stand but sorted it anyway.
  12. Yes, the stator could be fried - It is worth looking. You can remove the cover without loosing all the oil. Some oil will come out (about half a cup) as the stator sits in a bath of oil. To confuse things further with the daytona 600 in particular, I have also heard it said that the rotor (the spinning magnet surrounding the stator) is too powerful and fries the stators, to the point where I have seen a kit for sale which has both the stator and the rotor. I have only heard this from one source though, which happens to be the shop selling the kit. Personally, I think this is potentially confusing the issue, and would focus on checking that the stator is ok and sorting out the RR. If the stator is dead, you can do an exchange re - wind service. The OEM stator is available as a part from triumph, but is horrifically expensive. If you go on triumph rat, you can see that you can test the stator without removing the cover.
  13. Found what I believe to be the speedo cable. Tracing the wire was a pain and I only got so far without having to take off an unproportional amount of stuff. But combining this with pictures of the connector online I think I found it. Some water came out when I pulled the connection apart, so have sprayed some wd 40 in there and have left the connection open to dry for a bit. Hoping that this was the issue. Definitely water in there and sensor itself, and clocks themselves working fine. Thanks for the tip about harness no 2. Not sure the power is being interrupted though as time and trip remain unchanged so hopefully this is it, otherwise plan B.
  14. I had the same issue with mine. Essentially, the fix involves upgrading the rr. The one on there is a shunt type, and you can buy, or source from a Yamaha r1 I believe, a much better mosfet unit. You can also get a wiring harness to make this very much plug and play. The second part of the fix is to directly wire the output from the rear to the battery, which eliminates all of the potential inefficiencies in the wiring harness. It's all on the Triumph rat site. There is a wizard on there who figured everything out. The ticking in the bike, as said is the starter relay. When battery is low and you try and start, it will struggle to turn the starter. Ideally, you want to be putting more like 14 to the battery. Some guys also stuck a volt meter on as part of the upgrade to keep an eye on things.
  15. Gsf1250 - everything else on the clocks works fine, no flickering and no loss of function anywhere else, just that occasionally the speedometer says 0 mph it's Intermittent but more 0 than actually registering a speed. I have had the speed sensor out and cleared out the godly mess that the front sprocket area tends to get but problem persists. Sensor itself not damaged or anything. Next step will be the trace the wiring to the clocks and see if anything is loose. Any known tips or tricks here. Am I right to assume that the clocks themselves are probably fine, and that the sensor is fine in that it occasionally registers something? Thanks folks. Electrical stuff annoys me.
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