rider555

I think you done well to have them 14 years, I bought recently some cheaper textile trousers of ebay, if you looking at ebay when I went for my usual size they are bit bigger where if you go for jacket they opposite and need to get size up. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Is the scoring on both sides of piston? Also what position is the piston when you hear knock. I use to race 1/5 scale models with 2 stroke engines and only time I have seen that sort of scoring was down to lack of lube or some sort of particals, how deep are the scoring? Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Careful.....some plumber's flux is incredibly aggressive and if you don't clean the joint after soldering it will eventually (or sooner!) fail due to corrosion. I never use plumber flux for soldering electrical wires etc. This stuff is great, very nice neat solder joints https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253018379203 Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

ahh ok, didn't know that The clocks are from 2005 model, I think they change them from 2008 where they have another wire for FI light- engine fault light or something like that, just had a quick look at back picture, wiring looks the same as older models just have that extra wire for FI light, the easy way to spot newer clocks is the will have white shadow around needles and white digits, older have yellow digits.

Little update, rev counter now only revs to 11k, not sure that's how it should be or not as the original was a bit off is well, so looks like replacing ground wire in cluster loom sorted everything out. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Thanks Mr Fro Can you give bit more details what do you mean about crank pick up, don't think the lexmoto have any sensors there. I got the fuel gauge working and back light on volt meter now. Still some work left. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Fuel gauge should work as I am using the same from Lexmoto with lexmoto loom, will check resistance on sender unit, rev counter If I am correct CBR take the same signal as Lexmoto from Ignition coil, looking at the tacho markings are Pulse/IGN and Ground Pulse = signal wire, IGN=12v supply and Ground. Done some cable replacement on loom as I found the ground wire had some corrosion inside, bit of oxidization on connectors is well, all clean now and ready for testing.

Yes you right to some extend, I had to use mobile phone for more accurate speedo and easy read but the whole point of this was that I won't have to do this and don't want my phone strapped to handler bars or satnav, for what it cost me for used set of clocks from ebay I think is worth it. Some might say you should know how fast you going by the feel but I can't say just yet need more experience. Like I said some might see as pointless.

Here is little video to show its working, will do another tomorrow once I get better back light on volt meter and fuel gauge working, hoping the speedo will be more accurate now. https://youtu.be/T6qCiRbapz8

I got feed up with reading small MPH dials on lexmoto xtrs clocks, as most of you will know main clocks is in Kph and you get poxy green Mph digits plus the lexmoto speedo are out about 8-10 mph, I have seen this been done on some sort of blog but the guy done only speedo swap with rev fascia as the rev counter won't fit in lexmoto housing, well I decided I was going to run CBR clocks housing with both speedo and rev counter, some modification required, using original lexmoto loom, 1) you need to join indicators as CBR have only 1 light for them, remove both Green wires and feed orange and light blue wire in to same bulb holder, light works 2) you need to swap temp gauge for volt meter from Lexmoto as there are air cooled and don't have water temp sensor 3) fuel gauge from lexmoto as CBR one have another capacitor and not sure if that will work, will test it at later date 4) you need to trim black housing down a bit where is very pointy at front of clocks otherwise they wont fit 5) volt meter very dim as CBR housing have extra shade around bulb so need to cut this down I have couple of problems - fuel gauge not working for some reason, using lexmoto loom and lexmoto fuel gauge, worked before,rev counter revs to 13k not sure how accurate this is, I am putting all this down to connection, removed clocks now and re-soldered joints ect. will fit tomorrow and test it. "Question is anyone know if removing ground wire from indicator lights could create a problem with fuel gauge" To some it might be waste of time on "ching" bike but for me is learning

How about wrapping the panels?

Well last year I said I just get 125 and be done with it to poodle around,in all honesty I was happy with it until I had a go on my friend 1200cc bike (private road before anyone asks and we been riding few times so he knew I can handle it), how do you choose the right school or individual instructor? I booked my theory and sort of making few phone calls and asking questions, 2 examples Rung sort of school, and after few minutes conversation works out where I choose how many session I want and just pay that amount, sort of made me feel like just give as the money and hope for the best. Then I rung Individual bloke who dose it by him self, we spoke what sort of riding I done and after few min conversation he offered to take me out on big bike to so how I get on and what sort of time he will need to spend with me, he did quote prices for 3/4/5 sessions inc test ect. to give me idea what costs are involved but it felt he was more interested of teaching me then just taking money. I think I know where I would be going but also looking what sort of question you guys ask???

I done the rear brakes last week and was very easy to bleed, now the front was a pig of a job for some reason, most likely because the fluid drained from pipe on floor and caliper was empty where the rear had fluid in pipe and I filled the caliper with fluid before putting on bike, oh well lesson learned. That AJP kit might work I do wonder if this would work http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/cbr_125_rb/11/picture/piston_seal_and_dust_seal_front_brake/

Doesn't 25 x 27 mean outside diameter 27 mm ? 25mm diameter and 27mm piston length

I did exactly this for now, the thin duster they might not see lot of action but definitely get lot of crap on them.