kenrolli

Hi one and all just wondering if anyone has seen this gadget advertised in MCN lately, http://tankchip.com/index.htm It's a metal bar supposedly made of some special alloy that will give your bike a new lease of life basically?? Well at least more MPG and faster acceleration etc.... Now I'm not the gullible type, really I'm not but I did buy one the same time as a work colleague just in case it may work! Anyway I hoped some well educated biker would have some info on this gadget and would be so kind to as to pass on their experience good or bad. They do offer a full refund at any time if your not totally happy with it! Please take a look for yourself because if it does work then I'm sure we'd all benefit from it. Cheers all.....

HI mate sorry for the late reply but I didn't replace the old bulbs as I didn't see the point as the new bulbs are both the correct ones but my local mechanic says he's going to check the wiring and correct it for me! I know there is a problem but for the life of me cannot understand why the high beam is the same level as the low?? Anyway I hope he'll sort it soon. Thanks a lot for your reply, cheers dude!!

Yeah as I thought, thanks for the reply, I can now get on to my 'expert' to see what he says! I thought something was not quite right but didn't like to question the man. Hey ho another bit of the puzzle connected! Cheers mate!

Thanks for the reply Mike but I forgot to mention that both low and high beam stay on together? I can't remember seeing that on other bikes or even mine but I'll replace the other bulbs as suggested but I think the wiring must be wrong if the both beams are on together, thanks again for your input, Ken.

Hi guys, having had good advice on this forum before I am back again with another problem. Having had my Renthal bars fitted by an experienced mechanic my hi beam and low beam headlights are no differenent, i.e. the high beam is no higher than the low beam? Strange I know but the guy says he did not change the wiring in the headlight assembly and all I have done is to fit two new H11 Osram Nightbreakers. Now I did not remember seeing this problem with the old bulbs in it after the bars were fitted but then again I didn't really look as I didn't ride the bike until a few weeks later and noticed the problem when checking my bike before riding it. (as all good bikers do eh?) . Anyway I have checked with the headlight suppliers and yes both bulbs should be the same H11 type. I would very much appreciate any advice on this one as I really need to sort it before MOT comes around again. Thanks guys, looking forward to reading any ideas you may have!

Thanks mate, I think it's much nicer, just looking forward to a ride in the morning to see what it really sounds and goes like!! Yipeeee! Good advice given for sure , cheers mate!

Hi guys here's my ride, complete with new Delkevic DL10 slip on installed today! My 2006 600 Hornet is pretty much stock except for Renthal Road Lows, new end can and a little paintwork to the middle panels! Have always thought the grey panels didn't enhance the colour enough. Hope you enjoy, cheers!! Before with scud launcher can: After with my new toy:

Hi there mate, just thought I could give some advice with your intended bar swap! Although my bike is Honda Hornet 600 I had to get a bike wiring guy to fit my bars (Renthal Low) and I would advise you to maybe do the same. The guy had to remove the headlight and rearrange the wiring behind it and re-route a couple of cables and even then it just about reached! By all means try it yourself but I just lost patience as I didn't have the time to spend either. Do not cut the bars as it defeats the object of fitting wider bars and I personally think they make a lot of difference in cornering as your body weight is further distributed as I found out on my first ride with the new bars. If you love your bike as much as I think then I would say get someone capable as you need to get the holes drilled in the right place for the switch gear to align to. It's was worth the £50 I paid and you'll feel better for having a professional do a good job for you. Hope that helps you in some way and good luck in getting it sorted, you'll not be disappointed for sure! Cheers.

Ok just to update this post I found out by removing the headlight assembly (yes I know ) that the screen is located onto four 'top hat' shaped lugs, so I imagine if you did not remove the headlight you could, with help, compress the screen sides enough to free it up. Anyway, live and learn eh, I now have the screen off and am on the way with my side panels to my local body shop guy to get them colour coded to the rest of the bike, yipeeee! Cheers for all the help, especially Fozzie and I expect to be seen online quite a lot in the coming years.

Just wanted to update my post and to let you all know how grateful I am for all your input, cheers one and all! I ended up getting my local motorbike wiring pro to take a look and he was certain that the job was fairly straightforward BUT as is normally my experience is wasn't to be. He had to remove the headlight assembly, clutch and brake levers so he could re-route the cables etc around the back of the forks as well as all the electrical switchgear, which would have beyond my patience level, all in all he took 2 1/2 hours which was only £50 and did a professional and neat job. Needless to say I am so happy with the result and can carry on riding with my new gold bars into the sunset......well wind and rain really. Again cheers guys and I look forward to being of help if and when needed!!

Ok thanks Fozzie I think I'm being too gentle with it to be honest! I'll try again at the weekend and hopefully it'll suddenly pop off into my hands with little effort!! If I get stuck I shall indeed upload a few photo's ok! Thanks again, cheers!

Hi one and all, have received many a good answer to bike related problems on here so just thought I'd ask another 'dumb' question! I want to remove the fly screen from my Hornet, which looked like so easy to do, but after removing the four bolts I am finding it quite difficult to remove the whole screen. I have tried with some force to push the whole thing inwards to release it from the metal framework but it's not giving an inch! Have even removed the smoked plastic screen itself to make it more pliable but it doesn't seem to want to release? I'm not one for forcing things but am I being a little too gentle with it? Anyone that's already done this will be thinking, 'man it's just sooo easy', but still could someone be so kind to offer your help and relieve me from my frustrations? I only want to remove it so I can take it to my local body shop to scan it to get the right colour as I want to get the two grey panels colour coded to the rest of the bike! Thanks in advance for any help guys and girls!

Thanks to all that replied, I did feel that I was looking at things in the wrong direction but now I feel that I am not. Awesome to have so many knowledgeable people available on this fab forum! Cheers guys and thanks for taking the time!

Hi one and all, I know this has to be one of the most talked about things on many forums but I still cannot find an answer after many weeks of looking? I have read lots of people change the original bars for Renthals without any problem but I must be the either missing something or am completely stupid!! (very possible for sure) I bought the Renthal Gold coloured 'Road Bike Low' bars for my 2006 Hornet 600 and the problem I have is the difference in the length compared to the Honda bars are quite a bit more. In fact the Renthals are 737mm long and my cables on the clutch side are way too short to reach. I can get the front brake lever/kill switch etc to fit ok, well just about really, it's a bit taught but manageable BUT the clutch cable will not stretch far enough. NOW I know I could cut the bars but that kinda defeats the whole object of getting the bars in the first place, so I am being driven crazy as to what to do for the best. The only idea I can come up with is to remove the petrol tank and see if there's any way to re-route the offending cables to alleviate this problem, other than that I am stumped? I can just hear some of you saying how easy this job is but really I would be so grateful for your welcome advice! Thanks so much for reading this, cheers, Ken. P.S. I have read that I may be able to get a longer clutch cable but that doesn't solve the electrical switch cable length??