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Smee

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About Smee

  • Birthday 30/11/1986

Personal Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Bike(s)
    Kawasaki Ninja 650
  • Location
    West Midlands

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  1. In general road riding if you notice any difference between a non-ABS and ABS bike, then it's either broken or you're riding like a spoon. Most people don't practice emergency braking, and even if you did you still couldn't be sure you're not going to grab a fist full of brake in the heat of the moment, or hit some diesel or loose gravel mid-braking. Pretty easy to do a perfect e-brake when the only thing you're going to hit is a cone, and you're expecting it. My bike has ABS, and I hope I never have to experience it working. Would I buy a bike without it? Yep, if I really liked the bike. But if i were 50/50 between a couple of bikes, the one with ABS would get an extra tick in the "pro's" list.
  2. Welcome! Not my cup of tea personally, but chances are it would be illegal to use them "on the road". The Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989 > Part II > Regulation 11
  3. Yep. 3000 mile max. No pillions. Datatag. Approved security device. Not my first rodeo with insurance, tried all the tricks like playing with job titles ect. Tried all the comparison sites (although I'm sure they all used pretty much the same system) and a bunch of brokers directly. Stick it in a garage would half it. Third party only would quarter it. Supposedly the first 3 years are the most expensive for brand new bikes so maybe in a coupe years it will drop significantly, who knows
  4. Had a little more luck today. Called up Bikesure, removed KISS from my security and no increase in premium (because why would removing an anti-theft device make a difference to the price...). The lock I already have I managed to confirm as "sold secure gold" which was another prerequisite for the policy. Premium stayed at £1,300 for the year but whatever. I sort of knew what I was getting myself into pricewise last year when I bought a brand spanking new bike on my brand spanking new cat A license. I was hoping for a slightly more significant drop but then I still pay £700 on a car with 9 years NCB, so I shouldn't have been too optimistic. Good for another year Just need to get out on the bike this weekend to remind myself it's all worth it
  5. Guess i'm back on the phone in the morning to cancel that policy. At least now I know for sure in the future I suppose!
  6. Yeah i'm a pretty "by the book" person so I wouldn't anyway. That's why i'm going through all this hassle to try and confirm KISS and double check my alarm is "sold secure gold", I guess anyone else would just save themselves the headache and assume the insurance company is correct. Pretty much run out of all my google power now. So it looks like i'll just wait until my dealership emails me back. Spent all day dealing with insurance so i'm really hoping it does have one, just so I don't have to call anyone up again. I need a beer now
  7. No mention of an immobiliser or KISS at all. I've emailed my local dealer and the main customer support for kwak. So i'll see if they can shed any light on the matter.
  8. Sorry, it's KISS (Kawasaki) not HISS (Honda). Wasn't aware they didn't give red keys anymore so maybe I do have one after all! Here's my key... If you happen to know anything about kwaks...
  9. I tried Bikesure, they are the ones that have said I have an immobiliser and i'm not sure if I do, I may have to call and cancel the policy before it starts. Emailed the dealer just to check. Bikesure luckily have given a discount for stored on private property. Although the guy on the phone was trying to convince me to store the bike in the house or buy myself a shed to lower it further. If I do have an immobiliser, then I just need to buy myself a "sold secure gold"/ thatham lock (don't think the xena is certified) as he added that as a condition to my policy to lower it down.
  10. So it's renewal time. Cheapest quote was £1,100 (a stupid price, but it was £1,500 last year so at least it's going down...). Bike is stored in a locked rear private garden, under a cover with a xena disk lock alarm (stupidly loud!). I also park my car parked between the two houses so if you want the bike, you've got the move the car, break through the gate and carry the bike with the alarm going off through a gate barely wide enough. But they can't put that on my insurance quote, and it's not technically a driveway, so they tell me I have to put it as "on the road". So according to insurance companies, it's cheaper for me to leave the bike at the front of my house next to the road, than in a secure rear garden. WTF!!! Oh and I finally got a quote for £1,200 which I went ahead with. But the guy was convinced I had an immobiliser saying all bikes from a certain year had the K.I.S.S system manufacturer fitted. I have no flashing red light, and no red key when I bought it from the dealer brand new. So i'm pretty sure i'm going to have to call them back and cancel that policy, as I can't seem to find any proof that I have an immobiliser fitted! Why is it so difficult
  11. Hi Jonathan! CBT on a geared bike would be your easiest route as it's just the generic "geared 125cc package" every place does. Just bear in mind you might spend some of the day re-hashing things you already know (especially if it's a group rather than 1-2-1). There's also refresher courses which you might want to enquire about. In these situations I would always advise to drop your preferred instructor/school an email before booking and explain your position. Whilst not always, they often can change things around to help you out and get something slightly more tailored (such as throw you in a group of people re-taking their CBT, so it's more bike time and less classroom time). Also consider looking for 1-2-1 instructors, they essentially just charge you for a day of their time and you can do whatever you like with that time.
  12. I actually hate this style of training. Signalling should be your default, with the conscious decision to not bother. This style of training risks teaching (in my opinion) not to signal by default, and makes it something you have to think about. A non-required signal never killed nobody, but one forgotten... If you would signal with a car behind, signal with the examiner behind. They need to know, that you know, how and when to signal. Maybe, treat him like someone you're towing but they have the sat nav You should signal to let them know what you're doing, but don't wait for them to pass (because they won't, and if they do, somethings probably gone wrong). In all seriousness, the whole "treat him like" things are generic statements. Not words to stand by completely and certainly many exceptions to each one. They're said to help ease your nerves, not to be over-analysed. You sound about as anxious as I was for my test last year. Once you're 5 minutes into it, the nerves will still be there but you'll be too preoccupied to start over-thinking every decision before you make it.
  13. Smee

    Chain oil

    I use Wurth cleaner & lube. Not out of experience, it just happened to be mentioned a lot when I Googled "Best motorcycle chain lube" when I got my bike. Seems to be doing fine so far.
  14. I had / have exactly the same "issue". However mine is on a brand spanking new kwak ninja 650. No matter what gear or what revs (unless you're going to slow for your gear), without throttle input it will engine brake hard. I had to break my engine in so it never went above 4k rpm, and even that felt like it was nose diving when I let off the throttle. I had my much more experienced rider friends check for issues and it's since been in for 2 services since I bought it. It really concerned me as it just didn't feel right and I hated roundabouts for the same reason as you. What's the problem then? Well it's you It's just a characteristic of your bike, I don't know enough to say why your training schools bikes didn't do it (mine didn't either, i learned on an er6n, so both bikes were parallel twin), some people have said wear and I guess that could be true. It's just something you need to spend time with and you'll get used to it eventually. It still catches me out sometimes, but i'm quite comfortable with it now. If you're putting too much weight on your arms like I was when I started, it will impede your fine motor control and that makes it harder to be smooth. Once I got out of that habit and started to grip the tank before leaning over, roundabouts were much easier. Long straight roads like m.ways are the worst as you can't reposition your hand on the throttle without unintentionally scrubbing a load of speed off, and give up trying to wave at anyone with your right hand, that thing has to be glued to the throttle whilst in motion. If you do need to let off the throttle, pull in the clutch if your sitting up straight and it won't cause you any issues (and hopefully no mechanical problems). I'll do this if I really have to free up my right hand. Just be careful when getting back on it that you let the clutch out smoothly and match your revs otherwise engine braking kicks in. Be in the highest gear possible beforehand, easier to rev match at 3k than at 9k in my experience. It's not all bad though. You'll learn excellent fine motor controls, less brake pad wear and once you're used to it, you can roll up to things, you just have to let off later than you currently are with a much slower smooth roll off. Grip the tank with your knees, keep the weight off your arms and it's perfectly pleasant. The important thing is you've realised how it could affect other road users and like me you tap the rear brake to let them know you're slowing down. Had a few get a little too close for comfort in my first few months! (and not just car drivers). ------- As for the gear selection issue when coasting, yep I had that one too if it's what i'm thinking of. All bikes are the same, although the wear on older bikes may mitigate it somewhat. If you pull the clutch in too early, roll to a stop with it in, then try to change gear, the cogs may not be lined up correctly. Either roll the bike forward or a back a little and try again (hope they now line up close enough), or tease out the clutch until it starts to bite, pull back in and try again (get's things spinning just enough to change gear). If you do coast up to anything, anticipate early and change gears whilst you're rolling before you stop. Once again just something you get used too
  15. https://www.devittinsurance.com/motor-trade/motorcycle-hire/
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