Phill_vtr

I bought one of these brand new in '93 in a rather fetching black grey and pink shellsuit inspired colour scheme. It looked great 20 years ago honest.

Tea, I only ever drink coffee when abroad as the tea always seems to taste shite.

Is the subframe bent/ twisted?

Impossible to say where that clicking is coming from without hearing it for myself. Sounds can travel along a surface and be misleading. I would check the headraces and the wheel bearings for play. It could be a noise from the disc or possibly worn bushes inside the forks. Have you checked the forks with a straight edge?

Ring around a few tyre dealers/fitters and see which ones will do it but do it quickly. If there is a nail or something in it, it can move around and damage the inside of the tire. I had a nail that had been rubbing on the inside of the tyre wall. It would have been repairable if I had caught it earlier

Get a socket rail or socket tray. Only a few pounds but you get all sockets on there in size order and can easily identify anything missing.

I have some halfords pro deep 3/8 drive sockets that I used on an air gun every day for a couple of years (not recommended) as well as everyday normal use for a good few years after that and took some serious punishment. They chipped the chrome but otherwise are still fine. I tend to use a 3/8 drive ratchet and sockets most but I also have 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4 inch ones. I tend to use the half inch only for anything over 19mm as it gives more leverage (and bigger sockets tend to be 1/2 inch drive). The 1/4 drive set is normally used for anything under 10mm. If I were starting out buying tools again and I was on a tight budget, I would get a reasonably priced (not cheap) 1/2 drive set that did say, 10mm - 27mm and a cheapish 1/4 drive set. A decent set of spanners, screwdrivers, allen keys and pliers would also be a must. There are numerous other tools that would be handy but this would be the basic essential tools.

I tried to post this on your blog but it didn't work. It's on the suzuki fiche as a circuit breaker

No idea but this may help http://wiseco.com/PDFs/Manuals/RingEndGap.pdf

I use a syringe (borrowed from work) with a bit of tube on it. Measure from the end of the tube, a distance equal to the air gap and mark the tube with a line. Once the correct amount of oil has been put in, pump the fork inners a few times to get the oil in and the air out. Before you put the springs back, compress the outer (this is true on my bikes but don't know if it's true on all bikes) and put tube into fork leg until mark is flush with the top and draw out excess oil. If you want a proper tool for this there are plenty of cheaper ones about like http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Motion-Pro-Fork-Oil-level-tool-Gauge-meter-/190438226783?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c5700bb5f

Performance bike this month has an article about spraying track bodywork with spray cans. They reckon 400ml of paint covers 3 square metres but obviously depends how many coats are required and spraying technique. It's on page 128 of Dec issue (out today I think)

It sounds possible that when they took the tank off they didn't refit a vacuum pipe properly. Worth having a quick look under the tank to see

Certainly sounds like the clutch. Are you pulling it right back to the bars? If so I would try adjusting the cable (presuming it's cable operated). Screw out the adjuster on the lever a little bit and try again. If this doesn't work then the clutch may be worn.

My immobiliser tends to drain the battery if left for a couple of weeks. The last couple of years I have had it on a trickle charger all the time. I rarely use that bike and it keeps the battery tip top.

often twisting the hose gently with a pair of pliers will break the "seal" and make them easier to remove.