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scrowe

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About scrowe

  • Birthday 30/12/1976

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  • Location
    York

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  • Interests
    Bikes, Boats, Film, My daughter

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  1. BANG ON! liz and john (think thats their names, been bout 10 years since i had contact) will see you right. they won't be able to tell you how much training you need exactly at the cbt point but most people can get through the das with 3-5 days of training on one of their gs500's. they are good though, got me through with 2 1/2 days but i'd been riding 125 for 18 months up untill that point.
  2. on a gsxr i had they just popped in to place with no sealer.
  3. i used to have a tw years ago, was a right giggle bombing across fields (legaly ocifer).
  4. those me old mate are your chain adjusters. no they shouldn't be loose. otherwise the axle can move backwards and forwards on the swingarm putting more stress on the chaindrive. as you accelarate the chain at the top get tight and pulls towards the bike on one side dragging the axle out of alignment so twisting the chain in the sideway axis and the whole wheel won't be lined up straight in the swing arm. this over time will knacker your chain, sprocket, cush drive and possibly bearings. asidee from that the bike will crab down the road with the back end slightly out to the right while riding in a straight line. there should be 2 nuts on that bolt at the end that do up together to stop them undoing. 1 does the adjustment and the 2nd tightens up behind the first to lock it. hope this helps. By the way is that a TW125?
  5. scrowe

    acf-50

    another product worth using is scotoiler fs365 spray. it nutralizes salt and leaves a good barrier against dirt. it's water based so it dries on a hot engine but is easy to wash of.
  6. i dont think its even about saving lives. i recon its about filling the coffers wi cash!! thats it nothing more.
  7. between the DSA and the Government they are really f**king things up for new bikers. i really feel for new bikers doing there test, it's so hard now and you wait so long to get a test with a low chance of a 1st time pass then the pull this shit and delay you even further (and you've paid for it too!!!). all you can do is stick with it. just be patient. i hope when ur test does come round you nail it so you can get out on the road! it will be worth the wait in the end. chin up mate!
  8. There is another option. go to M&P and for about £40 you can get some bar risers that bolt on to the top yolk ans allow fitment of drag bars. the bars you have are bolt ons so if you are handy (or have a mate that is) you could trim off the bar risers you have that rise from the bolt plates and then bolt on the riser from M&P for the flat bar. another option looking at the photo a bit closer is fabricated 2 base plates the same shape as the bases of the existing bars and attach the risers to them so they bolt straight on to where the old bars bloted on to the yolk! just a bit of billet aluminium and a drill could make something looking really smart and still using the same bolts and original yolk! £40-£80 would do it! it's a bit of work but done right won't cost the earth and all polished up would look the mutts!
  9. either way, it works mr pedantic! lol
  10. there other options that may be cheaper the a new exhaust. 1/ you can get at nearly all shops like halfords a freeze spray. if there is any of the bolt still sticking out of the holes you can spray it, the area around the bolt will expand in the cold and then get some molegrips on the studs. i had to do it with snapped studs on my manifold. 2/ eastouts are a drill bit with a reverse thread. you take a tiny dill bit and drill a pilot hole down the centre of the snapped bolt. the easy out will reverse screw in to the piolt hole and undo. wd40 will help alot. it's a bit time consuming but a load cheaper than new exhausts. hope this helps.
  11. sporry to be blunt but If you've got money to burn then fine! it's a total waste of time and effort on a 4stroke 125 that you can't tune or up performance buy ant real amount. basic maths will do just fine like the rest of us do on pretty much every factory machine on the plannet! if it were a gsxr1000 or an blade then yeah spend the money, get it mapped, bore it out or bolt on nitrous then the unit could be usefull. your better off spending the money on new helmet or traing to get ur das.
  12. I have both fuel guage and a trip on the VFR. on previous bikes just the trip. i allways reset trip regardless. The minute it gets to 170 miles i look for a fill up that way i know i have about 25-30 miles left. you don't need a fuel guage if you do that. most fuel guages arn't 100% accurate any way. When i fill up and ride 85 miles my guage still reads full! then it'll drop like a stone! use it as an indicator, nothing more. the only real method is the trip and to "look in the hole" on the tank if you can! if you see the petty you're ok!
  13. all through the summer i wear short gloves and it's mint, a bit more air, granted they are thinner summer richa items wi carbon knuckles but it's no different. i've allways found it better to go shopping for gloves and take the jacket you'll wear with you to make sure you the right cuff though. i have 4 jackets, 2 leather, 2 textile and each one has it's own pair of gloves so whatever the weather i've got something suitable, rain, cold, boiling hot and somewhere in between. invest in a mix of clothing if you can over a period of time and you'll never get caught out unexpectedly.
  14. havo you looked at the sparkplug and cap?
  15. when you swapped the pads over did you pop out a caliper piston? in fact did any brake fluid come out from anywhere? if so you will need to bleed the lines. bit of a pig of a job but will need doing if you want to stop. can you plull the lever back to the handle bar? if there is pressure and the lever wont compress all the way down you may just need to clean up the calipers and pistons.
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