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Diary of buying a used 14yo Triumph Sprint 955i


leener
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The Triumph Sprint saga continues. Never again will I ever purchase another Triumph - at least of over ten years old.


So far, it has been an ongoing issue with various running symptoms.


APRIL 2017:

- I purchased the 955i RS with the glorious 120hp triple engine, for just over £1k. It ran "okay" but not perfect.

- With the (gratefully received) help from Tango, we worked out that the fuel map was incorrect. I now have the correct fuel map loaded.

JUNE 2017:

- Bike continued to run seemingly well, although fuel gauge doesn't work.


MAY 2017:

- Ran out of fuel on the M5.


AUGUST 2017:

- I found issues with a low idle and the bike cutting out a few times when dis-engaging the clutch, while riding. Idle would go below 1000rpm, before rising gradually - if it didn't cut out.


SEPTEMBER 2017:

- The bike's stator failed and I replaced it. I suspected the low idle and cutting out was related as symptoms had worsened.

- Battery and charging system perfect, but noticing it get harder to start in the mornings, plus still having idle issues.

- Read up about tight valves and couldn't find any evidence of valve clearances in the service history.


OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2017:

- Checked valve clearances, with some helpful advice from megawatt. Clearances were well in spec, but found oil leak in cylinder 1's spark plug tower.

- Suspect oil was coming from top of spark plug tower, so replaced rocker gasket and plug tower seals.

- Compression tested all three: 1 = 170, 2 = 190, 3 = 160 (from memory, it was something like that)

- Rode it to work this morning and idle is horribly low, and was a nightmare to start. It hasn't cut out while riding, today.

- Need to check if the oil is again pooling in the spark plug chambers, as could result in having to check valve stem seals, and further leak-down tests

- I started suspecting that the fuel pump or injectors were a likely cause.

- Remembered running out of fuel on the M5 and that is when the problems seemed to start happening...


Next up - replace the fuel pump:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fuel-Pump-Triumph-Sprint-955i/dp/B01AW946X0

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It's a 14year old bike, things will need a little attention.. nothing to do with being a triumph!


Do clutchless gear changes so you don't let the revs drop between gears.


Your problems don't sound that bad tbh.

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No more old bikes... I had a kwak that was a million times worse, that I got for £400, only because the entire loom was rigged with problems (as I found out after I butchered it)... And a Honda Fireblade 900RR that somebody decided to "rebuild", which was £1000... That thing was rigged with more problems than I can mention.


I'll be going for something much newer next time.

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You ran out of fuel on the M5? Didn't tell me that. Drain tank, remove and clean fuel tap and filter, rinse out tank with fresh fuel. Check fuel route through pump up to injectors. Thoroughly clean and check everything.

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You ran out of fuel on the M5? Didn't tell me that. Drain tank, remove and clean fuel tap and filter, rinse out tank with fresh fuel. Check fuel route through pump up to injectors. Thoroughly clean and check everything.

 

That's what happens if you ride with the tap already on reserve. Not really Triumph's fault.

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I've owned a lot of fuel injected bikes and not one of them had a reserve tap. They all had a warning light.


Running out of fuel is usually due to one of three things.



You ignored the light. Or... The bulb has blown and so doesn't come on. Or... The sensor in the tank is faulty.

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Fuel gauge doesn't work because (as I found when I decided to mechanic my own bike) that one of the wires was out of the bottom of the sender, under the tank. As in, the psychical sender component that should have its usual two wires that protrude from out of the rubber, underneath - one came out. You would need to either be a soldering magician to re-attach them without destroying the sender, or replace the entire component. And, as I'm a cheapskate, I left it. The bike was sold to me with the problem, so I learnt the hard way.

I was used to commuting in my car, doing nearly 100 miles a day, and filling up ever few days, or so...

The bike doesn't quite have the same range as my diesel car, so entirely my fault. I tried three days of commuting on a tank (note - you can't tell how much fuel is in the bike... You rely on the "oh sh*t" light, which now stays on because of the fault). Stuck on the M5 near Stroud at 8:30am wasn't funny... unless you are one of my colleagues, who found it hilarious!!! :evil: Could have been worse... It was summer and a nice sunny day.

Now I fill up £10 every morning before I go up the M5. That way, I never run out. The garage staff get worried if I don't turn up.


That's my theory on why the fuel pump may be a problem. You let them run dry then they can die. And, even if it isn't - the bike is getting on and I should change it as a matter of course. This bike has to carry my fat bottom for tens of thousands of miles a year, and it has to be up to the job.


Fuel pump is in the post (£20), so as soon as that turns up then I will be fitting it.

... Should really get a filter, too...


Hopefully, this can turn into a "nice" diary, soon.


But, my days of old bikes are through. And, if I do take another one as my steed of choice, it will be a beautiful 900RR classic, which I will go over every nut and bolt before I use it regularly.

Riding the Sprint feels a bit like Russian roulette. Maybe I'll get home, and maybe I won't.

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I zonk to Cheltenham every day, from Bristol. And, gym, and shops. All in, my bike hauls me around 100 miles a day on weekdays.

Usually, the fuel is around £13 a day.


I might try to fix it this weekend, if I can find something to drain the fuel into.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's fixed, at last. New fuel pump helped, but in the end, it was clogged injectors, caused by running out of fuel. I went the extra measure of cleaning the fuel tank. Lots of crud had developed inside the base.

I also managed to fix the fuel sender, soldering on new wires. No more running out of fuel... Or at least a warning first.

Heated grips are on, and test ride went perfect, aside from the nob heads who are on four wheels, and are totally brain dead imbeciles, and don't give way... Ever.

Scared myself a little, as it was straight up to sixty in first, without hesitation. Sounded mean as ever.

After several weeks in the car, it's time to get back on the noble steed.


Thanks to everyone who helped me getting it fixed, with all your advice. Especially thanks to megawatt :cheers:

 

20171209_145739.thumb.jpg.4dd3bfb457cf1757493028c7089fe322.jpg

 

Screenshot_2017-12-09-16-17-02.thumb.png.7a1e5d3a0ec01abbdc076a38d2f40180.png

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Glad you got it sorted, mate......just goes to show that running out of fuel on an old bike is not a good move...... :wink: :lol: :lol:

 

Absolutely. Bleeding thing kept telling me after I let it run dry in June, or whenever. All I should have done was put two and two, and started on the fuel system.

Oh well. I learnt a lot out of it.

I did valve clearances for the first time, changed a fuel pump, and all the rest. Runs as set as a nut.

Only thing is... It's only gone and started snowing, hasn't it?

Sake... :?


The old Peugeot 306 with the zzr600 ignition might be a good idea, instead of the bike, tomorrow. Its 100 miles, to and fro to work. By the morning, it will be ice. Or do I have balls of steel...

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had an old Triumph (pre 2000, old for me) and it was a lovely bike so fair play for getting it sorted and running.


Only annoyance I found was the battery went flat easily and I found myself charging it often.


Might have been me, but worth keeping an eye on!

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It was running well, and gradually got symptoms back. I changed the spark plugs again to find that cylinder 1 is still getting fouled and filled with oil - only this time it is apparent that the oil is coming up from the cylinder, and not from the spark plug towers.

A compression test could be done on a cold engine, however the oil had pooled on top of the piston during the time where the bike was stationary, and would not give any real clue as to the source of the leak. After warming up the bike, blue smoke threw up, and oil burnt away, leaving the bike to run semi-normally again. The compression was a little low and not great. Cylinder 2 had high compression of about 190, but 1 was around the 120-130 mark, with cylinder 3 not much better. With the advice you gave me (megawatt) I suspect that the piston rings need changing, but need a thorough check.

I will need to buy a new head gasket and micrometre, before stripping the head off, and checking the pistons over. I will also need to inspect the valve trains to inspect for a leak, and possibly replace stem seals.


Big job coming up!

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I'd do the whole lot, all stem seals as they are cheap as chips mate.


Change the rings in cylinder 1, and if you've got any spare cash, go to a good machine shop to have them check and hone the cylinder. Will ensure the life of the new rings. :)

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A leak down test will tell you whether it's rings, valves or seals that are leaking. I've got one, but still need a compressor.

Remind me where you are mate?

 

Miles away from you, I think. At the moment I am living in Bristol.

I suspected rings because (from memory) the compression was slightly higher on cylinder 1 when it was a cold engine (when oil had settled on top of the piston). But, I am still only theorising until I get a chance to take a proper look. It looks like I need a good weather day to do it, because I have no garage.

Working on it is nothing short of a nightmare. I have had to throw covers over it at a moments notice, because it starts raining. Then wait, sometimes an entire day until I can even go outside again.

Also, need to make sure I keep the cams safe, keep the engine bolts in the same order (cardboard template), and all the other bits, with a busy house, where things go missing all of the time. I ended up keeping all my tools in the car!

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