2011 YBR cutting out

I have a 2011 ('11 plate) Yamaha YBR 125, and despite not having it for very long at all, I already have an issue... it's cutting out before I can get anywhere!

When turning the key in the ignition, the neutral and engine lights come on, and the latter goes out after a second or two. The engine starts when I press the starter button. However, when I pull the clutch in (I've been holding it in in case of false neutrals anyway) and select a gear, the engine cuts out immediately and the engine light blinks twice.

If I then put it back into neutral and start it back up, it starts fine, only for the cycle to repeat itself.

I know YBRs have an existing issue with the fuel pump or something, but apparently that's a warm weather issue - the UK in January is not warm!

Any hints or advice? Greatly appreciated!

*Edit: Just for variety, I tried to select gear WITHOUT pulling in the clutch. As I'd expect, it lurched forwards and stalled. When I try and use the clutch, it doesn't jump forward.

Check the sidestand is up........or, if it is, check the sidestand switch......this is a safety device to stop you riding off with the stand down.....

that flash is an engine management code for something, although buggered if i can find what it is on the internet or the haynes (i had a YBR 125 for a while, so had the haynes).

ring up your local yamaha dealer, who will be able to tell you what the code corresponds with.

edit: adding helpful information!

+1 to what Tango said, sounds bang on the money to me.

+2....What tango said

Should have added, but i'd side with tango... probably something to do with the side stand.

Just tried again. It was the side stand

Humbly in your debt... thanks!

Just tried again. It was the side stand

Humbly in your debt... thanks!

You're not the first mate.........and I very much doubt you'll be the last.......

Hi there,

A newbie here. I've just bought a YBR and it's quickly turned into a nightmare in itself (I'm going to start my own separate thread)

But in regard to a starting issue stemming from the side stand switch, where is the side stand switch found? Probably a really dumbass question but again, newbie.

Hi there,

A newbie here. I've just bought a YBR and it's quickly turned into a nightmare in itself (I'm going to start my own separate thread)

But in regard to a starting issue stemming from the side stand switch, where is the side stand switch found? Probably a really dumbass question but again, newbie.

Welcome to TMBF mate.....pop over to the newbies section and introduce yourself to the guys when you can......

Not a dumb question at all.....never be afraid to ask anything you're not sure about on here......

Anyway, the sidestand switch is normally mounted around the pivot point for the sidestand.....normally a black plastic square with a wire or 2 coming out of it and a plunger that is operated by the stand itself.....

Hiya not to smart with the ybr but just bought the ybr fuel injected 125 and it seem to cut out while changing down gear or just on deceleration and seems to flash 3 fast times on engine management?

Any help would be really appreciated?

Would recommend reading the above for solutions. How is the petrol/fuel filter?

Hi.

I've just bought a YBR Custom 2014 injection. I have the same problem as above but the sidestand switch is working perfectly.

Has anybpdy any ideas as to where the other end of the switch goes so I can test for continuity etc.?

Ta in advance.

Hi.

I've just bought a YBR Custom 2014 injection. I have the same problem as above but the sidestand switch is working perfectly.

Has anybpdy any ideas as to where the other end of the switch goes so I can test for continuity etc.?

Ta in advance.

Is the bike in gear? Is the neutral light on? For the bike to start it has to either be in neutral. Or if it's in gear the side stand has to be up and the clutch lever pulled in.

Sorry I thought I had mentioned that the engine starts but cuts out when a gear is selected.

The stand is up and the switch is closing the connection (tested with a multi meter.)

The wires have both been tested as far as the conector next to the battery after which it disappears into the loom under the tank.

There are no breaks in the insulation.

What I want to know is:

Where do the wires connect to at the other end?

What else can cause the engine to cut out when a gear is selected and the stand is up.

Cheers.

I don't have the wiring diagram for your bike so I can't say for sure but typically when the side stand is up, ground goes from the side stand to the ignition switch, then from the ignition switch to the ecu. So if the side stand is up and ignition switch is on there should be a ground at the ecu. If that ground isn't making it back to the ecu, the bike will cut out when it's put in gear because it thinks the side stand is still down. If you can post the correct wiring diagram I should be able to tell you for sure or someone else will.

If you want to do a quick test you could unplug the side stand switch and jump the connector with a bit of wire. That will be the same as the side stand being up all the time. If the bike works with the jumper wire the side stand switch is the fault. If it still doesn't work there's a different fault like a broken wire

As I stated in my last post. I have tested the switch with a multimeter and it makes the connection when the stand is up and breaks it when it's down.

Even so I have shorted the switch out at the connectors next to the battery and the engine still cuts out when selecting a gear.

Two things to check then, check if you've got continuity between one side of the side stand switch and ground. And check if you've got continuity between the opposite side of the side stand switch and one of the terminals at the ignition switch connector. The only possibility that makes sense is there is an open either between the side stand switch and ground or the side stand switch and before where it joins with the neutral switch. Because they join together and your neutral switch circuit is working, so everywhere after that join has to be good. Which isolates the side stand part of that circuit as being faulty. If you want more specific details than that put up the correct wiring diagram.

Sadly I don't have the workshop manual. nor do I have any wiring diagrams.

The multimeter registers a connection to ground though.

I think I have already concluded that the connection to the neutral circuit, or from the neutral circuit to the ECU must be the issue, but I can't find any info on Google about the ECU pinouts, or where the wires terminate so I can find where the issue lies.

I have read about a diode in the circuit somewhere. Could this be the problem?

If it could be, where is it?

Thanks for the replies people. Hopefully we can help others that may have the same issue by solving this one.

Should I be seeing a voltage at the switch because there isn't one?

Cheers

The bike starts in neutral so the neutral circuit is working. When you take it out of neutral the ground to the ecu comes from the side stand circuit. The side stand circuit is what's at fault. You can confirm it by checking continuity between the ignition switch connector and the side stand connector because on any bike I've had the neutral and side stand circuits join together and then go to the ignition switch and then from the ignition switch to the ecu.

You don't have a wiring diagram so you don't know what wire in the ignition switch connector is the correct one to test so you'll have to work it out. You know the neutral circuit is working so use that to work what wire is the correct one. What I'd do it turn the ignition off and put the bike in neutral. With your meter attach the black probe to the neutral switch connector and touch the red probe to each wire in the ignition switch connector. The meter probes have to be connected that way because there's a diode in the circuit. You will have continuity between the neutral switch and one of the wires in the ignition connector. When you find the wire that has continuity keep the probes connected and put the bike in gear. If you're on the correct wire in the ignition connector you will lose continuity when you put the bike in gear. When you find the correct wire leave the red probe in the ignition connector and touch the black probe to the side stand connector. On a good side stand circuit you will have continuity when the side stand is up and no continuity when the side stand is down. If there's an open in the side stand circuit you will see no continuity no matter what position the side stand is in. That will confirm the problem is an open in the side stand circuit between the side stand switch and where it joins to the neutral circuit.

Sadly I don't have the workshop manual. nor do I have any wiring diagrams.

The multimeter registers a connection to ground though.

I think I have already concluded that the connection to the neutral circuit, or from the neutral circuit to the ECU must be the issue, but I can't find any info on Google about the ECU pinouts, or where the wires terminate so I can find where the issue lies.

I have read about a diode in the circuit somewhere. Could this be the problem?

If it could be, where is it?

Thanks for the replies people. Hopefully we can help others that may have the same issue by solving this one.

Yes there's a diode in the neutral circuit and one in the side stand circuit. If the one in the side stand circuit was open it could be the problem.

Should I be seeing a voltage at the switch because there isn't one?

Cheers

No

If you can't find the correct wire in the ignition connector with the multimeter you could push a bit of wire into the back of the neutral switch connector and ground it to the frame. That would mean the ecu gets it's ground through the neutral circuit even when it's in gear and the side stand is down. If it runs now when you put it in gear you know for sure the side stand circuit is the problem and that it's open. Don't ride the bike with the neutral switch grounded, it's just for testing to figure out the fault.

Try putting the stand up with some force!