Clutch slack not o.k?

After changing my clutch plates, my lever was pretty loose, after adjusting it it would start and then stall.

I tried to re adjust my slack al the way to the back at the bottom adjuster, it starts now but when putting it in 1st it would roll forward, what am i doing wrong?

How much slack have you got at the lever before you can feel it pull on the clutch?

How much slack have you got at the lever before you can feel it pull on the clutch?

About the same when it did worked, although it gets alot more stiff when almost pulled in al the way

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Well if you are getting drag after changing the clutch plates you are either not getting enough pull on the clutch so you have too much slack or there is a problem in the clutch pack itself

Well if you are getting drag after changing the clutch plates you are either not getting enough pull on the clutch so you have too much slack or there is a problem in the clutch pack itself

I think its the clutch pack itself then, thanks

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Did you soak the clutch plates in oil ?

Did you make sure the alternating pattern with clutch plates and pressure plates ?

Have you followed the correct adjustment method.

ON most bikes you slacken the cable right off.

Then on many bikes (not all), there is an adjusting screw and locknut, undo the locknut, adjust screw out, then in until you feel resistance, backout 1/4 turn, tighten locknut. Now you can set the cable adjustment, at handlbar end fully screwed in, adjust at gearbox end untill end of lever has 15mm play (you have short levers so 10mm may be better).

Have you followed the correct adjustment method.

ON most bikes you slacken the cable right off.

Then on many bikes (not all), there is an adjusting screw and locknut, undo the locknut, adjust screw out, then in until you feel resistance, backout 1/4 turn, tighten locknut. Now you can set the cable adjustment, at handlbar end fully screwed in, adjust at gearbox end untill end of lever has 15mm play (you have short levers so 10mm may be better).

only on worm drive actuators and looking at the top pic its not a worm drive actuator

Did you soak the clutch plates in oil ?

Did you make sure the alternating pattern with clutch plates and pressure plates ?

Yep......did you soak the plates in oil overnight before fitting them?

Did you soak the clutch plates in oil ?

Did you make sure the alternating pattern with clutch plates and pressure plates ?

Yep......did you soak the plates in oil overnight before fitting them?

In did soak Them yeah for about 15 hours. Is also put the friction plates and steel plates alternating

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Did you soak the clutch plates in oil ?

Did you make sure the alternating pattern with clutch plates and pressure plates ?

Yes

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That looks like a non-standard lever......have you tried it on 6?......maybe it's hitting the bars before the clutch is fully disengaged. .....

Decided to give it another go, in the situation with these photos the bike wont start at all. When i put the adjuster all the way to the end (Bottom adjuster) it wil start but when putting it in first Gear it Will already start to roll forward. I also noticed that my cable is a little bit frayed near the handlebar, anyone know how to go from here? I think moving the Bottom adjuster more Will help but it is already at his maximum point.

In that photo the bottom adjuster isn't at the max adjustment?

In that photo the bottom adjuster isn't at the max adjustment?

No i turned it back to see if that would work

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Was it working ok before you messed with the clutch?

Not changed another part?

Was it working ok before you messed with the clutch?

Not changed another part?

You mean before i changed clutch plates? Yes it did

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In the second set of pictures you have even more slack than in the first so the clutch is going to drag even more. You don't want any slack at all because because taking up the slack is just a waste of lever movement. What you want is a kind of neutral state where cable is neither slack nor tight. If none of this works I would start over again and re fit the clutch making sure that every friction and steel plate is in the correct order and all other parts are correctly installed.A new cable definitely seems like a good idea if it's frayed it's going to snap soon anyway. Keep at it.