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Mosfet regulator/rectifier


Stephen Dunn
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I wonder if anyone can help. I have a Triumph Daytona 955 i 2006 and have had problems with it melting the main 30 amp fuse. The rectifier and wiring upgrade to FH012AA Standard model mosfet was done by the previous owner in 2012. But I have only owned the bike a few months and it is melting the main fuse. Could this rectifier need replacing again as it gets hot but not to burning stage, is it supposed to get hot? I have only recently purchased a motorbike again after 30 years on 4 wheels so very unsure about these things. I would appreciate any advise possible. I believe these are universal not specific for Triumph. Many thanks.

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You will have to check to see how much charge it's putting out


As a general rule you get melting components when you have a high resistance this can be caused by a bad connection or corrosion

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We have tried it again with another fuse and removed the pillion seat and done about 15 miles and it hasn't melted the fuse. It was hot the rectifier but not boiling and it doesn't have a high output reading. So I'm wondering if it is definitely the rectifier that is the problem. Thankyou

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I had a replacement Reg/rec go on my Sprint ST 1050 when I had it.....and this was taking the main fuse out......changed the Reg/rec and it was sorted....... :wink:


Apparently the mod to do, is to replace the MOSFET Shunt regulator with a series regulator.....The Shindengen SH847 seems to be the preferred one......but they're not cheap.......seems that these are fitted to some models of Suzuki Versys 1000......I think I saw a German store on eBay selling converter cables for Triumphs to fit these Regs...... :wink:

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Yeah a series one is the way to go, nicer on the stator too, it doesn't run it at full wack all the time.


I have a FH012AA on my bike and I'm not sure if it's ever gotten hot, it's too tucked away. Barely got warm after idling for 10mins though, not that that's much to go on.


If you've checked the voltage and you get about 14v then the R/R is likely fine so the problem is with the melty the main fuse, it might be that the fuse/fuse holder has a bit of corrosion on it, as mentioned, so resistance is high and it gets hot and melts (it is just melting and not blowing right?). I'd check if the fuse is getting warm. I've had it before where the connections have gotten warm, it's a sign of a bad connection/crimping, or that the connection type is over its limit.


To solve it you will either need clean up the fuse holder and use a new fuse (could be dodgy terminals or dodgy crimping).


Or replace the fuse holder, as it'll probably be a bugger to clean up any better than by just re-inserting a fuse a few times with some wd40 stuff, but that might just do the trick.


Or take the fuse holder out of the equation and run a bit of fused cable direct from the +12v output of the R/R to the battery.

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