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Scary noise from transmission+ locking of rear wheel


erllar
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Hi, i have a Suzuki GSX 600 F 1996, and i was on a ride where i was accelerating and was closing in on the red, suddenly i jumped to full revs (14000rpm). After that i heard a clunking noise from straight under me (near trans), i stopped and found out it only happens when the bike is moving. When getting it home to my garage i noticed the rear wheel locking up. Checked clutch, chain, and changed front sprocked ( to a used one from my part bike, was better but not perfect) but no change. As i watched the inside gearbox/clutch area while moving bike, i could see the inner part (that is supposed to move when in neutral). It seems to be snagging on something (or what you would say), and it goes from a small jitter (with sound) to a full stop. Bike can not go backwards when in gear(even with clutch in), just locks up rear wheel. all gears works fine.


i hope you forgive my godawful English and hope one of you could help me figure out my next steps.


thanks in advance


Erllar

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I'm sorry to say that this sounds like a major gearbox failure. Your going to have to open it up to find out. I wouldn't ride it or even start it if I were you. On the plus side you mentioned that you have a parts bike so a gearbox swap may be possible.

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Hi Mate, you say all gears work fine, but rear wheel locks up! but won't move backwards without wheel locking. have you tried to leave it in neutral and then roll it backwards, because it sounds like your rear brake pads have dislodged inside rear caliper, hence the noise when turning, I would check the state of rear pads.

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Hi Mate, you say all gears work fine, but rear wheel locks up! but won't move backwards without wheel locking. have you tried to leave it in neutral and then roll it backwards, because it sounds like your rear brake pads have dislodged inside rear caliper, hence the noise when turning, I would check the state of rear pads.

 

This doesn't explain the sudden jumping out of gear to full revs followed by a noise from the transmission. But it could be a preexisting separate problem with the rear caliper.

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I'm sorry to say that this sounds like a major gearbox failure. Your going to have to open it up to find out. I wouldn't ride it or even start it if I were you. On the plus side you mentioned that you have a parts bike so a gearbox swap may be possible.

 

Yes, it may be, was just hoping it would not come to that as i am quite inexperienced and that could be too much for me too handle

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Hi Mate, you say all gears work fine, but rear wheel locks up! but won't move backwards without wheel locking. have you tried to leave it in neutral and then roll it backwards, because it sounds like your rear brake pads have dislodged inside rear caliper, hence the noise when turning, I would check the state of rear pads.

 

Maybe i was not clear, when in neutral i can roll it backwards, also, before i started it after having it sit in my garage for a month it did not make any noise or have any problems rolling it the 10m i had before having to start it.

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Its not a sprocket nut hanging off by any chance?

 

unfortunatly no, we checked sprockets and chain, including nuts. also changed front sprocket as it was quite bad (took the one from my parts bike)

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IS the chain defo ok?

 

Hi, we checked the chain and the sprockets, not sure what a chain defo is tho

 

Defo is slang for definitely

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I'm sorry to say that this sounds like a major gearbox failure. Your going to have to open it up to find out. I wouldn't ride it or even start it if I were you. On the plus side you mentioned that you have a parts bike so a gearbox swap may be possible.

 

Yes, it may be, was just hoping it would not come to that as i am quite inexperienced and that could be too much for me too handle

Well I can tell you that the first time I split the crankcase of my previous GSXR 1100 I was shitting myself but if you work methodically, make notes , take photos and bag and label everything this is something you can achieve. You could cut some corners as well such as leaving the clutch basket in place . Plus if you remove the gearbox from the spares bike first you will know what to expect when you go in on your other bike. If you're careful with the clutch gasket you could get away with reusing it so all you will have to buy is a tube of Suzukibond or a similar and cheaper jointing compound. Oh and a really good torque wrench.

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Well I can tell you that the first time I split the crankcase of my previous GSXR 1100 I was shitting myself but if you work methodically, make notes , take photos and bag and label everything this is something you can achieve. You could cut some corners as well such as leaving the clutch basket in place . Plus if you remove the gearbox from the spares bike first you will know what to expect when you go in on your other bike. If you're careful with the clutch gasket you could get away with reusing it so all you will have to buy is a tube of Suzukibond or a similar and cheaper jointing compound. Oh and a really good torque wrench.

 

All of this! I'd say if you could afford it, get all new gaskets and seals, they shouldn't be too expensive and the last thing you want really is to get it back together to find that a joint has failed somewhere and you need to re do all your hardwork. If its apart and you can get the spares just swap any and all seals you find. A bit of research online and you'll be able to find all the stuff you need.


The first time I stripped an engine down I felt the same, but its not difficult when you get stuck into it. What makes it difficult is when something goes wrong (which is when you come back and ask more questions) or when you don't have enough room for your stubby little sausge fingers (Curse you genes!!)


Oh and one more thing, before you start rebuilding make sure everything is given a damn good clean, especially sealing surfaces. A nice clean surface will mean a better seal and save time later.

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Well I can tell you that the first time I split the crankcase of my previous GSXR 1100 I was shitting myself but if you work methodically, make notes , take photos and bag and label everything this is something you can achieve. You could cut some corners as well such as leaving the clutch basket in place . Plus if you remove the gearbox from the spares bike first you will know what to expect when you go in on your other bike. If you're careful with the clutch gasket you could get away with reusing it so all you will have to buy is a tube of Suzukibond or a similar and cheaper jointing compound. Oh and a really good torque wrench.

 

All of this! I'd say if you could afford it, get all new gaskets and seals, they shouldn't be too expensive and the last thing you want really is to get it back together to find that a joint has failed somewhere and you need to re do all your hardwork. If its apart and you can get the spares just swap any and all seals you find. A bit of research online and you'll be able to find all the stuff you need.


The first time I stripped an engine down I felt the same, but its not difficult when you get stuck into it. What makes it difficult is when something goes wrong (which is when you come back and ask more questions) or when you don't have enough room for your stubby little sausge fingers (Curse you genes!!)


Oh and one more thing, before you start rebuilding make sure everything is given a damn good clean, especially sealing surfaces. A nice clean surface will mean a better seal and save time later.

The point I was actually making was that with the exception of the clutch cover gasket there are no other oil tight gaskets to replace. This is of course if you leave the top end untouched. The crankcase is joined metal to metal with a jointing compound. Definitely replace oil seals though.

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Depending on the state of the parts bike, it might be easier to just transfer the engine. I'd take the "broken" one out, put the spare one in, then open up the broken one to see what's wrong (at some point, it would probably go to the back of the garage). Of course, only worth it if you at least half trust the parts engine.


Edit: But actually I don't know the engine or how hard it is to get to the gearbox! I'm still thinking about looking at my vfr400 gearbox, which is a bit of a bugger, you have to split the engine cases vertically, with the engine upside down.

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The point I was actually making was that with the exception of the clutch cover gasket there are no other oil tight gaskets to replace. This is of course if you leave the top end untouched. The crankcase is joined metal to metal with a jointing compound. Definitely replace oil seals though.

 

Admittedly I probably read deeper into than you intended...I'm a pain for over thinking!! :cheers:

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Depending on the state of the parts bike, it might be easier to just transfer the engine. I'd take the "broken" one out, put the spare one in, then open up the broken one to see what's wrong (at some point, it would probably go to the back of the garage). Of course, only worth it if you at least half trust the parts engine.


Edit: But actually I don't know the engine or how hard it is to get to the gearbox! I'm still thinking about looking at my vfr400 gearbox, which is a bit of a bugger, you have to split the engine cases vertically, with the engine upside down.

 

Yep, that's also an option. The GSXR based family of bikes is much easier to to work on because the crankcase splits horizontally but all the manuals only cover a total strip starting with the top end so you have to figure how many corners you can cut just to get at the gear box . My guess is that the actual fault will be a bent or worn selector fork . Did this sudden increase in revs occur under hard acceleration as you changed up to second gear by any chance? If so this might be simpler and cheaper to fix than you think.

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