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Valve clearance question


rider555
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Hi


I have done valve clearance on my lexmoto xtrs today and taken out for ride, now I don't know if is just me or actually the bike feels it bit more nippy, looking on net spec was 0.05 for inlet end exhaust, when I checked I couldn't get feeler gauge in so there was very tight and most likely never adjusted, now I'm sure I did read somewhere that tight valves reduce engine performance across the rev range, is that true I ask because I just don't know.

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A tight valve will stick slightly open losing compression and also no doing the valve seats any good!


so you may well be running more power now!

 

Thanks for reply, will keep a eye out how it runs now, might strip the engine in December to have a look at the internals, Best £3.98 I spend on this bike so far :D

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Well done you. Valve clearances affect valve timing. More clearance is better than not enough.

 

As they say, a happy engine is a happy engine.

 

And a flappy tappet is a happy tappet.

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Sounds Ok now with out excessive tappy noise or rattle, this lexmoto have copy of CG engine, I found CG manual and they recommended valve clearance 0.08 but lexmoto website saying 0.05, also heard that some set exhaust side 0.15? I will stick with 0.05 on both sides for now but very interested what will happen when exhaust is set at 0.15? tap tap tap tap :D

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Well done you. Valve clearances affect valve timing. More clearance is better than not enough.

 

As they say, a happy engine is a happy engine.

 

And a flappy tappet is a happy tappet.

 

Ha ha - that's a new one I shall have to remember.

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Sounds Ok now with out excessive tappy noise or rattle, this lexmoto have copy of CG engine, I found CG manual and they recommended valve clearance 0.08 but lexmoto website saying 0.05, also heard that some set exhaust side 0.15? I will stick with 0.05 on both sides for now but very interested what will happen when exhaust is set at 0.15? tap tap tap tap :D

 

Valve clearance specifications can vary on the same engine / bike over successive years so if you've got the right details from the manufacturer for your year & model then stick with them. The CG manual may be referring to an earlier model. It's not unusual for the inlet & exhaust to be different but again that varies from year to year so stick with the specifications for yours.


If in doubt I always err on the side of slightly loose rather than too tight.

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I'm about to do mine (or try to) on my Sprint RS.

Never touched anything this technical before on any bike that I can remember, so will be fun.


Where do you even get the shims from? I was going to order from a supplier on eBay.


The bit that bothers me is that I have to leave the bike temporarily disassembled, maybe even for days until the new shims arrive, leaving it all sitting loose (half assembled), in the front garden.

At least it can't get nicked for a joy ride, in that state.


Yup, I have no garage.

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I'm in Bristol, Mangotsfield area. I was going to take the bike apart anyway, to start cleaning it up a bit, and fit the heated grips. But can almost guarantee that it'll rain. I watched a long tutorial on someone doing a Tiger 1050 engine, which looks more or less the same, in terms of what to do.

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They'll definitely be different to mine. Even the manual I have is probably different, so I have a big Haynes manual for the triple Sprint and Tiger 955i.


A guy up the road says he'll check the clearances - £100

Replace the shims, just the cost of the shims, and a bit of labour - he reckons maybe £40 for the shims, then whatever else. New seal - £30, and I have a new CCT spring for it. Saves me awkwardly trying to do it in the cold and wet.

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A guy up the road says he'll check the clearances - £100

Replace the shims, just the cost of the shims, and a bit of labour - he reckons maybe £40 for the shims,

 

:lol: :lol:


This made me chuckle!


so he is quoting you for shims that he doesn't know that need doing :lol:


I would steer clear!


Out of all the bikes I have had I checked the clearances every year as the bikes come apart over the winter I have only ever had to replace two shims!


one bike I owned for 8 years and over 35k covered by me and thats the bike I had to replace to two on which was when I first bought it

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He says about £6 each, so was guessing how many he might need to replace. Well, it's a place up here called 'Carters Bikes', he says... No sign of him on Google maps. Unit 12, BS15 4PW...


Yeah...


No idea, until I see him. Sounds a bit "iffy" to me, too.

Only reason I spoke with him was because I rang up TNR Motorcycles in Bristol to ask for a rough est, and the guy there said, "Oh, no. I don't do things like that (valve clearances), here... But, I'll put you onto a man who does. He's here at my workshop... I'll just put you on". No idea if he's legit, yet.


I'm certain they need doing. It's 34k and no evidence of the 24k one, anywhere. I brought it at 28k and now it's getting hard to start. Got nearly new plugs, air filter is clean, good fuel, no error codes, runs fine when engine is going, but just a pig to start.

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Everyone I know give you a price plus parts!


so they would say £100 to check and say £140 to adjust plus parts


so its £100 labour to check them


An extra £40 labour to adjust


Then the parts cost on top so if you needed 1 shim at £5 its £145 5 shims at £5 £165!


You get the idea :)


Maybe he meant that extra £40 to adjust then parts on top?

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Just found him:

https://www.facebook.com/CarterBikes?fref=ts


Seems legit, to me.


What I find annoying is when they go, "Yeah, £100 for this, £50 for that, and £20... Plus VAT... That's £4,285,495, please".


Are you somehow suggesting that I take on this wonderful task, myself? If I get the procedure right, it should be ok. I know, and understand every step involved, but what worries me is that I don't have a micrometre, so need to pick one up first, and second, the risk of the weather, and no cover. I'm actually tempted...

 

What Sort of Bike Mechanic dosnt do shims??????

 

TNR Motorcycles of Bristol... slowbusa... TNR doesn't... I went in there once for an oil filter, and it's a proper grotty place. Don't have a card machine, so all cash in hand.

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There is nothing more satisfying than doing a job yourself not only that you can do other jobs while in there!


I have always found the hardest part is lining up the rocker cover gasket especially if its one that sits in the rocker cover and falls out the moment you get near the engine with it :evil:

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Its more time consuming than actual work


If your happy taking cams out and re-timing them (after) then you have nothing to worry about and will get on fine


All you need to do is measure the gap between cam lobe and bucket with feeler gauges on all cylinders ....get a pen and paper ....go away and work out which shims you can swap for others to make up the right distances

Then buy the right shims to replace (I bet its less than 4)


The actual shims are SERIOUSLY tough and dont wear as easy as people think


I Always write down shims sizes per bucket number and location Before I start changing them.........If you stuff up...simple go back to where you started :D

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There is nothing more satisfying than doing a job yourself not only that you can do other jobs while in there!


I have always found the hardest part is lining up the rocker cover gasket especially if its one that sits in the rocker cover and falls out the moment you get near the engine with it :evil:

Very True &

I Also hate rocker cover gaskets :shock:

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In all honesty £100 just for check is not bad but at the same time quoting price for a job then saying is extra to adjust is silly unless the bloke reckons they won't need doing, so if you think £140 plus cost of new shims is not bad, looks like lot of work, there is video on youtube for Tiger 1050 not sure if yours is the same engine or not but is good guide what to expect.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5dgiD7k4po

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