st3v38772 Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Hi all.. im having real issues with the carbs on my zzr600. I have ridden my bike now practically everyday for the last 2 yrs and its never let me down once. However 6 weeks ago i went to get on it for my usual journey to work and it just didnt want to know.. Ive put new plugs in, ht leads, oil and fuel filter which got it to start just once.. ive since dismantled my carbs and cleaned them .. its starts everytime but wont tick over at all.. it will run if i keep the revs on but eventually dies off.. im at the end of what i can do.. does anyone have the magic formular for my problem. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowBusa Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 (edited) Hi and Welcome,Adjust your idle screw, its probably off now you have cleaned carbsIf its got a choke make sure you simply didnt reconnect it Edited December 30, 2017 by SlowBusa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Carb heater system working ok?........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megawatt Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Something blocked on the tick over circuit. Strip, clean, blow through both ways, rebuild, test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimR Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Zeds prone to carb icing as noted in colder tem0sCheck the carb rubbers are not perished or any of the rubber caps on the spigots on the rubbers are cracked /perished allowing an airleak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st3v38772 Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 Hi guys.. thanks for your replies but i think ive already done what youve all suggested. Im thinking just getting some new carbs may be my only option now.. can anyone suggest a reputable breaker i could try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 There shouldn't be any need for new carbs!If it's not running right then obviously you have a problem and carbs are fully rebuild able so no need to replace them Raise the tick over as suggested if it only runs for a while and still cuts out then you have another problem! It could be blocked fuel lines or tap not allowing enough fuel through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bianco2564 Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 Checked valve clearances?Compression test or leakdown?Blocked air filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 I'll go for a stuck open float valve , could be flooding at idle then picking up again when the excess fuel burns off . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st3v38772 Posted December 31, 2017 Author Share Posted December 31, 2017 Have any of you tried the american fuel treatment 'sea foam' is it worth having a go with that .. see if it clears any blockages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Snake oil ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 You could try a fuel level check but this only works if you have drain spouts on the bowls. Might be fiddly to do on the bike . Like this http://i.imgur.com/mVcBX6v.png Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st3v38772 Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 I dont think i have the option for this procedure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 I dont think i have the option for this procedure Shame , not all carbs allow you to do this . Nonetheless, you could still have a float valve not closing properly due to a fragment of dirt lodged behind the seat . The trouble with this situation is that if you remove the carbs and invert them the piece of dirt often vanishes back out of sight only to re appear when fuel flows again . A torch and a magnifying glass are useful here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st3v38772 Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Hi again.. it seems i do have the ability to try this however after work the dam thing wouldnt even start again. I think i may have found a further issue. I wanted to put a picture up on here but i cant seem to do it. Anyway ive looked at the CDI unit tonight and it looks like theres all gravel melted into. Im thinking this is not normal.. any more ideas guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 I wanted to put a picture up on here but i cant seem to do it. What are you struggling with? when you click on reply scroll down and you will see a part that says Attachments click on this and it gives you the option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st3v38772 Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 Is this CDI unit alive guys.. can it be tested some how Fried Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leener Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Looks like it's smuggling stones under it's skin.You can test them easily enough, using the Haynes Manual and the electrical tester. Just test the resistance between the pins. Look on YouTube - that should give you an idea.I paid about £30 on fleabay when my CDI went on the old ZZR600. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st3v38772 Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 So is this normal to look like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megawatt Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Nope. Looks fooked to me. I'd try a second hand one and check the wires from the alternator and battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 So is this normal to look like this Not normal at all, its encased in resin but yours seems to have melted . How on earth all the stones got mixed in I've no idea ! I've never seen anything like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Looks like it's smuggling stones under it's skin.You can test them easily enough, using the Haynes Manual and the electrical tester. Just test the resistance between the pins. Look on YouTube - that should give you an idea.I paid about £30 on fleabay when my CDI went on the old ZZR600. I would add that this means testing for resistance using the detailed procedure in the Haynes manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leener Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 Good idea to find out what caused it. Get your Haynes manual out and do the resistance test, and also might be a good idea to test your rectifier. And, check the wiring thoroughly from the battery. Something cooked it, I am guessing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st3v38772 Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Yes something has gone badly wrong.. only a week before she died i had to get new start stop cluster and new horn, high beam etc cluster as the insides of them had manged to get burnt out.. some little gremlin is running riot around my bike. Shame as shes otherwise in really good condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoggs Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I approve of the greeness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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