Suzuki GSX - Rear pads can't get pins out

I need to replace the rear pads om my GSX600F (Tokiko callipers).

Tried to remove the pins but they are corroded in.

The calliper looks like it needs an overhaul anyway so I have ordered a kit that includes all the seals and new pins and clips.

One of the seals is for the joint between the calliper halves.

Hence it looks like the best way to get the pins out is to cut through them in the middle.

Then seperate the two halves, hopefully then I can get at the pins ot remove them.

Anybody else done this?

split the caliper

Don't try and struggle getting the pins out if you are going to split them anyway

These are known for seizing

get the piston out before you split them too

I have still struggled to get the pin out even after splitting on these calipers soaking in release agent helps as does a touch of heat

Hence it looks like the best way to get the pins out is to cut through them in the middle.

 

Just re read and seen this!

There is no need to cut the pin just split the caliper and it will come apart leaving the pin more than likely stuck in the back part of the caliper

Thanks for your advice. I will try to seperate the calliper without cutting the pins.

I now have another problem, one of the caliper joint bolts is also siezed, hex has rounded off,

Hence looks like I will have to drill the head off.

New bolts ordered!

I spend a lot of time taking old cars to bits, so lots of seized things to play with. My usual approach is to dab some PlusGas onto whatever is stuck - most of the time that works by itself. If it doesn't I dab a bit more and then spray with WD40. WD40 is a disperant so it drives the PlusGas into whatever is seized. There have been very few things which haven't yielded to that approach. For rounded bolts there are a variety of methods but don't overlook the grip drive sockets and spanners B&Q sell. They don't get good reviews but my guess is the people using them think they are rachet drives or use them on the wrong sized nuts. They have small cams which grip the head rather than 'flats' as conventional sockets/spanners. I've had a few mangled heads that these have got out with a bit of care.

I spend a lot of time taking old cars to bits, so lots of seized things to play with. My usual approach is to dab some PlusGas onto whatever is stuck - most of the time that works by itself. If it doesn't I dab a bit more and then spray with WD40. WD40 is a disperant so it drives the PlusGas into whatever is seized. There have been very few things which haven't yielded to that approach. For rounded bolts there are a variety of methods but don't overlook the grip drive sockets and spanners B&Q sell. They don't get good reviews but my guess is the people using them think they are rachet drives or use them on the wrong sized nuts. They have small cams which grip the head rather than 'flats' as conventional sockets/spanners. I've had a few mangled heads that these have got out with a bit of care.

I won't be working on the calliper agian until the weekend, so I 'm applying plus gas regularly in the meantime to give it chance to soak in.

Unfortunately the grip drive sockets won't get enough purchase on the heads, The bolts are the shallow cap head type with rounded edges. Doesn't help that the hex size is small because of the head shape, 6mm for an M10 bolt!

Overhaul kit arrived to day, it includes new pins, so I have options available to get this sorted.

I had similar problems when I last did my front brakes. In the end, I drilled the 'bad' bolt and used a 'stub extractor' (using a blowlamp to heat the casing at the same time) - This worked (eventually).

The pin was still stuck in both halves of the caliper assembly and I did have to cut it to separate the two halves. Once separated, a mole grip on the exposed shaft of the pin got it out.

Everything else was a 'peice of cake'.

Don't forget to use copper grease (Copper Ease, ect.) on re-assembly so that next time it should be easier!

Remove rounded Allen bolt by hammering in a slightly too big torx bit.

Remove rounded Allen bolt by hammering in a slightly too big torx bit.

Being careful not to crack the cast caliper right

Not that I have seen it happen but just be aware that cast can crack and easier than other metals

Good point, I avoided hammering on the calliper.

Using a Trox hammered in does sometimes work, but the poblem with these bolts is the small HEX size.

Its only 6mm A/F for an M10 bolt because of the reduced head size.

Normally an M10 bolt has a 8mm A/F.

Done this loads of times and never cracked cast aluminium, ever. Especially as the shock load is on the steel bolt.

Done this loads of times and never cracked cast aluminium, ever. Especially as the shock load is on the steel bolt.

your not hitting it hard enough

Which is a good thing!

I have had other cast aluminium items crack