CBR600RR 04 46k Miles maintenance

Hi. I have today bought a 2004 CBR600RR which I intend on converting to a track bike. It does have high mileage at 46k miles and I have no history. I want to make sure it is mechanically sound. Is there anything I should carry out or replace on it at this mileage. I believe the cam chain needs tensioning as there is a rattle when revving from cold. Will check valve clearances, obvs oil filter changes, spark plugs etc. Any other recommendations? Much appreciated. Martin.

Hello and Welcome

Personally with a bike of that mileage and no history I would be looking at a full service including a valve clearance check

If it's rattling I would also look at replacing the tensioner and maybe the chain too

After all you will be screwing its arse around a track

As above really.

Drop the oil into a clean pan and remove the filter. Shine a bright LED torch into both looking for any metal shards and debris of any kind. If you find any report what you find back here.

The cam chain tensioners on Honda's are crap, they seem to be the weak point across most of the bigger CBR range. I had 2 go within 20,000 miles on my old CBR600F. One has gone on my Blackbird, and my old 2010 RR had one give up. So replace that and see if the rattle goes away before diving in with a cam chain replacement.

Also rattles can sometimes be oil struggling to get places when the engine is cold, mainly due to carbon build up in the top end blocking some of the little passages. At that mileage it could do with a clean up anyway.

Replace original auto tensioner with a manual one. Much more reliable and better for racing.

Get a leakdown test done on the engine.

Thank you for your advice. I’ll carry out everything you have suggested. The rattle went away once was warmed up. I’ll replace the cam chain and tensioner to the manual adjust type anyway.

Mine's a bit tappy when cold, I think it's just the valves are out and it comes into tolerance once warm. I'm not sure if that is your CCT, aren't they noisy through the rev range? However it really won't hurt to replace it because they are known to fail.*

Mine's 34k miles on the original though, typical life time is 25kish

Hi All.

I have bought a Haynes Manual and am currently checking the valve clearances. All are within tolerance apart from 1 exhaust valve

Spec for the exhaust valve clearance is 0.25mm-0.31mm. This valve is at 0.22mm. I attempting to remove the cam shaft holders and is proving to be a c**t. I’m undoing all the bolts in sequence but the holders aren’t coming away. I don’t want to pry at it with everything being ally.

Also it says in the manual to replace the spark plug seals, that are u see the cam holders, if removed. I can’t source these seals anywhere.

Getting to my question now.. Shall I torque back down and start on the rebuild, or does that 1 valve really need re-shimming?

Once it warms up that clearance can get tighter and hold it open and easily burn the valve out

Are you taking all the bolts out in sequence or just loosening them a bit at a time?

A bit at a time is best

Give the cam a tap at the end that's got valves open. Should move the caps.

Loosening about an 1/8 turn in sequence until they all became loose. The cam holders are all still down on cylinder head. I think I’m going to have to try some gentle persuasion... maybe in form of a 14lb hammer

When/if I get the cam holders off, do I NEED to replace the spark plug seals, as it says in the manual? If they look ok, can I reuse them? If I do need to replace them, can someone let me know where to get them from.

Thanks. But they are for 2011-2013

Hi as [mention]Westbeef[/mention] says, that is the right part number, here is Fowlers site https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4845156/cbr600rr4-2004-e/cylinder-head. ok But that is for 1 only.

Yup I went onto bike-parts-Honda.com found your bike and looked at the correct assembly for the part number. It’s used on a few models

Part 5, Ye your right. Mint. Thanks for your help

Hello all. After advice again.

I have checked the valve clearances and had to reshim 1 exhaust valve. All are within tolerance now so have started to put back together. I have also fitted a manual cam chain tensioner and tightened finger tight. With this all back together I have noticed that the intake cam mark is slightly below level with the head. Exhaust cam is perfectly level with head. I have lined up the crank marking with with the indicator at the bottom. This leaves the ‘TI’ mark lining up with the notch at about 2oclock, however, is sitting more inline with the ‘T’ rAther than the ‘I’ line next to it. Do you think that the cam chain is likely to be stretched? If so from what I’ve described, would you say it will need replacing or is within tolerance. Thanks. Martin.

Could it be that your intake cam has slipped round a tooth on the camchain?

The chains skipped a tooth.

How did you lift the buckets? Did you remove the cams or just push them out of the way?

When you change the CCT you can skip as tooth as the others mentioned, I watched a few videos when I looked at doing mine. Seems you've gotta fix everything in position to avoid any movement when the CCT is off.

I removed the cam shafts when replacing the shim. Sure I haven’t slipped a tooth as it’s not that much out, it’s half a tooth out if that makes sense. On the crank, what is the line for and the ‘point’ for that is at the bottom of the hole? I’ll have to get photos tomorrow for better explanation.

Iirc from doing mine ones intake and ones exhaust.

A manual should tell you.

Align the "T" mark on the ignition pulse generator rotor with the index mark on the right crankcase cover.

- Make sure that the timing marks on the cam sprockets are facing outward and flush with the cylinder head upper surface.

If its half a tooth then its probaly just because the chains streched.

I never removed the cams, theres just enough room to lift the buckets if you push the cams out of the way.

You say line the ‘T’ mark with the index mark. In the Haynes manual it says to line the line ‘I’ that is to the right of the ‘T’ mark with index marking.