Clutch

Hi all,

Am new on here and to biking so hope this question isn't too obvious.

I've recently passed my test and am using an 02 bmw r1150 r to commute on which is perfect for what I needed.

My only concern is that the biting point in the clutch is right at the end of the lever, it isn't slipping or anything but I know on cars this can be a sign of the clutch on its way out.

It has 25000 on the clock and has full bmw service history, hope you can help, thanks in advance.

Buy a Haynes (other brands may be available) manual.

Oh - And please take the time to say 'hello' ion the 'newbies' section.

Read the Owners manual to see if there is any Clutch adjustment procedures .

Not sure how it's setup on a boxer which I'm assuming your BMW is? On a regular 4 cylinder bike the clutch is a very easy job if it is that, 10min job once the plates have been soaked overnight so don't fret over it. As others said get a manual and check adjustment. Is it hydraulic?

Thanks all,

Was thinking of getting a Haynes manual so will pop on line and order one.

It is a boxer engine with shaft drive and (I think) a dry clutch.

Not sure if that makes the job more difficult but to be honest I think it's beyond my skiil set so hoping it's just adjustment.

PS, have been to say hello in newbies section, sorry, etiquette fopar.

Hydraulic clutch isn't it? Might be due a fluid change, but I'd try the adjustment procedure first

I think they have a clutch slave cylinder have a look to see if its weeping, cheep and easy to replace.

It is hydraulic, will check fluid tonight, I feel like the clutch shouldn't be wearing out yet, only 25000 miles and it's been very well looked after.

First check to see if you have a span adjuster on the lever its a little dial with numbers on it adjusting this will move the biting point

You want the clutch bite just at the end of the lever travel on a bike.

This means less work with your hand if you only have to pull or release the lever a few centimetres rather than use the full span.

Have adjusted the lever and gained a small amount, the fluid is a bit low so will top that up and bleed if necessary.

I don't mind it being at the end(though would prefer it slightly further in), more worried the clutch was worn out, a bit of post purchase anxiety probably.

Have adjusted the lever and gained a small amount, the fluid is a bit low so will top that up and bleed if necessary.

I don't mind it being at the end(though would prefer it slightly further in), more worried the clutch was worn out, a bit of post purchase anxiety probably.

Are you able to get an after market "Dog leg" lever for this particular bike ?

What about some adjustable lever's

Would I be correct in assuming, since mostly the advise is different levers or adjustment, that the general opinion is the clutch is probably fine?

Can't tell the condition of the clutch without removing it and measuring the plates really.

Most won't worry until the clutch actually fails pal.

If you can get it feeling better for you via adjustment that's the first step.

If you can grab a hand full of throttle from lower rev's in a higher gear and it doesn't slip, then it's probably ok.....

You're right, in that it's a single dry plate clutch.....much the same as in cars....

I had an R100 many years back that had an appetite for the clutch thrust bearing......I could strip the rear of the bike and replace the bearing and reassemble everything in a few hours on a Sunday morning, and still be ready to head for the pub at lunchtime...... I think it's a bit more of a task on the newer bikes.....

Thanks all,

As has been said, I've stopped worrying about it and got on with riding it, if it wears out I'll replace it.

Too much fun to be had to waste time being anxious about a clutch that works fine.