It didnt take me long did it....rusted exhaust nuts

No drama!! Nothing broken yet.

I'm just anticipating some trouble with the sump nut when I change the oil next. I wanted to do a proper job and remove the sump to fix/replace the thread. But I need to remove the exhaust first which means removing the header nuts.

HIOWEVER, they look like this, pretty mangled and I cant even get sockets on them. Is there any way to tackle these or is this maybe a job too far?

Thanks all

Soak the studs and nuts in plus gas for 24hrs or so.

Get a decent six sided socket or two.

Heat up the nut and stud with a gas torch or heat gun.

I would start with the "best looking nuts" ahem, and carefully try to undo.

If they feel solid,try tightening them slightly.

If they feel like they are moving,keep applying some lube and work it by alternately undoing and tightening a little at a time.

With the damaged nuts you may have to hammer the socket on and eventually sacrifice them.

Patience is key to this sort of problem.

If they feel at all resistant to undoing,more plus gas and more heat.

If you are lucky the studs may wind out of the head, bin it all and fit new.

If you are unlucky the stud may snap off in the head.

Failing all that you might have to get a bit brutal, I'd try grinding into nuts with a die grinder.

I would go for hammering the socket on, the act of hammering can loosen the nuts and the socket will be a nice tight fit thanks to all the rust. The hard part then is getting the nut out of the socket.. I usually put a drift in there and whack it on the floor a lot, probably gaining a minor injury somewhere in the process.

Thanks,

I don't have any plusgas but have ben soaking them with a penetrating spray. Need to buy a gas torch too.

Get the engine stinking hot first, then pour iced water carefully on the nuts. Bang the nut and stud into the head, then carefully try to remove.

Got ur nuts off yet?

Got ur nuts off yet?

Ha, not yet. will have another look tomorrow

As said Plusgas is your best bet. Working on old cars I’ve found a useful trick is to soak in Plusgas then blast with WD40 (or similar). WD40 is a dispersant so it drives the Plusgas into the joint.

Then heat, lots of heat, and give them a sharp tap to help break the bond. Don’t just twist pressure on if they don’t budge, you’ll just shear them off ( which may happen anyway to be honest...but best avoided if possible). Use small back and forth motion to try to free them, like a rattle gun would do.

Best of luck!

Chances are that some of the studs are going to come out with the nut still attached so probably an idea to source some new ones and some 3 Bond adhesive to secure them with.https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fz6-s_fazer_non_abs___floating_calipers_5vx/04-05/picture/exhaust_stud

Thanks will be buying new studs/nuts as replacements.

I can't see the pics?, take that back they just appeared

Heat is usually best, if buying a blow torch get mapp gas it's hotter than butane.

https://www.cnspowertools.co.uk/rothenberger-35536-disposable-mapp-gas-cartridge-400-gram?gclid=CjwKCAjw1tDaBRAMEiwA0rYbSJYQd3J-cMl5tngrVioOrtm3Gn4RTVe3acE4Gy9H4McUQccF0mwi5RoCbTYQAvD_BwE

Def good fitting hex socket, and you may have to split the nuts or cut through one side with a grinder

OK, think I'm going to park this for now, getting stressed and breaking sockets albeit cheap ones probably not great for me at the moment.

I also managed to pick up a cheap impact driver earlier. however, what I didn't know is that I need an air compressor, doh!! which I don't have. I just assumed it ran off a power socket. Is there any way kind of power converter I can get. The air compressors look like pricey even the small ones.

In other medical related news. Had my biopsy on Monday had to stay in overnight because slight bleed on biopsy area, apparently tly quite usual. Results on Tuesday.... Been a long w3ek waiting.

OK, think I'm going to park this for now, getting stressed and breaking sockets albeit cheap ones probably not great for me at the moment.

I also managed to pick up a cheap impact driver earlier. however, what I didn't know is that I need an air compressor, doh!! which I don't have. I just assumed it ran off a power socket. Is there any way kind of power converter I can get. The air compressors look like pricey even the small ones.

In other medical related news. Had my biopsy on Monday had to stay in overnight because slight bleed on biopsy area, apparently tly quite usual. Results on Tuesday.... Been a long w3ek waiting.

Stick it on eBay and look for an electric one instead . I borrowed a 24 volt one recently and the guy I borrowed it from assured me that electric ones are every bit as powerful and effective as air power ones . He wasn't wrong , it scared the shit out of me !

Ha thanks, might even try and return it at LIdl.

Then look for electric one.

Electric ones vary of course, some are more powerful than others - but the better ones are very very good. I have a compressor and air powered impact wrenches and rattle guns but a powerful electric gun will shift stuff the air tools won't so I'd take Fastbob's advice on this one.

Look for good quality battery packs - that's where they get expensive of course but the older Nicad packs are useless. You want the lithium packs and the more volts the better. No point buying a cheap one, it won't do the job so it's money down the drain. You need to get a good one, which is not to say necessarily the most expensive. The only downside with some of the more powerful but cheaper versions is lack of control - it's all or nothing.

I've got loads of 20v stuff from Lidl. You can buy spare batteries and an impact driver. Works OK on my 36mm wheel nut.

I wouldn't recommend an impact driver on exhaust studs. They will just snap off.

I wouldn't recommend an impact driver on exhaust studs. They will just snap off.

Thanks, This was just an impulse purchase not really for the studs, I'm leaving them for now

I wouldn't recommend an impact driver on exhaust studs. They will just snap off.

Exactly - That's what I meant to say when I said the problem with some of them is it's all or nothing. If you can get one with torque control you can wind the torque down - like a rattle gun they don't have the huge power to snap things off but the constant application of lower amounts of pressure can free of seized parts better than just applying brute force. It's where air tools are handy because you don't have to use full pressure on bits you're worried about shearing off. Plus it makes it easier to apply a little tightening movement which can often do the trick - again, you've got to have controllable amounts of pressure.

Hi [mention]Foxy Stoat seeks Pig[/mention], sometimes you find you can't get enough heat into area, so like [mention]megawatt[/mention] mention, heating then Ice on bolts, I use this on most of my stuck bolts nowadays, never had a bolt not come out, bit expensive and you do need to blast a lot onto bolt, but better than drilling Normfest Super Crack Ultra 400ml

Product Code: NOR28944421.

And try and keep the jokes clean

Hi @Foxy Stoat seeks Pig, sometimes you find you can't get enough heat into area, so like @megawatt mention, heating then Ice on bolts, I use this on most of my stuck bolts nowadays, never had a bolt not come out, bit expensive and you do need to blast a lot onto bolt, but better than drilling Normfest Super Crack Ultra 400ml

Product Code: NOR28944421.

And try and keep the jokes clean

Thanks will get some ordered