Jump to content

Painting fairings (help needed)


Mr Fro
 Share

Recommended Posts

'Sup dudes.


I had a little "unplanned dismount" some years ago and busted my fairing. I replaced it with a Chinese number but have recently got hold of the final OEM panel to complete the original (nearly).


I couldn't find a decent rear pod thing so am going to have a go at repairing the old one.


Here it is:

IMAG1197.thumb.jpg.745809c3c6a1eaa69677bbdc166f7297.jpg

 

It's not as bad as I remember which is a bonus however I'm a bit of a duffer at painting so could use some advice...


The dinks under "ZX" are about 1mm deep - would a dob of filler primer bring this up or is it best to use a proprietary plastic filler or perhaps just bring it up with paint layers?


I can't see a primer layer so presumably the paint is laid straight on the plastic...


Ideally, I'd just touch up the scratches as the rest of it is pristine. Has anyone got any top tips?


Cheers,

Fro

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

You need to fully prepare the surface for any additional coat whether that be paint or filler.


The paint or filler must adhere fully to the surface or it wont smooth properly and give a sheer surface and it may drop off in lumps.


Preparation in everything is critical.


Get some rough sandpoaper and sand the surface where filler is to be applied. This is to create what is called a key. the tiny scratches allow the filler to securely adhere to the surface.


Then clean the surface with a product for that purpose this is a volatile liquid that evaporates leaving a dry dustless and clean surface, apply this with a clean paper towel slowly wiped over the surface.


Then mix your filler in the recommended proportions it says on the tin. Use small amounts in thin layers. It sets quick. when enough is applied and fully set get a sanding block and a sheet of medium grit sandpaper and gently smooth and shape the filler. as it gets closer to the shape of the panel change to fine sandpaper for final shaping.


The last strokes of the sandpaper can be done with no sanding block using finger pressure, this allows the sandpaper to follow the curves of the panel better and leaves no trace of it being a filled spot.


If there are any holes or depressions, go over the surface with coarse sandpaper and repeat the cleaning and add a small amount of filler then sand back.


You should end up with a very slightly rough but very smooth filled surface that is indistinguishable from the panel shape and is ready to take paint.


Mask off around the repair area leaving a small area around the filler for overspray. Spray a coat of primer by moving the spray nozzle towards and past the panel from some distance away, press the spray nozzle just before reaching the panel and continue smoothly past it in a sweeping stroke, then release the nozzle do this several times do not put too thick a layer of paint on. When it is dry add another layer. keep doing this until a thick coat is applied little by little.


When the primer is dry use a very fine sandpaper to gently smooth it and provide a key for the paint, then clean the surface with the cleaner and paper towel.


Then spray the correct colour in the same way you applied the primer.


After the paint is dry remove the masking and there will be some signs of paint edge. get the finest wet and dry you can and very gently smooth and grade the edge of the fresh paint to remove the sprayed edges. after that get some liquid abrasive that will polish the paint and remove the tiny abrasive scratches that the wet and dry left behind. Then use an abrasive paint product like tcut. tcut the entire panel to blend the finish. By this time there should be no evidence of the repair.


This is as much art as it is artifice and by preparing well and taking care and using the right products a perfect repair can be achieved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a TL;DR guide as I think you're a technical bloke. And if you want to go the whole hog.


1. Body filler, sand with 120-240 grit to bring smooth. Then smooth out with a going over of 400 grit, also do this to the rest of the fairing.

2. Filler primer would be a good shout anyway as it smooths any imperfections, sand back any imperfections to 400 grit and lay another primer layer.

3. Work through 600, then 800 grits all over the fairing to key the primer once it's cured.

4. 3 x layers of top coat with 800 grit cut back in between to help prevent orange peel. You don't need a mirror shine at this stage but get as smooth as possible.

5. 2 layers of top coat.

6. Buff out the imperfections with a polisher. You may need to mount the fairing to get good pressure. 1500 grit and above is ideal, finishing around 3000 with a good polish. This should give you the best mirror like finish.


Note: You may find slightly higher/lower grits benefit you better depending on the filler/paint you use. So experiment as you go.


Failing that, my paint guy near me will do a tail section with small filler repairs for £60 back to the original colour. You just need to provide decals as he insists doing a partial repair is never the best option.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pay someone to do it you wont regret it!


if you screw it up it will probably cost you the same as paying someone anyway!


I have painted full panels easy enough with success but repairs are an art

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Stu , whole panels yes but blending in a repair like this is not a job to be doing if this is your first attempt. You're working perilously close to that graphic as well . One potential problem might be to find someone with the expertise who charges reasonable rates . In my experience, accident repair specialists who do insurance work like to greatly over charge for it .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends how much it means to you, if you want it perfect first time then pay someone else, if you're happy to take the time and won't be too upset if it comes out a disaster then give it a go :thumb:


I wouldn't use body filler for something only 1mm deep, get some knifing putty, it's more like a thick paint in a tube, much better for smaller dinks as it's a finer paste, same procedure though put some in, scrape off excess then sand with a fine grit afterwards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Stu says,leave it to a professional.

I'm getting my SS125 frame and bits painted,was going to have a go myself but didn't want to screw it up and have to pay again for stripping it and more material.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Welcome to The Motorbike Forum.

    Sign in or register an account to join in.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Please Sign In or Sign Up