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Gear change indicator bulbs blown


Jevi
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As the heading says, my question is what's the possible cause?

 

Come on , you haven't even told us what bike it is . You've got to give us something to go on like events leading up to this or recent work done to the bike . Why do bulbs blow ? Well if they didn't there would be no need to sell replacements . If you have ruled out solar flares and nearby alien activity it's probably a short in the circuit or just plain old age .

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As the heading says, my question is what's the possible cause?

 

Come on , you haven't even told us what bike it is . You've got to give us something to go on like events leading up to this or recent work done to the bike . Why do bulbs blow ? Well if they didn't there would be no need to sell replacements . If you have ruled out solar flares and nearby alien activity it's probably a short in the circuit or just plain old age .

 

Yes agreed we need a lot more info . Also what's you bank account number sort code then we need your Pin

Then we can help lol.

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As the heading says, my question is what's the possible cause?

 

As said ( well the non sarcastic comments anyway)

Bike model

Is this an aftermarket accessory or standard ?

photos of area of concern help

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The boys bike is a Lexmoto Arizona and the gear change indicator is a standard part.

The bulbs are rated 12v 1.7W

Most of the bulbs were missing when we got the bike but I got replacements from Wemoto and everything was working fine till we took it to get mot'd and the b$+rd thing hasn't worked properly

since.

I've been trying to track down the why it's starting and running fine one minute then refusing to start 15mins later and blowing the main fuse.

Things aren't being helped by the wire colours being totally different to every wiring diagram I've come across.

Haynes are living upto their usual standard with their Chinese motorcycle manual where the wiring diagrams don't tell you bulb types/watttages and having to flick back and forward through the manual in order to find out how things come apart.

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You have either a loose connection or a short in your loom - That is the easy part! The hard part is to find it!!!


Unless you are very lucky, then you may have to check through the wires one at a time (using a multimeter). But first, try (when it is running), gently moving parts of the main loom and see it you can find the area that causes the main fuse to blow - Turning the handlebar slowly lock to lock - switching on/off various switches (leave for at least a minute each time). If you do find the general area, then look for rusty earths, loose connections, signs of overheating or chaffed wires, etc.


Good luck!


:cheers:

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:oops: What a numpty!

None of the bulbs had blown after all I hadn't pushed the connector block far enough in and I had the wrong resistance value set on the multimeter so the bulbs didn't register properly when I tried testing them.

Anyhoo the bike started first time again ran okay as I tried different switches and turning the handlebars lock to lock.

Switched off and tried it again blew the fuse after about 5 tries on the button So back to the drawing board.

I'll get the tank off again so I can get to the connector blocks over the engine and check back to the starter relay and fuse from there

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Guest Richzx6r

You have either a loose connection or a short in your loom - That is the easy part! The hard part is to find it!!!


Unless you are very lucky, then you may have to check through the wires one at a time (using a multimeter). But first, try (when it is running), gently moving parts of the main loom and see it you can find the area that causes the main fuse to blow - Turning the handlebar slowly lock to lock - switching on/off various switches (leave for at least a minute each time). If you do find the general area, then look for rusty earths, loose connections, signs of overheating or chaffed wires, etc.


Good luck!


:cheers:

 

Sounds abit methodical.....my course of action is normally a prayer to the magic and wizardry gods and a sacrifice to appease them

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The wiring in Chinese bikes is horrendous. I had to rewire mine lots of cables fed other cables which in turn fed other cables. They use a very strange way to splice into cables which is twist the wires together then use a brass crimp to hold them together and a bit of tape. Might be simpler to buy a new loom from Chinese motorcycle parts on line. At least you'll have a good starting chance.

Dave

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  • 5 weeks later...

:crybaby: Come across an unexpected new problem. The clutch lever switch should show open circuit with the lever in/out?

This one shows open circuit in both positions, I've removed the switch from the housing and when you push the button in the switch works, there's a definite on/off but when I refitted it I'm back to square one.

Does the clutch lever have some sort of raised point that acts like a cam on the switch because the one that's fitted seems to have a shiny area that looks like something has been rubbing.

I've tried pushing the switch as far back as I could but it hasn't made any difference.

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Sorted the switch out, it needed forcing back into the housing before fitting the locking screw.

I've spent the afternoon tracing out various circuits and checked through the ignition system.

Coil, ignition cable and plug cap resistances are all within the values given in the Haynes manual and there is a spark which while not huge is a spark.

Battery started to flag so it's now on charge and Ive opened the plug gap out to 31thou as it was a bit tight.

I'll try it again once the battery is fully charged.


I do appear to have lost bloody gear indicator bulbs for 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th years again.


Yes I have got the plugs connected this time so I'll have to go back start again with the tests

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