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Steering head bearings question


goat
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Mentioned it in my recommission thread but thought I'd ask separately. In the processor f changing the Headstock bearings on the sv. Old ones have come out. They were ball type bearings and the replacements are taper roller. I've seated the bearing cups. The top one sits slightly proud. This means when the bearing is sat in it the dust seal doesn't seem to sit fully down. Is it an issue, if so what is the resolution? It's definitely seated properly by the way, no gap underneath and any burrs etc removed beforehand.

IMG_20200903_190102.thumb.jpg.e6a1b07a12ffdfa74ccdc9422caf8d91.jpgIMG_20200902_175210.thumb.jpg.940cec290cc601f68325533f75b4edcd.jpgIMG_20200903_190050.thumb.jpg.74decf6529174a852a389cc06ca18147.jpg

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Are you sure that cup is properly seated? .. If it is fully in are you sure its the correct one?

 

Yes and yes. Like I said before definitely seated correctly, couldn't get a mosquitos tweeter underneath it. Part number is correct. Searching online I have found a couple of threads on sv forums that suggest it's a not unheard of Issue on the early bikes when switching from ball to roller bearings, although they don't offer any solution or really say if it's an issue

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All the head bearings I have done the inner race has always sat flush or slightly below!


This is an old outer race used to tap the inner race in on the TL1000


The inner race on those sat below

 

06112009138.jpg

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All the head bearings I have done the inner race has always sat flush or slightly below!


This is an old outer race used to tap the inner race in on the TL1000


The inner race on those sat below


06112009138.jpg

 

That was what I was expecting. 🤔

 

Did the old bearings sit flush can you remember?

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All the head bearings I have done the inner race has always sat flush or slightly below!


This is an old outer race used to tap the inner race in on the TL1000


The inner race on those sat below


06112009138.jpg

 

That was what I was expecting. 🤔

 

Did the old bearings sit flush can you remember?

 

Helpfully don't recall. Hard to compare out as they are quite different bring ball type with a very shallow inner race

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That was what I was expecting. 🤔

 

Did the old bearings sit flush can you remember?

 

Helpfully don't recall. Hard to compare out as they are quite different bring ball type with a very shallow inner race

 

I can't see it being a problem to be honest with you providing the top and bottom yolks fit and you can get the nuts on OK


The only thing you may encounter is slightly different geometry due to a raised top yolk but probably not enough to worry about to be honest

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Did the old bearings sit flush can you remember?

 

Helpfully don't recall. Hard to compare out as they are quite different bring ball type with a very shallow inner race

 

I can't see it being a problem to be honest with you providing the top and bottom yolks fit and you can get the nuts on OK


The only thing you may encounter is slightly different geometry due to a raised top yolk but probably not enough to worry about to be honest

 

I'll put it all together and see what it's like. My main concern was if the dust cap didn't sit properly it would all crap to get in but I think it will be reet.


This is the thread I found, seems to be normal.


https://www.svrider.com/threads/tapered-steering-bearing-doesnt-fit.396111/

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Yeah I thought the same on the seal too but looking at it it looks as though it sits over the headstock enough to seal it!


The only other option is find a solution to close the gap between the seal and the frame! Like a plastic ring over it or something :?

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If you get the sizes required or take what you have to a bearing supplier and say how much it's sticking out, you may be able to get one that's flush, just because other folk have same problem and think it's ok it doesn't mean it's not a problem.

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Worst thing for me is how the bearing doesnt sit fully in its race or is that just not sitting properly by poor placement ?

As rollers will not be spreading the load evenly

 

It wasnt properly in just laid on so I could see how the dust cap would sit.

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If you get the sizes required or take what you have to a bearing supplier and say how much it's sticking out, you may be able to get one that's flush, just because other folk have same problem and think it's ok it doesn't mean it's not a problem.

 

Size of both bearings are the same 25x47x15. It may be that the dust cap was seated the same height with the old bearing but I usefully didn't look beforehand to check.

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The more I look at it the more convinced I am it's right. The seat for the bearing is 10mm so the OEM bearing being 15mm must, in its totality, be 5mm over. Looking at my ace pics you can see a slight 'tide' line where the dust cap has been sitting previously.

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Just skimming through this . I'm quite surprised it originally had ball bearings and I'm also surprised that the top and bottom bearings are the same .

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Just skimming through this . I'm quite surprised it originally had ball bearings and I'm also surprised that the top and bottom bearings are the same .

 

The top and bottom bearings are a slightly different size but both were a ball type, which are the OEM fittings. This is the old bottom bearing

IMG_20200902_155809.thumb.jpg.9ed727d1ed06f229bff94915dd778ba0.jpg

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