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Lexmoto low rider won't start and no spark


dragon567
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Lexmoto 125 low rider won't start. No spark turns over great starter solenoid working and new. New coil. Kill switch good. Stand switch bypassed. Was working and starting other week but took a while. How do I check the stator is working. Many thanks

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If it's not starting all you can do to check the stator is a resisance test. Unplug the connector going to the stator. I'm assuming it's a three phase stator so there should be three wires that are the same colour. Usually yellow or white. The resistance of a good stator is very low. Around 1 ohm or less. That means to get an accurate measurement you have to take into account the resistance of your test leads. To find out the resistance of your test leads put the meter to resistance and touch the test leads together and whenever reading you get, take that away from what you measured for the stator resistance.


When you know the resitance of your test leads measure the resistance between every pair of wires in the connector. They should all be around the same resistance. If one is noticeably higher than the others it means one of the phases is damaged and the stator should be replaced.


You also have to check the resistance between each wire in the connector and ground. Set the meter to the highest resistance. Touch between each wire and ground. It should show OL or a very high resistance. If the restance is low it means that the stator is short to ground and you need a new stator.


Having said all that. With a fully charged battery most bikes will still run even if the stator has failed or is totally unplugged. They run until the battery goes flat. Then they cut out and can't be restarted because the battery has gone flat. Maybe your bike is set up different though. Without a manual it's hard to say. I would suspect that your problem is more likely to be a a bad connection or broken wire somewhere.

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If it's not starting all you can do to check the stator is a resisance test. Unplug the connector going to the stator. I'm assuming it's a three phase stator so there should be three wires that are the same colour. Usually yellow or white. The resistance of a good stator is very low. Around 1 ohm or less. That means to get an accurate measurement you have to take into account the resistance of your test leads. To find out the resistance of your test leads put the meter to resistance and touch the test leads together and whenever reading you get, take that away from what you measured for the stator resistance.



When you know the resitance of your test leads measure the resistance between every pair of wires in the connector. They should all be around the same resistance. If one is noticeably higher than the others it means one of the phases is damaged and the stator should be replaced.


You also have to check the resistance between each wire in the connector and ground. Set the meter to the highest resistance. Touch between each wire and ground. It should show OL or a very high resistance. If the restance is low it means that the stator is short to ground and you need a new stator.


Having said all that. With a fully charged battery most bikes will still run even if the stator has failed or is totally unplugged. They run until the battery goes flat. Then they cut out and can't be restarted because the battery has gone flat. Maybe your bike is set up different though. Without a manual it's hard to say. I would suspect that your problem is more likely to be a a bad connection or broken wire somewhere.

Tested stator all good I'm thinking the cdi has gone but there is noway of checking that I have been told ordered a new cdi. All wiring has been checked and everything good.

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You can't directly test the CDI but you can test the wires going to it. If they're all as they should be you know the CDI is faulty. You would need a wiring diagram to know what each wire should be. I'd guess a lot of these bikes use the same wiring so you might be able to work out what wire is what off a different modle wiring diagram. How many wires are going to the CDI and what colour are they?

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You can't directly test the CDI but you can test the wires going to it. If they're all as they should be you know the CDI is faulty. You would need a wiring diagram to know what each wire should be. I'd guess a lot of these bikes use the same wiring so you might be able to work out what wire is what off a different modle wiring diagram. How many wires are going to the CDI and what colour are they?

 

Will check wire colours tomorrow and post up

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It could be something simple like a spark plug. If you've got another spark plug try it. You could try your old ignition coil. The new one could be faulty.

New spark plug first thing I did was get another plug before trying new ignition coil.

When I first got bike 2 weeks ago I got it home was a pain to start and flattened battery. Bought new battery and and got it running. Guy I bought bike off fitted an aftermarket ignition barrel and it a wire broke off and lost neutral light Fitted new one and got the neutral light came back. Now can't get a spark

IMG_20200901_195354.thumb.jpg.06196dc665e14456356a5d2cf006e795.jpg

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Did it ever work after you put the new ignition in? If you can get a wiring diagram we can help you work through each possible cause logically one by one. Without a wiring diagram you're just trying random things hoping to get lucky.

 

No spark after I fitted new ignition but the neutral light comes on with ignition. Can't find a wiring diagram for the low rider

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Looks to be the same diagram in both of your links. I don't see a neutral light on that diagram. Is your neutral light part of a gear indicator? Check if the wire colours match up with what's on your bike. Check the colours at the CDI and ignition switch. If they do match then we can use the diagram to go through things one at a time.


There's a chance that your new ignition switch isn't making a circuit connection. If that wiring diagram is correct we can use it to work that out.

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[strikeout]There's a cut down version with the wires that are part of creating the spark. Here's what I would do. I'm not a mechanic so it's up to you if you want to follow it or not. The safety cut outs that affect spark work by grounding the the signal side of the pick up coil when they're closed. The pick up coil is what tells the CDI when to spark. In the diagram the pick up coil is to the right of the magneto. The red/black and green wires go to the pick up coil. Red/black is the signal to tell the CDI when to fire, green is the ground for the pick up coil. The safety cut outs work by grounding the red/black wire.


You can eliminate the safety cut outs as a variable by unplugging them. So unplug the kill switch, unplug the side stand switch and unplug the ignition switch. That will eliminate all the safety cut out. In the connector going to the ignition switch join the red and black wire. That will put 12V from the battery to the CDI. That's the same as the key being in the on position. That should be enough to creat a spark.


Take the spark plug out. Put the bike in neutral and crank it and check if you've got spark now. If you've got spark now the problem is in one of the components you unplugged. If you've still not got spark. You will have to check the wires at the CDI using your multimeter and see what is missing.[/strikeout]


You've linked the wrong wiring diagram for your bike so don't follow those instructions.

Edited by WD-40
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