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How to remove exhaust bolts


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Does anyone have any other ideas about removing rusty exhaust bolts? I am getting very close to snapping these off now:


See the blog: http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2012 ... ay-44.html


http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wquwT_X-v-Q/UGl3QFXb2JI/AAAAAAAABIA/lhGnZTWzTRA/s1600/P1040386.jpg


http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iRZzX4XpTo8/UGl3REr4UdI/AAAAAAAABIE/dUge1tX0qDE/s1600/P1040387.jpg


I can't find a one quarter inch hex (6mm) impact driver bit. So I tried the impact driver with a few extentions and a reducer so that I could attach a 6mm hex bit but I can't get enough welly into it and I fear the bits will break. I have done tons of Halfords own brand penetrating lube already.


Greetings


http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2012 ... ay-44.html

Edited by londonboards
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I you have time soak them with wd40 or what ever pen oil you wish twice a day for a week so it can soak in. Then get it hot and it should come out. If it snaps just hope it snaps by the hex not by the head so you can grip it, it's easier to get heat to it once the manifold is off tho.

After that it's a case of drill and remove. Always worth tapping the holes before replacing the studs regardless.

If the head strips helicoil repair kits are about a tenner.

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Heat and cold will usually do it. Get alloy around stud as hot as possible and then drip freezing cold water onto bolt or stud. I use plumber's freeze spray. Do this three times and than gently wriggle bolt head backwards and forwards until you break the seal. You may have to repeat several times.

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Not gunna bother reading the other posts cuz im like that :P


WD-40

Tightening it before loosening to "break" the rust seal

Heat up the metal around it (could be done just after a long ride as the engine should heat it up a bit)

hitting with a hammer

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Do what Megawatt said...


Because above all else, the right amount of procedure and patience will always prevail. (usually :lol:)


If no access to a blow torch or means of heating it, switch the engine on and let it get hot, then blast some freezing fluid on it.

About all I can add!

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Heat and cold will usually do it. Get alloy around stud as hot as possible and then drip freezing cold water onto bolt or stud. I use plumber's freeze spray. Do this three times and than gently wriggle bolt head backwards and forwards until you break the seal. You may have to repeat several times.

 


as above and also while its hot get loads of WD40 sprayed on to it


also while you love linking to your blogspot you dont HAVE to post it in every post this will be seen as spamming! A link back to this place from your blog wouldn't go a miss either :wink:

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Thanks one and all.


I have continued the bolts discussion on my viewtopic.php?f=87&t=46008 rebuild thread where I think I should have put it in the first place.


Really difficult to know where to post specific problems so that good guys like you will be able to help me. If I post them on the rebuild thread and you are not following that thread ...... That's why I set this one up.


Greetings

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"Not gunna bother reading the other posts cuz im like that :p" I'll remember that the next time YOU are desperate for some help Alex. :evil:

 

ha. sorry, I was about to go to bed after my night shift and couldn't be bothered to read but wanted to give my two sence in case it helped. I do usually read replies :-)

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Agreed, a good mate brings his car to me for work lot and I almost always spray WD into the hollow on top of his exhaust manifold, about 5 minutes after start up smoke bellows from his bonnet. He panicked first time or two but now I just get a text calling me a @£"& and a lol.

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1. Trick - take your time. My bolts had been in for at least 25 years and it has taken me 2 weeks to get them out. Not 2 weeks of total work but a little bit every day.


2. I think the magic formula was a concoction of 50% brake fluid and 50% cellulose thinners. Brush this on twice a day. Mine came out after 3 days of this.


3. Don't be afraid to do some impact driving. I had hex bolts holding my exhaust in and it took me a while to find the right combination of driver bits and 3/8th inch and 1/2 inch converters. Give them a good whack. Do it a couple of times a day. Keep adding concoction.


4. Don't stick on the one bolt, try them all. I spent the first week on one bolt. Nothing moved. Then today I tried another bolt on the other side of the engine. It came out quite easily. So I did some of the others. The first bolt was the worst. See the photos and you understand why. I had spent all that time being put off because the first bolt I tried was the worst.


5. Take your time. Don't expect to do it in a day.


6. My next trick was going to be the blow torch (I ordered them from Ebay but they have'nt arrived yet) but in the end they weren't needed.


7. Trick - try tightening them as well as unscrewing them. My first discernable movement on the first bolt I got out was when I screwed it in. Even the smallest movement is good. Add more concoction and keeping screwing it up (until it's very tight) and then unscrewing it a little. For a time it seemed to me that it got tighter the more I unscrewed it. That was the sign to screw it back in and add some more concoction and wait a little.


8. From the photos you can see that the concoction penetrated the bolts by about 50% (see the darker part of the bolt) which is quite amazing.


http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3VrrqGL-9yQ/UHhLLXMLSBI/AAAAAAAABTk/H1Tk3Yjpdao/s1600/P1040450.jpg


http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FE0Jqecfp0g/UHhLZYc95AI/AAAAAAAABT0/DLaE8VBW5yo/s1600/P1040453.jpg


http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tqwKg1ggGl0/UHhL1YjHc_I/AAAAAAAABUM/zr476TqGMOY/s1600/P1040472.jpg

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