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9 days en France 24th June-2nd July 2017 report


rob m
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Gerontious (Tony) had already started a thread here:

 

https://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=93&t=64113

 

I thought it would be better to have a separate thread for those who might be interested to read about our trip. Apologies for posting some of the same pictures again. I have lots of pictures so I'm going to write up one day at time.

 

Saturday 24th June

 

It was to be an early start from my flat, which is 74 miles to the Eurotunnel. Tony had already ridden down from Nottingham the night before. We set off at 6am in order to grab a 'nutritious' breakfast at McDonalds at Eureka Park, Ashford, before getting on the train. The bikes were also topped up at Sainsburys. We were booked for a 08:50 departure. We made it on time easily. I have to say it has to be the smoothest check in and crossing I’ve ever experienced. Straight through, no waiting, no hassle even with the extra passport check. There were lots of bikes on board, some touring, some going to the GP at Assen I think.

 

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Our destination for today was Avallon and to get there in good time it was going to have to be using the peage/autoroute. The first leg was almost trouble-free apart from Tony nearly breaking the Peage machine and requiring a very pissed off looking Frenchman to retrieve his ticket from the machine. I did laugh :lol: One of the things I was looking forward to was eating some French cuisine. So when we stopped at the services, we ordered Gammon (Jambon) and mash :lol: Although the mash was that lumpy kind they like over there.

 

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There isn't a lot to say about the ride to Avallon other than the weather stayed warm and dry and autoroutes are boring but they serve a purpose. We stopped to fill up on fluids and I had my Camelbak water bladder which was kept topped up with chilled water. Well recommended. Petrol was more expensive but not outrageous.

 

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We arrived in Avallon at about 6pm and rocked up at a Municipal campsite, which was cheap (about 8 euros each) but had great facilities. The site owner spoke a little English but none of his staff did. Still, we managed to get what we needed. Municipal campsites can vary in quality but this was a good one. Very clean. The weather was very hot and setting up the tents was a sweaty affair but helped by a couple of cold ones :D

 

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The campsite staff made us pizza which was welcome. The woman who gave us our change for the pizzas said something in French, and said 'Brexit' before laughing :lol: So far we had covered around 410 miles from home. It was one of the easier days though! We had a few beers and chatted about getting to Millau tomorrow and riding through the Morvan. It was flipping hot sleeping under canvas that night. There was a few UK couples there in campervans etc who were friendly and who were also bikers so we chatted to them for a while the next morning.

 

Camping wise, we both brought tents but also inflatable sleeping mats, pillows and light sleeping bags. There's no need to be uncomfortable while camping. A stove and kettle to make coffee was essential for us too. The main consideration is how much you can carry on the bike and whether it's needed. Next time I'll drop a couple of items but also use a bigger roll bag. Another thing we did was bring clothes for 5 days and then washed them mid week rather than bring 9 days worth. This worked well. It's down to personal preference but I had a microfibre towel which I thoroughly recommend. They pack down really small.

 

Anyway, we were looking forward to the ride to Millau on Sunday. I'll upload that report soon :D

Edited by rob m
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For my part... I really wanted to get a flavour of the Morvan as a possible destination in its own right for some time in the future and that included seeing how tedious (or not) the ride there was,, also what the campsite was like and what its facilities were. Was nice to see that it had a common room, with Fridge, Microwave and water chiller.. so somewhere to sit inside on cooler (or wet) evenings. there was also seating outside.. patio style. and a Swimming pool. The campsite was below the village in a little valley surrounded by rocks.. off a quiet lane. there was zero traffic noise at night. The place even had a proper swimming pool. so as far as Municpal campsites go it was right up there and on a par with some 4 and 5 star sites Ive stayed at. Security was high and the owners/managers lived on the site in a totally incongruous Alpine chalet type house.


We were a bit weary and didnt have either the time or the energy. But the town above looks very nice and is likely worth a visit if you're in that part of the world. a typical french fortified village that seems to have escaped the ravages of war to a great extent.


 

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The campsite was called http://www.campingsousroche.com

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Good report, cheers


I'd put money on the campsite staff speaking perfect English however, they just pretend they don't to get an easier life and do a gallic shrug every time a British person finds something to complain about.


On Brexit, the whole world is laughing at us, we've become even more stupid looking than the Yanks.

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Sunday 25th June

 

Up early and bikes loaded we ventured to the local McD's for breakfast (this was to become a theme :lol:). We filled up the bikes at the 24/7 unmanned automated petrol station. Being a Sunday there isn't a lot open so when we could fill up, we did. The plan was to ride through the Morvan, avoiding motorways as much as we could. Our destination for the day was Millau, home of the famous bridge. Heading south out of Avallon, we found some very nice roads and scenery but also came across the first of many roads that had been scattered with gravel. We would encounter more as the week went on, it got my nerves a bit to be honest! We both enjoyed the Morvan area though and would like to return one day. The only section of motorway we used was the free stretch of the A75 which takes you all the way to Millau. However it was an interesting ride with plenty of curves and the scenery becoming more stunning as we headed south. We could see the Auvergne from a distance and it looked impressive with the remnants of volcanoes to see. As we approached Millau the bridge looked very impressive, along with the mountains surrounding it.

 

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We arrived at the campsite at around 7pm. The weather was very hot. The site was run by a Dutch fella who was a bit of a joker. It was advertised as 4 star campsite but after looking around it really wasn't but we were there and pitched our tents then headed for the bar for pizza and beer. Beer was averaging £5 a pint :shock:

 

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Another hot night to sleep through but at least we were based somewhere for a few days so we could venture out without all of the luggage on the bikes.

Edited by rob m
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I was really quite sorry to be leaving the Morvan... it was exactly the kind of area I like.. pretty much undeveloped.. it has no major highways running through it.. No real major roads either, an area comprising of low mountains and roads that wind along valley bottoms.. through tiny villages and hamlets. The largest 'town' and 'capital' of the area is Château-Chinon and thats hardly a town with a population of just over 2000. Its a national park.. just under 800 square miles of 'nothing' aside from a lovely unspoilt landscape. 'Nothing' doesn't do it justice as I'm sure its full of little gems to be discovered.. but there is so little information about the place in english... its a bit of a mystery. one to be discovered... and within an easy days ride of calais. Definitely worth a revist with more time spent.


The gravel we encountered was very wearing.. but also, I found it really amusing that we had been encountering it for more than a few miles when suddenly there appeared (as if by magic) a sign warning us of loose chippings. So it went on for a good distance.. bits of road that were clear.. then chippings. then clear again. A couple of things really struck me though.. the almost complete lack of traffic and more unusual for such an area.. almost no Bicycles at all. This mid morning on a sunday.. a warm dry day was very odd.


But.. we were soon out of the area and heading south west. The idea was to pick up the Motorway south of Clermont Ferrand that would take us directly south into the Languedoc and to Millau. My intent was that we would stop for lunch at the Aire de Service des Volcans d'Auvergne... where we had lunch, a fairly late lunch.. but it was pretty good. By this time it was getting very hot and going inside to air conditioning was a joy. Once we left there and were on our way south again the view of the Volcanos was really eye popping... I was so tempted to pull over and try to convince Rob to go there instead.. despite the fact rain was on its way.

 

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From Clermont south.... its just as Rob described. The landscape on either side of the motorway became more and more stunning.. it also got very warm as the afternoon went on.. it must have been approaching 30c as despite a mesh jacket and very 'open' summer gloves.. there was no relief from the wind blast.. it was like riding into an oven. We stopped a few times for refreshements on our way and fuel. one thing that we passed that i was glad to see was an iron bridge designed by Eifel.... that i remembered from history lessons at school. we missed the viewing spot at the motorway side.. but we did get a good view as we went past.

 

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We left the Motorway just before the toll plaza for the Millau bridge... by this time I for one was getting weary and just wanted to get to Millau and the campsite... get set up and then chill with a beer.


It was another 10 miles from the motorway to millau... but in that 10 miles i think we both knew that it really was worth the effort of riding down through France to this place.


I had chosen the campsite based almost entirely on its location and star rating... the location was great.. but the star rating was not what i personally would expect. it was alright.. but not by any stretch fantastic.


Tents were soon up and then it was look for food time.. we gave the onsite restaurant a go.. too late for a proper meal.. but pizza was offered.. followed by a big shock. almost £5 for a 500ml glass of beer. That was the first and last time we ate or drank at that restaurant. too rich for me.

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I had moules marinere at one point! I think McDs have overtaken the traditional stuff, they were everywhere. They should combine the two. Egg and snail mcmuffin? Mmm. More pics on their way, can't guarantee no BMWs though..or Rukka :D

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Looks a fantastic trip. Very much whetting my appetite!


[mention]rob m[/mention] what size Oxford Aqua bag are you using? Think I need to get myself one, since the actual capacity of my panniers is much smaller than their bulk would suggest, and taking the wife's helmet out with me is going to pretty much fill one of them!

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Looks a fantastic trip. Very much whetting my appetite!


@rob m what size Oxford Aqua bag are you using? Think I need to get myself one, since the actual capacity of my panniers is much smaller than their bulk would suggest, and taking the wife's helmet out with me is going to pretty much fill one of them!

 

I have the 50l and frankly I wished I bought a bigger one for camping gear. For clothing I imagine 50l is fine. A great tip is to measure across your panniers and buy a roll bag to fit that measurement and pack your heavier stuff in the middle where it is supported by the seat.

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Monday 26th June

 

I was awoken at 8am by Tony shouting 'Morning Rob!' Always welcome :up: After a fresh cup of coffee and a shower (no need for male/female separation on this site :shock: ) we were ready to go. Breakfast was provided by a familiar American restaurant chain. Today we headed out of Millau and upwards. Weather was a little iffy but not too bad. We found a lovely twisty road which provided us with a great view to take a couple of snaps of Millau. The view was stunning.

 

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Jealousy is a terrible thing...

 

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To the east of Millau.

 

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...and the town with the Millau Bridge in the background.

 

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Tony's sat nav found some amazing roads and scenery and I was really starting to fall in love with France. We stopped on a road with multiple hairpins to take in the view this pic was taken overlooking Peyreleau. We made our way to the top and across a plain (with a deer narrowly missing me while darting across the road) but then we made a diversion due to the weather and headed down one of the most dangerous descents I've ever ridden. Loads of hairpins, narrow and gravel strewn all over the place. It was not fun anymore :shock: Anyhoo, once we were at the bottom I felt much better. Once we got into the Gorges Du Tarn things became much more interesting. The views were jaw dropping and one road in particular, the D996 was fantastic to ride. It was a little damp and I'm sure if it was dry, we would have really made the most of it, although we weren't hanging around as it was. This was followed by the D998 which was equally as good but I preferred the D996. After that, we headed for a small town called Ispagnac for lunch.

 

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We both had the same salad for lunch. It was epic, lots of blue cheese involved. Afterwards we ordered coffee and came to realise that coffee in France almost always comes in a small cup, even if you order large. It was about a thimbleful. Lunch chomped, I took a few more pictures of this nice little town. The afternoon was about to get much better.

 

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From Ispagnac we hit the D907BIS which follows the River Tarn through the Gorges. It started to rain quite heavily so we stopped in a small town called St. Enimie for a coffee. Beautiful little place.

 

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After the rain stopped we continued along the D907 where the Gorges became more spectacular. We couldn't resist stopping here to take a picture. Laval Du Tarn.

 

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I really wish I had brought my Drift video camera as the roads were fantastic, at one point becoming one way and very similar to the Combe Laval we would ride later in the week. All in all, we had scratched the surface but what we had seen certainly made us think about coming back one day.

 

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Once back in Millau we decided to walk to the local Lidl for supplies. On the way we had a pint in town and I took a few pictures of the town which was typically French. Tony asked me where I would like to go on Tuesday and I quickly replied 'seaside'. I just hoped the weather would play ball for us as I drifted off to sleep.

Edited by rob m
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The thing about Millau is just how many great roads start from the town... not just great roads that are a joy to ride, but also those that climb up into the heights and have simply amazing views with the added excitement of no barriers at the side and precipitous drops.. slopes that are more like cliffs. As was the case with my jokey 'kick the bike over - pose'.


so.. from the campsite we had all of this on the doorstep:

 

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and the very first road we climbed was the D110 which wound its way up and around the mountain that loomed over Millau.


The Entire area.. this part of the Languedoc is called the Grands Causses... which in english translates as Big Plateau. its just one tiny part of the Massif central

 

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So.. this huge plateau with Millau at its western edge... carved by rivers into these truly epic gorges, many of which had roads winding along them with medieval villages clinging to the sides.

 

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Epic doesnt do it justice... and riding along the roads by the river you dont really get an idea of what the landscape is really like until you climb up onto the top of the plateau... or view it from the air.

 

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It really is an amazing place... and we were very lucky that day. The few spots of rain that appeared was just an excuse to pull over and have a coffee while taking in the view.. typical summer rain, it only lasted minutes and then drifted away and very soon the roads were bone dry again and we were on our way.



The dangerous descent Rob mentioned.. that was a mistake on my part, it all looked fine at the start, no warning signs... nothing to make us turn around and by the time it got nasty it was too late.. I couldn't have turned the GS around and Rob hadn't a hope in hell of turning his K1200 around so.. we just had to stick with it. Fortunately we were in luck and no car came the other way.. had that happened it would have been an impasse. the Car would have had to reverse to a passing place.. trouble was there weren't many.


you can check it out for yourself: https://goo.gl/maps/rN4Uq6nUz1N2

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Tuesday 27th June

 

We were off to the seaside! No bucket or spade was required though, it was great roads we were after. Breakfast was provided by the food we bought from Lidl the night before so no McDonalds (although we did stop in one later for a drink). :roll:

 

This is the route we took to St Pierre La Mer. The weather was hot and sunny. The ride was great, some of the roads were surrounded by landscape that at times looked like the surface of the moon.

 

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We stopped for a quick rest in a picturesque village called Lunas, Tony ventured off for some bottled water while I had a conversation with a french woman who made brrrm noises while chatting away and looking at the bikes, unaware I didn't have a clue what she was on about. I kept smiling and said 'au revoir' when she walked off.

 

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After some hydration (and my camelbak filled again) we were off and rode to Beziers, stopping for another cold drink at McD's.

 

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Took us about an hour to get to St Pierre La Mer. Very small seaside town with a Spanish feel to it, which isn't surprising as we were only around 60 miles from the Spanish Border. Lunch was on our mind. We found a little restaurant called Cote De Sud. The waiter let us but our jackets and coats on a sofa next to us which was good of him.

 

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Ahh Moules Mariniere et Frites. Accepted, it's a mighty long way to ride for Moolies but it was worth it. Had a sip of the wine and I went cross eyed :lol: Tony had a beef kebab of sorts which was very nice apparently.

 

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Managed to get a couple of pictures of the Med before setting off for the ride back. Well, we had to really.

 

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Apologies for the lack of pictures from here onward for this day but we didn't really stop, the ride back was so good. Tony can fill the blanks for me but one D road we took was epic. Lots of bends while the road made it's way upwards. The only fly in the ointment was quite a few lorries but there were enough passing spots to get a wiggle on. Parts of it reminded me very much of the N260 in Spain. Cracking road. After that we headed into an area that was very much like the Eifel in Germany. We were in our element. After a while we stopped at a small Spar for water and while there an English bloke in car chatted to us while we had a drink. Turns out he lives there and gave us some advice about the area. After that it was mission Millau to get back before the imminent rain moved in. We managed to get to the E Leclerc beneath the Millau bridge at around 19:30 for provisions and from there to the campsite before the heavens opened. We retreated to our tents as the light and sound show provided us with the entertainment. I googled 'what are the chances of being hit by lightning in a tent?'. I wasn't and slept well that night. Not surprising as I think we did around 200 miles that day.

Edited by rob m
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Moolies.. or mooly in the singulary.


as per this little ditty.. what is also a song as can be sung to the tune of clementine. (In a fine and altogether authentic west country accent)

 


The Ballad of the Wogglers Mooly.


Joe, he was a young cordwangler,

Munging greebles he did go,

And he loved a bogler's daughter

By the name of Chiswick Flo.


Vain she was and like a grusset

Though her gander parts were fine,

But she sneered at his cordwangle

As it hung upon the line.


So he stole a woggler's mooly

For to make a wedding ring,

But the Bow Street Runners caught him

And the judge said "He will swing."


Oh, they hung him by the postern,

Nailed his mooly to the fence

For to warn all young cordwanglers

That it was a grave offence.


There's a moral to this story,

Though your cordwangle be poor,

Keep your hands off other's moolies,

For it is against the law.

 

and sing it we did.. without the west country accent as we went galumphing up the fine and bendy D612 to the fine and dangly little town of Saint-Pons-de-Thomières, which we managed to avoid at the last minute and headed out of Hérault and into Tarn.. because we could and isnt this a fine single malt what i have here to imbibe. so ner.


(hic)

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They aren't frites though - that looks like a stupid little bowl of McCains oven chips.

 

The menu said frites...and they tasted like frites but I get what you mean :D

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Wednesday 28th June

 

This was our day off which was instigated by me due to the weather conditions from the previous night and the forecast for the day. I was also tired :roll: It was already grim when we woke up and after the usual kickstart coffee we decided to air our dirty washing in public so it was off to the laundry. It was a much better idea bringing less clothes and washing them mid week, hence less packing. While the washing machine and dryer were doing their stuff, we sat in the bar area enjoying more coffee and looking out at the grim weather. Let me say that the smell of freshly washed towel when you're camping is a joy to behold. We noticed there were lots of mountain bikers around and also staying on the site from the day before. Turns out the MTB World Enduro Series was being held over the next couple of days in Millau and they were practicing the route. Rather them than us we thought, hacking it down mountains in the rain. Nutters, the lot of them :lol:

 

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Lunch was in a local cafe which served excellent food, however the weather soon turned to this:

 

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Tony was giving me accusing looks and he was almost tempted to head off out on his own but I managed to persuade him to sit in the bar all afternoon instead. I don't think he's going to ever let me forget that we could have gone out for a ride, even for a couple of hours :lol:

 

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The bar was filled with competing mountain bikers of all ages (some well into their 50's by the look of it) throughout the afternoon. We got chatting to a couple of young Irish lads who were competing who were very funny and entertained me with their spot on impressions of Mickey from the film Snatch. :D So Tony and I sat in the bar drinking and chatting away until around 6pm when the weather turned grim again. Back to the campsite, pizza for dinner with a couple of more beers served by a pretty waitress. Splendid.

 

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Anyway, the main thing we decided was to head off the following morning a day earlier than planned as the forecast really did look crap for the following few days. Looking back, this was a decision that paid off big time.

Edited by rob m
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Sitting on the verandah of a french bar drinking Pastis and watching the world go by.


I wasnt disappointed about losing a day.. it did look crap that morning and by the second.. or was it the 4th Pastis? I was past caring. Watching the 100s of Mountain Bikers coming and going I began to wonder what impact this would have on the area the next few days.. and when Rob suggested moving on. It seemed the right thing to do. We had had a great taste of that part of the Languedoc... the Grands Causses as well as the Haut languedoc. The mountain range we had crossed on our day out to the seaside all of it - spectacular and well worth a revisit. Easy enough to get to over a couple of days. Just a little more care taken choosing the campsite there which is easy enough given the time to suss various places out.


I was wondering where to go, which direction. rob had mentioned in passing on one of the days that he would have liked to have at least seen the Alps.. and to be honest we weren't all that far from them.. so looking at the maps I thought if we kinda head roughly north east... say in the general direction of Geneva. Then we should get an eyeful. I wanted to revisit the Jura... an area I passed through several years ago and the thought was from there head north towards the Southern Vosges.. perhaps the weather would be kind? otherwise we could head north and east and spend some time wending our way across france in the general direction of Calais. we had 3 days of pure pleasure riding left. with the final sunday being the usual motorway dash to the Tunnel.


So... looking at the map and wondering where to go... I had a campsite aimed specifically at bikers saved on my sat nav. https://www.lecampingmoto.net/index_EN.html which came highly recommended.. not just because it was aimed at bikers.. but also for its position. It was a bit too far south for my taste though...but. It gave me an idea... hmmmm.


Theres a road in France I did a little post about a few months ago... and guess what? its only 200 miles away and in the right direction too. (how spooky is that?)


I looked at a rather drunk rob... sat there with a glazed... "Who cares Im drunk" look on his face and announced. lets go to Combe Laval. :mrgreen:


cheers... More Pastis ??

 

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