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Chain/Sprockets for SV650S (2000)


Moonraker
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Good morning all,


So, I need to replace the chain/sprockets on my 2000 Suzuki SV650S (I've learned that this is a daily check requirement, lesson learned and all) and I'm doing little research as to what's best (and cheapest), but with long commute and a lot of riding on the bike, I need a good set.


So, my bike handbook explains that the chain on my has O-Rings and how they work, which is fine but when I look online for replacements, a lot of the items on offer are X-Rings.


My question is - is there any problem with me using an X-Ring chain/sprocket set on my bike? Or do I need to use the O-Rings? I'm told in the description of these items that the X-Rings are "exact replacements" but my knowledge of the chain etc is limited.


Also, which metal is best for a bike that is used often for commuting? Steel? Aluminium?


Thank you in advance.

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X-Ring/O-Ring either is fine, X-Ring is often advertised as better. Whether it is or not is probably debatable.


Here's a bit of info on em.


As for Steel/Aluminium, I assume you mean the bike itself and not the chain. In which case probably aluminium as it won't corrode like Steel will.


Mines aluminium and not a speck of rust at 15 years old :thumb:

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I'm pretty sure you can use either.


But what I do know is spending a bit more on a chain & sprockets is worth it. And spending more on it helped me take better care of if :lol:


Renthal sprockets and either a DID or Tsubaki chain :thumb:

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X-ring, O-ring... Pretty much the same. In theory the X-ring should keep the grease in the links and grime out better than an O-ring but otherwise they're the same. So long as you get the right chain width/length you'll be fine.


Steel sprockets will last longer than aluminium, especially if you're doing high mileage. Aluminium sprockets are lighter so aimed at performance minded people and to be honest, the on-road difference between the two is negligible. Even on track you'd be hard pushed to tell the difference.


If it were me in your commuting shoes I'd pick the cheaper (prob O-ring) chain and steel sprocket and keep on top of lubing it to get maximum life.

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I once put a £20 standard heavy duty chain on a GSXR 1100 because I was skint at the time. I kept it well lubed and it didn't stretch or break. Makes me wonder why I bother spending £ 120 on a DID ZVMX Gold "Professional" X ring chain these days. One thing I have experienced is that O rings and X rings can fool you into believing that a totally knackered chain has nothing wrong with it by making it run smoothly and quietly long past the point at which it should have been replaced. Lets be honest, who removes a chain to inspect it for wear once it has been riveted?

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Buy what you can afford and spray it with werth chain lube and you won't go far wrong, people will also tell you not to buy a chain with a split link which is bolloxs IMO, ridden a lot of mx bikes in my past that gave the chain a lot of abuse and all were split links with not one giving way and the luxury is you take a couple of links out when it stretches (would only do this once tho) and yes I've used them on road bikes including an sv and the firestorm which is brutal on chains,this is just my opion so don't blame me if it goes tits up

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Buy what you can afford and spray it with werth chain lube and you won't go far wrong, people will also tell you not to buy a chain with a split link which is bolloxs IMO, ridden a lot of mx bikes in my past that gave the chain a lot of abuse and all were split links with not one giving way and the luxury is you take a couple of links out when it stretches (would only do this once tho) and yes I've used them on road bikes including an sv and the firestorm which is brutal on chains,this is just my opion so don't blame me if it goes tits up

 

That's all good and well but I have ridden a bike with a split link that did give way!


How much do you value your legs if it does come apart?


Its like anything it's a risk if you are willing to take the risk then knock yourself out


I would rather minimise the risk of a chain coming apart and use a rivet link rather than a split link why have something else to keep an eye on although I suppose it will make you check the chain properly :lol:

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If you use a split link with the clip over the plates and it's all put together properly then it's just as good as as a riveted plate. You've gotta get a good rivet on the pins or it's gonna be even worse than a clip type. Both have plates with loose fit holes compared to the interference fit of the other links, the only thing is with riveting your own link you can make absolutely sure it's a good rivet - you don't know if someone's machined the groves for the clip wrong on the split type. Rivet probably is better if both done properly, but there's no problem with split links.

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Years back all chains were split link.......but they're a bit rarer these days.

Don't buy an Ognibene chain......The one on my Speedy is awful......it's not done so many miles, but it's got so many tight spots on it it's near impossible to set the slack correctly.......sprockets are still ok......so I think a new chain and new boots are required over the winter break...... :wink:

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Buy what you can afford and spray it with werth chain lube and you won't go far wrong, people will also tell you not to buy a chain with a split link which is bolloxs IMO, ridden a lot of mx bikes in my past that gave the chain a lot of abuse and all were split links with not one giving way and the luxury is you take a couple of links out when it stretches (would only do this once tho) and yes I've used them on road bikes including an sv and the firestorm which is brutal on chains,this is just my opion so don't blame me if it goes tits up

 

That's all good and well but I have ridden a bike with a split link that did give way!


How much do you value your legs if it does come apart?


Its like anything it's a risk if you are willing to take the risk then knock yourself out


I would rather minimise the risk of a chain coming apart and use a rivet link rather than a split link why have something else to keep an eye on although I suppose it will make you check the chain properly :lol:

 

I quite like me legs a bit skinny but they do the job, I also like buells so f**k it I'm going belt drive, job sorted :thumb:

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Which ever chain/sprocket set I pick up, is changing this something on the bike something I could do my self, as a rookie maintenance man? I can an oil change and over simple jobs but would changing sprockets and chain be a jump to far?

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If you use a split link, it's an easy job. If you use a rivet link, you will need a rivetter tool, about 50quid.Not everyone can use a rivetter properly. Split the old chain using an angle grinder, hammer and pin punch.

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  • 1 month later...

Further question


I've decided I don't know enough/don't haver the tools to change this myself but will trust. mechanic to do so.


Oner garage quoted that they'll use EK Kit over a DID chain, as they're "basically the same" but the EK is cheaper.


Anyone used an EK chain - all alright?

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I changed my sprockets and chain last month used DID Gold X-ring Chain & JT sprockets


DID is excellent quality and JT is used by some jap bikes as standard

they are steel and also great quality


I did the work myself using a Sealey-VS779 for £27.98 on Ebay


Good point to note:- if your happy with your gearing stick to stock size sprockets

or if you want more power but lower MPG go bigger on the back And/Or smaller on the front.............however Your a commuter

so i would say stock

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I changed my sprockets and chain last month used DID Gold X-ring Chain & JT sprockets


DID is excellent quality and JT is used by some jap bikes as standard

they are steel and also great quality


I did the work myself using a Sealey-VS779 for £27.98 on Ebay


Good point to note:- if your happy with your gearing stick to stock size sprockets

or if you want more power but lower MPG go bigger on the back And/Or smaller on the front.............however Your a commuter

so i would say stock

 

Thanks for this, I'll keep an eye out as it's always good to increase the tool selection.

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If you follow this guide You cant go wrong

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The bad reviews of the Sealy tool are written by mostly idiots who dont prepare the pin properly


Tool is MORE than capable as long as you use it the way it was meant to work

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