Stupid Questions

Ah yeah, for me it's always that really distinctive DR125 oil filter cover that I look for first

I agree on the twin exhaust ones, surely it's just one more thing to rot? If they want to go for that look, I wish they'd make a copy of the CM125 engine instead of just jamming a second pipe onto a CG

Like this ? http://i.imgur.com/lbhoDFX.jpg this is a twin by the way , seen in Coventry today.

Spot on

Another stupid question: is a "spark plug socket wrench" a normal sized socket (like a 4.5 or somthing ) but just refers to as a "spark plug socket" or is it a unique shaped socket purely used removing spark plugs?

(like a 4.5 or somthing )

Tho I imagen it to be bigger than 4.5

Another stupid question: is a "spark plug socket wrench" a normal sized socket (like a 4.5 or somthing ) but just refers to as a "spark plug socket" or is it a unique shaped socket purely used removing spark plugs?

It will be sized for the hex and different engines have different sizes, but it will be longer in the body to accommodate the porcelain top. Also there is a rubber insert in the body to grip the plug to help removal from deep pockets in the head.

my bike helpfully had a spark plug socket in the under seat toolkit

my bike helpfully had a spark plug socket in the under seat toolkit

You bike came with a tool kit?!

First thing tomorrow im searching my bile for one

A lot of bikes need a 12mm plug spanner/socket......but some need a 16mm one......best to check before buying one.......

Yeah, I've got one in my underseat toolkit too.......

Tore it apart. No tool kit. But I have lrbt note about taking my bike apart

Yesterday my front break felt a bit soft on the lever end.

The break still worked but the lever was just a lot more flexible than usual.

This morning the bike dropped on its side (because Im a knob and had it stood on grass and the stand sunk in to the mud) the front break lever has gone back to being les flexible more stiff but working fine (as far as I'm aware).

I'm trying to figure out what's changed from it falling on its side to cause this. I think it might have been the break fluid not refiling from the reservoir making the grip softer and the knock unblocked it and re filled the pipes (this is a guess I'm still new to bike mechanics)

And ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated

What is this? I was curious so I poked it then I pulled it and it came off.

If that is from a brake caliper it could be the sliding pin boot. usually filled with a grease to allow the caliper to slide freely.

Yep. It slides over that pin and into that hole in the caliper, at the centre of the picture.

Cool. Just need to get it back on and my bikes almost good as new

I'm not 100% on terminology but I will give it a shot.

On/in the throttle butter fly is a pin that goes threw the caroboretter and down to the fule resivor at the bottom. When the throttle is opened and the barrel/throttle butterfly moves up, is the pin supposed to move with it? At the moment its loosely sitting in the barrel.

carburettor**

Yes.....The pin should be attached to the slider......

Yes.....The pin should be attached to the slider......

Oh bugger

I'm not 100% on terminology but I will give it a shot.

On/in the throttle butter fly is a pin that goes threw the caroboretter and down to the fule resivor at the bottom. When the throttle is opened and the barrel/throttle butterfly moves up, is the pin supposed to move with it? At the moment its loosely sitting in the barrel.

That is not a throttle butterfly - you only get them in CV carbs (google it). It is a throttle slide, and yes, the needle should be attached to it. There should be 3 grooves at the top of the needle - there should be a small circlip that allows you to adjust the height of the carb needle. This alters the amount of fuel metered by the needle jet. I bet the circling is probably missing. Who has been effing about with the carb?

Yesterday my front break felt a bit soft on the lever end.

The break still worked but the lever was just a lot more flexible than usual.

This morning the bike dropped on its side (because Im a knob and had it stood on grass and the stand sunk in to the mud) the front break lever has gone back to being les flexible more stiff but working fine (as far as I'm aware).

I'm trying to figure out what's changed from it falling on its side to cause this. I think it might have been the break fluid not refiling from the reservoir making the grip softer and the knock unblocked it and re filled the pipes (this is a guess I'm still new to bike mechanics)

And ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated

Air in the brake line. When the bike was on its side, the air could have risen to the top of the fluid reservoir.

[Who has been effing about with the carb?

That would be me. I was atempting cleaning the jet when I saw the needle wasn't sitting properly and a poke reviled it was not clipped in

The needle probably was fitted OK until you dislodged it!

If you cannot remember where (which slot) the circlip was on, then use the middle one but be prepared to adjust if (when) the bike does not run right!

Although it is great that you are learning to dismantle and rebuild engines / carbs. You would be far better off waiting for your workshop manual to arrive - less issues like this happening then (I hope).

[Who has been effing about with the carb?

 

That would be me. I was atempting cleaning the jet when I saw the needle wasn't sitting properly and a poke reviled it was not clipped in

It's ok for the needle to wobble around a bit as long as it rises and falls with the slide .

New to the forum. Can anyone recommend the best place to buy a full repair kit for the carbs on my 1975 400/4. I have seen loads on eBay at various prices but also read not to buy the cheap sets from eBay. I need a full kit including o rings, jets and gaskets etc.