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CB250n 1978 restore or cafe racer


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Hi,

I am new to the forum having just picked up a barn find (genuine as been in the barn on a farm for 15 years).

It’s a real basket case as so much rust it’s going to be a real challenge to do anything.


After advice before wasting time on a pointless restoration project;

To restore it will have to be more of a rebuild as the rust and pitting is so bad there is no way it will restore to original so many parts will have to repainted to hid the mess.


With this in mind is it going to be a pointless restoration project as will add no value as will not be possible to get an original finish, I have always fancied doing a cafe racer so might be a better overall project as painted forks, chromes and engine won’t matter so much.


Just after people’s thoughts as hard to undue painting over things once started, just the bike has just turned 40 years old and runs so to good to scrap.


Thanks in advance and sorry for long intro.

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Sounds like an ideal subject for a " Restomod " This is a way of getting a worthless old bike back on the road using the minimum of effort, skill and expenditure. If something doesn't work or serve any purpose just chop it off with an angle grinder and chuck it away . Appearance doesn't seem to matter so the uglier you can make the bike , the better. If the bike has a kick start you can even throw away the battery and fit a cheap battery eliminator off a scooter. I'm no expert in these matters but I have recently learned that this style of bike is particularly popular in the United States.

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café racer because it already has café style lines. hold off on the grinder, thats for a bobber. racer means you strip out any excess weight. in 1978 the transistor already had been invented. nothing wrong with running the stock 12v electrical system. won't run without a battery without switching to led's. the scoot r/r is not for this project. the generic cn/ch 250 honda r/r is the modern replacement. its wiring is obvious even for the electrically challenged.


these builds are not that bad. start by downloading a manual from na honda twins or do the ton website. use modern parts where ever you can because it makes life easier and they are dirt cheap. gloss black paint is your friend. sh*tty chrome can clean up. use steel wool first on the bad areas then aluminum foil and a little motor oil. it's a chemical reaction.


the roads are bad here so I ordered the biggest tires that fit. measure how much room you have and order tires. you can't do tires yourself if you don't have tools. get some pro tire irons and you can master any job. you definitly want to put modern 2rs sealed wheel bearings. order a kit off the net for your bike or wack them out and measure them like I do. the starter and clutch mechanism and chain removes easily if you are badass. a rubber freeze plug covers the hole. rebuild the brakes.


you will want a new petcock. chinese petcocks get ordered by size of the engine. bigger is better. there are 2 types on the net. the kind that is pressed is junk the one with screws is good.


how is the seat? post a pic.

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"You will want a new petcock. chinese petcocks get ordered by size of the engine. bigger is better. there are 2 types on the net. the kind that is pressed is junk the one with screws is good "

This is absolutely priceless . Random gibberish has been taken to new heights . 😂😂😂

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this one is bad


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-Valve-Switch-Gas-Petcock-For-Honda-CB550F-CB750F-CB550-CB750K-16mm/283530238864?hash=item4203b81b90%3Ag%3AIx0AAOSw9yZdFYeU&LH_BIN=1


this one is good


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-Petcock-Valve-fit-for-Honda-CB350-CB400-CB750-CB900-CX500-CX500C/113730344981?hash=item1a7adb5815%3Ag%3AsNEAAOSw%7ECVcxD1%7E&LH_BIN=1


I wouldent buy the one for the z-50 engine, size matters. the stock type with two outlets is 18.50$ but I'm running on the good one with the brass inlet and screws with no issues. the other type is crap. restomod means using cheap new parts that work. I've given you good advise because I've used this part for 2,000 miles no issues. the pressed type leaked on me from day one and is not rebuildable.


I know a lot of bike specific repairs to your honda because I own another one in the series. my third one. I've also rebuilt a '68 superhawk and a cb350 '74 and my current cb360 lemon. you have a good bike with a solid engine with the cam slipper tensioner in the right place. I swapped out the cv carbs. the new carbs costs less than the rebuild kit. I'll make a post for you. look for it. that chrome in the video is not rusted. mine were much worse.

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Impossible to tell without pictures, one man's basket case is another's ride to work bike.


If the engine is still good then find a good bike with a dead motor and swap them around, this will likely make economic sense when you start adding up the price of parts even if the frame is basically sound.

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fastbob relax, obviously I know a lot about ordering and using generic parts. whats wrong with this picture? works fine. whats wrong with ordering parts by spec and price. after 2k I should know if it works or not.


20190826-075514.jpg

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fastbob relax, obviously I know a lot about ordering and using generic parts. whats wrong with this picture? works fine. whats wrong with ordering parts by spec and price. after 2k I should know if it works or not.


20190826-075514.jpg

 

Then you won't find ordering a cam cover gasket too much of a challenge . Or is that another "Restomod" ?

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Then you won't find ordering a cam cover gasket too much of a challenge . Or is that another "Restomod" ?

 


no thats called a bodge. don't know why brits hate rtv. ultra black is my friend. its not leaking oil and that all I care about.



there is a large difference in quality of bootleg honda parts. the non rebuildible is crap. the one with the brass inlet works well I think I paid 9.50$ for two. at those prices I did not feel bad about ordering a spare.

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Then you won't find ordering a cam cover gasket too much of a challenge . Or is that another "Restomod" ?

 


no thats called a bodge. don't know why brits hate rtv. ultra black is my friend. its not leaking oil and that all I care about.



there is a large difference in quality of bootleg honda parts. the non rebuildible is crap. the one with the brass inlet works well I think I paid 9.50$ for two. at those prices I did not feel bad about ordering a spare.

 

Why do you need a spare. Is the one you have bought c**p and going to need to be replaced in the near future? Just asking.

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Why do you need a spare. Is the one you have bought c**p and going to need to be replaced in the near future? Just asking.

 

I think Bob has tried everything with this guy so I highly doubt logic is going to work.

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Why do you need a spare. Is the one you have bought c**p and going to need to be replaced in the near future? Just asking.

 

I think Bob has tried everything with this guy so I highly doubt logic is going to work.

 


we have alcohol in our gas, 10 percent ethanol. it kills rubber parts. its cheaper to buy a spare petcock than a replacement petcock gasket. bob has not been helping.

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Why do you need a spare. Is the one you have bought c**p and going to need to be replaced in the near future? Just asking.

 

I think Bob has tried everything with this guy so I highly doubt logic is going to work.

 


we have alcohol in our gas, 10 percent ethanol. it kills rubber parts. its cheaper to buy a spare petcock than a replacement petcock gasket. bob has not been helping.

 

We have gas in our alcohol . :cheers:

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