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Bike issues


Daytona79
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I have a Yamaha mt125 2016 plate and i am having a couple of issues with it. The problems are all electrics based twice now the bike has cut out on me the first was my fault. I stalled the bike coming home from work and it was like the eletrics were dead. The bike wouldnt restart , the starter seemed dead and the bike in 2mins went too battery low. I did eventually get the bike started after switching it on and off repeatedly and waiting 30 secs in between. The bikes engine management light came on but once i got it going went off and hasnt being on since.


Next similar happened last night riding into work i was sitting waiting at a set of traffic lights the engine on thebike just cut out. I tried to restart it and no joy. I eventually pushed the bike off the road, and did the same again repeatedly and the bike eventually fired up. No warning lights or no low battery sign.


The bike has ran okay and being brill so far but these last 2 weeks has began worrying me. I commute 26 miles too and from work 4 days a week. The first time i had the issues was after the freezing cold weather. The bike was serviced at 4000-4500 miles and no issues till lately, when i am riding it now its like there is a short at times in the electrics.


The bike is due a service now i am gunna book it in on Monday. Has anyone any ideas whats causing the electrics issues?? i am praying for not a huge bill.

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First check you have a good battery, then take a look at all electrical connector for loose/burnt connections

 

People often assume that riding the bike will keep the battery fully charged. It doesn't, charging systems replace the charge used to start the engine but if the battery was low to begin with it doesn't get fully recharged just by riding it. At this time of year batteries have a hard life, cold doesn't do them any favours. On small engined bikes with smaller batteries the charging system often runs the current used by lights etc but doesn't put a lot back into the battery so they run most of the time only partially charged.


A multimeter is a cheap tool and one that is essential. Check the battery voltage after it's been left overnight. You're looking for over 12.5v. Anything 12.3 or under and the battery is almost discharged.


A battery below 12v won't take a charge usually. You can 'prime' them by charging at very low input current - around 500Ma or less. A plug in gel cell charger does the trick nicely. Once back above 12v they will then take a conventional charge.

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First check you have a good battery, then take a look at all electrical connector for loose/burnt connections

 

People often assume that riding the bike will keep the battery fully charged. It doesn't, charging systems replace the charge used to start the engine but if the battery was low to begin with it doesn't get fully recharged just by riding it. At this time of year batteries have a hard life, cold doesn't do them any favours. On small engined bikes with smaller batteries the charging system often runs the current used by lights etc but doesn't put a lot back into the battery so they run most of the time only partially charged.


A multimeter is a cheap tool and one that is essential. Check the battery voltage after it's been left overnight. You're looking for over 12.5v. Anything 12.3 or under and the battery is almost discharged.


A battery below 12v won't take a charge usually. You can 'prime' them by charging at very low input current - around 500Ma or less. A plug in gel cell charger does the trick nicely. Once back above 12v they will then take a conventional charge.

What you say about batteries is very interesting and you clearly know what you are talking about.

Could you post a couple of examples of the "Gel cell charger" you use or the spec for it.

Cheers

Ian

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First check you have a good battery, then take a look at all electrical connector for loose/burnt connections

 

People often assume that riding the bike will keep the battery fully charged. It doesn't, charging systems replace the charge used to start the engine but if the battery was low to begin with it doesn't get fully recharged just by riding it. At this time of year batteries have a hard life, cold doesn't do them any favours. On small engined bikes with smaller batteries the charging system often runs the current used by lights etc but doesn't put a lot back into the battery so they run most of the time only partially charged.


A multimeter is a cheap tool and one that is essential. Check the battery voltage after it's been left overnight. You're looking for over 12.5v. Anything 12.3 or under and the battery is almost discharged.



Check on Ctek web page, they have variety of chargers/tenders, not cheep but it work, my batteries last for years, and my bike is in hibernation half of the year.

A battery below 12v won't take a charge usually. You can 'prime' them by charging at very low input current - around 500Ma or less. A plug in gel cell charger does the trick nicely. Once back above 12v they will then take a conventional charge.

What you say about batteries is very interesting and you clearly know what you are talking about.

Could you post a couple of examples of the "Gel cell charger" you use or the spec for it.

Cheers

Ian

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Some chargers refuse to charge if the battery voltage is low but it's usually something like 8v. Don't leave a gel charger on for long, they hold the absorption voltage (14.4v) for a couple of hours as the gel electrolyte takes longer to charge.


Some chargers have a gel setting, I've just had to buy one for the van £70 😭

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Something went wrong with previous post,

Check on Ctek web page they have variety of chargers, tenders, not cheep but it works for me and my bike spend half year in hibernation.

 

The Lidl version is £13.99 and it's got an LCD screen. Got one on the scoot 👍

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I checked that Lidl charger, but I didn’t like it, as instruction says that battery have to be disconnected from car of motorcycle before connecting to the charger. Don’t work for me.

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I checked that Lidl charger, but I didn’t like it, as instruction says that battery have to be disconnected from car of motorcycle before connecting to the charger. Don’t work for me.

 

They all say that. If you buy a CTEK they do an extension lead that you can leave permanently connected to the battery and it makes connecting the charger simple. They also do one with LEDs that flashes green, yellow or red to indicate the battery charge.

 

IMG_20200126_112908716.thumb.jpg.7b7ba06cab8018a38c36ccc2022c6662.jpg

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I use an optimate charger that connects to the battery on the bike. The instructions do not say to remove battery, only remove if the vehicle instructions say to remove battery.

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No it doesnt have an alarm fitted. I just hoping its a cheap fix, i am going to ring the garage this afternoon as the oil service lights on. I am hoping its not the alternator and its just a new spark plug or battery or fuse or something.


I had an aprilia rs 125 years ago, and i remember it having a similar issue and the rac guy came out and he just changed what looked like a fuse or something and the bike worked fine after that. The knackered fuse was stopping the bikes battery getting enough charge. The bike sounds terrible on occasions its like its making an electric short circuit noise. I have checked the battery and the clips etc look fine.

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. The bike sounds terrible on occasions its like its making an electric short circuit noise. I have checked the battery and the clips etc look fine.

 

An electric short circuit noise is soften a crack or pop followed by magic smoke. Then thing stop working.

By noise do you mean a crackle or zingy noise. If so this could be a loose connection and the noise is arcing. In the dark this would show up as sparks.

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