QBoiii Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 Ive had my bike of the road for a few weeks now whilst do the clutch. Unfortunately life has got in the way a little bit and I am on the search for a torque wrench that goes low enough to torque up my clutch bolts. Yesterday whilst manoeuvring around the bike I noticed a small stain on the concrete around the front wheel. Upon closer inspection, there is a puddle in the wheel itself and it looks like the brake line which was already a braided aftermarket one, has split where it is held onto the fork. The top of the rubber grommet-type thing is bone dry and the bottom soaking wet. Ive begun the hunt for some new braided lines to replace this and it looks as though the brake pads have absorbed some of the fluid so they will be getting changed to. The level in the reservoir hasn't dropped much but I may as well do the whole lot. Will I need a new tyre? It looks ok to me, but I'm unsure how long its been sitting in the fluid and I'm aware that brake fluid is hygroscopic so absorbs moisture but I don't know what this means for the tyre. Thanks in advance for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbob Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 No you won't need a new tyre , just give it a scrub with soapy water . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynax Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 If you need a torque wrench, get yourself to screwfix pdq, as they are still open but for how long no one knows But only if it is essential Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QBoiii Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 [mention]fastbob[/mention] [mention]dynax[/mention] Thank you both very much! I'm glad the tyre can be salvaged I borrowed a torque wrench from work, only upon trying to set it to the 8nm I needed did I realise that it started at 30nm. I then borrowed one from the motor club on base which started at 10nm. I was tempted to use this but It hadn't been zeroed before it was put away so the already risky 10nm could have been a lot higher. I'll swing past screwfix on the way back. Thanks again chaps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 Do not try to torque those bolts! you will more than likely strip the threads! What clutch bolts are you talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QBoiii Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Do not try to torque those bolts! you will more than likely strip the threads! What clutch bolts are you talking about? the 8 bolts that hold the clutch together with springs (4 short, 4 long). I thought these needed to be torqued to 8nm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 Do not try to torque those bolts! you will more than likely strip the threads! What clutch bolts are you talking about? the 8 bolts that hold the clutch together with springs (4 short, 4 long). I thought these needed to be torqued to 8nm? just nip them up they won't go anywhere the springs will hold them 8nm is pretty much that anyway The settings are for new clean threads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QBoiii Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Thanks [mention]Stu[/mention] ! To be honest, knowing that was a low setting I was going to go with one white knuckle but i had read horror stories about people over tightening them and them shattering, and undertightening then and them shaking themselves loose. Ill try and just nip them up like you said, thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Frog Posted March 24, 2020 Share Posted March 24, 2020 If you are that worried about under tightening them then I would go with Stu`s suggestion but use a little Loctite first.CheersIan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QBoiii Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Thats a brilliant idea [mention]Ian Frog[/mention] that will deffinately be getting done! Thank you very much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QBoiii Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Got down on my knees, back and all sorts of strange yoga positions tonight to try and get to the bottom of this leak. I look off the clip holding the hose to the forks and to my surprise i couldn't find a split! I de-greased the area and kept squeezing the brake lever hoping to find a leak but to no avail. I then saw some liquid on the fender/wheel cover type thing and looked up to see moisture where the plastic dust cap meets the metal fork. I really hoe its not the fork seals as these have only been replaced at the tail end of summer! Ive included some pics which I can only apologise for the quality for. Long day at work. hanging out from that then two young kids to deal with and put in bed so by the time I got to my bike i was blowing out my I've messaged the guy who did my fork seals as i thought they were still leaking before but he told me it could be pitting picking up bits of oil but this is a full puddle on my floor in the few weeks the bike hasn't moved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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