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BMW K75RT Ultima Restoration


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Check the hose fittings - sometimes they have a cutaway that is supposed to be under the

the banjo bolt head - the non-cutaway face on the fitting goes to the caliper....if the hose is installed with the fitting reversed, this can lead to non-seal type situations that apparently need multiple washers to sort out. But its because the hose wont lie flat on the caliper.

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  • 2 months later...

After a break from the project due to a secret project (see future posts) and various other things, it struck me that everything currently assembled had been sorted bar the wheels, so it was on with that!


The handlebars were tied back on both sides with bungees, to keep them straight...


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... and the back end of the bike was tied down to lift the front wheel off the ground the front brake calipers were removed, to allow the front wheel to be dropped out, the axle replaced, the calipers bolted back on and an axle stand popped in place...


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... and the rear strap slowly released to lower the front onto the stand. This lifted the rear end up to allow the rear wheel to be dropped out and another axle stand popped in place under the rear wheel hub bolts.


The bike was checked to ensure if was stable...


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... and a dust sheet chucked over the bike for the time being.


The wheels where inspected and found to be solid so they were given a good clean and checked over again. Unfortunately both valves were cracked and perished...


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... there were marks on the wheels where they'd been removed previously...


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... in short, the valves need replacing and the wheels need repainting. So I had the tyres popped off at a local garage, leaving the bare wheels ready to start the repainting.


The wheels where soaked in motorcycle cleaner, in the only tub I have that's big enough (known as a bath tub!) and cleaned off to as much of the remaining grime as possible and then allowed to dry off...


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... so the wheels can again be inspected before I proceed.


With all being good, it was time to take the front wheel bearings out. An internal bearing driver was put in place and expanded...


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...the hub was gently heated with a blowtorch, the wheel was turned over and a box spanner was used to bear against the driver. The bearing was driven out with a few sharp blows, also allowing the spacer to drop out of the wheel.


With the spacer out, an internal puller was used to draw out the remaining bearing...


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... leaving the wheel bare. The bores were inspected and found to be good so the painting process could begin.


All of the high spots and dings in the wheel were identified and sanded back to remove them wherever reasonably possible with the remainder were minimised as best I could. This allowed the wheel to be rubbed down with 600 grit wet and dry paper...


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... and rubbed down with thinner.


The bearing bores and brake disc mating faces were masked up...


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... and trimmed back, using a small pin hammer against the edges to cut the masking back...


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... to exactly mask the area needed.


With the wheel masked up, this was given a further rub down with thinners and coat of etch primer...


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... before being left to cure and knocked back with 600 grit wet and dry paper and a tac-cloth used, followed by a rub with a tac-cloth and a second coat with a smooth off with 2000 grit wet and dry paper, with the etch primer being touched up where needed.


Once that was all cured, each wheel in turn had a coat of E-Tech Silver Alloy Wheel Paint using the same tac-cloth and sandpaper routine per coat for a further 2 coats. The wheels were then put aside to cure for a week.


Once cured, the same technique was used for the E-Tech Alloy Wheel Lacquer coats and put aside to cure ...


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... while that was curing the hub had exactly the same treatment.


The next was refitting the wheel bearings, well it would have been if the parts that arrived were actually those I thought I'd ordered - it turns out that the standard multi-spoke wheel takes different bearings to the optional 3-spoke wheel (which requires a 12mm & a 16mm depth bearing), so a new set was ordered.


With the brake disc used to save the new paintwork on the underside of the wheel, the hub was gently heated to expand the recess. The bearings were retrieved from the freezer (to make them as small as possible) and slotted into place, using the old bearing...


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... as a spacer to drive the new piece home. Once in, the wheel was turned over and the central spacer fitted with the bearings fitted on that side by the same process and the circlips added.


The front brake discs were inspected the bolts, washers and nuts were replaced with new bits and the thickness of the discs checked and found to be in tolerance. The disc was also placed flat on a known even surface (my kitchen worktop) and the distance from the surface to the top of the disc was measured in a number of places - all measurements on each disc matched, so no significant warping there - on the front wheel they went and were torqued down with new bolts.


As the old tyres were over 10 years old (despite them being in good condition), they were replaced with new rubber at a local garage...


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... allowing the rear wheel to be popped back on followed by the hub and the rear mudguard. The back end was strapped down, to raise the front end off the axle stand.


The front axle stand and brake calipers were removed to allow access and the axle popped out so the front wheel could be fitted...


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... the calipers replaced and the ABS sensor gap checked and found to be good.


So, the BMW can now be taken off the table when I need to, spot on! Everything bolted on is now sorted - bar the snagging later.


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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  • 3 months later...

As the rest of the bike has moved on nicely, it was time to start paying a little attention to the tank as that was the only remaining component stopping the bike from being fired up.


So, the fuel tank was pulled out (shame about the slight damage to the side of it really, as otherwise it's perfect)...


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... the dregs of fuel remaining were siphoned out and the fuel filler cap removed, detaching the fuel pump and filter and removing the fuel level sender unit as well as easing off the tank badges with a hairdryer and a plastic scraper.


The tank was then left to one side to air, just in case I want to paint it - so that will be a 2 week wait for that to be safe to proceed.


Once aired the tank was popped onto the bench to allow the internals to be inspected to ensure there was no rust or debris present...


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... before the exterior of the tank was inspected and the paint defects marked...


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... confirming the work I'd need to do to the paintwork. With that in mind the filler cap hole was masked off to protect the internals from dust and paint, as well as the openings on the underside so that I could concentrate on getting the top surface ready for repainting.


The tank was then rubbed down with 600 grit wet and dry paper to give a good key, before filling all of the dings with filler...


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... allowing the filler to go off before rubbing that back too, with the process repeated until I was happy with the surface.


Following that, primer was laid on, allowed to cure and rubbed down with 2000 grit wet and dry paper, before being topped off with the colour coat. This was given the same preparation treatment before the clear petrol resistant lacquer was added...


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... which again was allowed to cure before a couple of coats of petrol resistant lacquer and allowed to cure for the last time, over a week or so to ensure everything was set.


The internals started with the fuel level sender, which was popped on the bench which was visually and electrically checked over...


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and found to be fully functioning, so the o-ring was refitted and bolted back into the tank ensuring that the float and arm were correctly located along the inside edge of the tank and free to move...


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... allowing me to move onto the fuel pump assembly, which span up cleanly when powered up. As this all looks good the pump was reinstalled, which took a fair amount of wiggling to get it to seat correctly and attach the wiring was made easier by removing the pipework from the pump, which was then reinstalled...


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... which then allowed the filter to be fitted to the fixed pipework in the tank...


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... ... finishing off the internals.


The next bit was to fit the cap. So, as usual, this was grabbed and popped on the bench with the spare bike keys...


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... the original key is somewhere in the garage, so that's a full search another time!


The seal ring was cleaned up to ensure a good fit and the latch mechanism was removed to allow the whole unit to be cleaned up, the latch spring was greased and refitted. This allowed the inner seal and latch mechanism to be suitable lubricated and refitted...


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... this was test fitted into the tank...


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... highlighting how bad the ring around the fuel cap looks, so the cap tank was popped off and the offending paintwork sorted out...


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.. allowing the tank to be fitted back to the bike, the ignition was turned on and the engine turned over, to ensure the pump primed and rotated properly.


The last piece of the puzzle was fitting new BMW decals...


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... of an upgraded metallic type, shipped in from the USA. The tank pad will be fitted once the seat is done to ensure alignment.


The tank had half a litre of fuel put in, the ignition turned on and the button pressed... it started and ran for about a minute before dying. I added a further 4 litres of fuel and it fired up, with a little choke and ran. I let in run for a few minutes and everything sounded OK and the oil level in the sump dropped, so that is getting moved around too.


Time for a cuppa!


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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On to the front mudguard, because it's as good a bit of bodywork to start with as any, as usual I started by gathering up and laying out all of the bits...


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... allowing me to order replacement nuts and bolts as required.


The mudguards were filled where needed, sanded back to form a good key for painting and remove the decals before, alongside the tail fairing, getting etch primer, colour and lacquer coats...


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... as with all my bikes, the lacquer is petrol resistant, just in case.


The fender extender was cleaned up and pop riveted through the original holes...


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... before the tails were snapped off and tidied up. As this was through plastic I didn't want to chance ruining the paintwork by letting them pop off under the pressure of the rivet gun.


The front of the mudguard was slotted into place...


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... and loosely held in with the bolts, before the rubbers for the brake line were added, the groves very lightly lubricated with a smear of WD-40, and the rear section wiggled into place...


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... all 5 bolts were tightened down and the job was done.


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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Not long till the roll out by the look of it . We expect nothing less than a proper photo shoot in an attractive setting to do full justice to your meticulous work . 👍

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  • 2 weeks later...

I wasn't looking forwards to the work required to get the paint right on the side and front fairings, so after the mudguards were started I went for the next smallest bit... the tail fairing, entirely missing the complexity of the shape until someway in. But, as usual, I started at the start by getting it all together...


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... so I could identify everything I needed to order and get it on the way.So to start the tail fairing was rubbed down with 1000 grit wet and dry paper and prepare the rough areas for filling and getting the remaining stickers removed, the filler was mixed and applied...


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... and the filled areas were then again rubbed back as before being rinsed off and allowed to dry. The base of the unit was masked off as well as the opening in the unit and the leading edge...


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... so it was ready for some paint. As usual this consisted of etch primer, colour coat and petrol resistant lacquer, with each coat being allowed to cure and then rubbed back before the next.


Once painted the tail unit was offered up to the bike before being bolted into place and a new rear cover badge applied...


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... just leaving the grab handles and rear rack to go.


The grab handles were given the same treatment as the tail fairing, filling, rubbing back and masking up the handles...


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... before etch primer, colour coat and petrol resistant lacquer, before being put aside to cure.


The rear rack was in fairly good condition, so it was just given a refresh with the problem areas being rubbed back and repainted so the back end could be rebuilt...


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... allowing the electronics and cradle to be reinstated, and finishing the back end off.


It's worth saying here that there is an imminent house move coming up, so the posts may drop off for a while - be assured that they will resume ASAP!


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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  • 3 months later...

Next on the list was the seat, so this popped up on the bench...


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... and the fittings from the underside removed to allow the seat to be cleaned up both on the underside, as well as the top, which then allowed the grooves left from storage were gently warmed with a hair dryer and massaged out.


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At this point our house move was finalised, so a break in proceedings was called for.


Once the move was complete and some vague approximation of a workshop had been set up (or a bit of wood laid across a few boxes), the fittings were stripped back and treated to etch primer, gloss black and lacquer, before these were allowed to cure off.


Once cured the parts were reassembled and any corroded or damaged fasteners replaced and the main bracket fitted to the rear of the frame through the bodywork...


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... so the seat could be be offered up and slid onto the hinge before securing with the clip...


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... followed by the central stay, and finally the rear stay, allowing the seat to be closed and adjusted to fit the locking mechanism.


The seat was given another clean with motorcycle cleaner and a small section of old carpet...


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... as it's a little abrasive, but not a lot.


Lastly was the tank pad, which was cleaned up before double sided tape was applied and trimmed back with a scalpel...


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... before fixing it to the tank to protect this from damage where the seat may rub...


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... finishing the job!


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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  • 1 month later...

Moving on with the bodywork with the next in the line, the side panels. As usual all the bits were laid out so they could be checked over...


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… so I could see everything was OK, the side panels needed repainting, but I knew that, and there were a few broken lugs on one panel, but I decided to start with the smaller infill panels.


These infill panels have a foam trim which has very much suffered over time, leaving them looking a little worse for wear…


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… so the offending foam was taken off, with as much residue as possible, before being cleaned up with WD-40 and a rag before a length of rubber U-channel was obtained and glued onto the edges previously occupied by the foam.


This was achieved with superglue with the first section glued in place before cuts in the rubber were made to allow the rubber to bend around the corners, allowing the next section to be glued and held for a few minutes to allow it to cure.


By repeating this process, the rubber was applied where foam had previously been which was put aside to completely cure off, I’d say for about an hour, before I came back with a scalpel and cut the overlapping rubber away to neaten up the finish…


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… finishing off the smaller infill panels.


Now, onto the broken lugs where the fasteners had been over-tightened previously a fair amount of damage was caused. To keep as much original material as possible, broken off sections were refitted with JB Weld…


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… although not the neatest job in the world, this was a solid fix and base for the rest of the lug.


For the remainder I used a Plastex bodywork repair kit, with various videos for this online, I’m not going to repeat that advice and guidance here. Suffice to say it was a bit more fiddly and cumbersome on my first go, but again the results were OK and solid. This was sanded back and compared to the same lug on the opposing fairing...


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... showing a good match that will be painted up to blend it in later.


Next was onto the presented faces of the fairings themselves. These were cleaned thoroughly and allowed to dry so the damage could be clearly seen...


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... so raised areas were sanded back, while low areas were filled using a standard bodywork filler and once set, this was sended back ready for painting allowing these to be degreased and tac-clothed to remove the loose debris before primer coats, colour coats and petrol resistant lacquer, leaving a couple of days between paint type and then being set aside to cure off.


Once cured, the fittings could be rebuilt, starting with the addition of the bottom rubber seal to sit against the engine casing which was push-fitted before moving onto the top mounting panel, which was cleaned up with WD-40 and had new fittings (as the old were looking very old indeed)...


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... allowing the small infill panel to be treated to new fittings and bolted onto the fairing with the required fairing clips fitted to the lugs, finishing the bench top work for these.


The panel was offered up to the bike, to ensure all the mounting points would align and the fairing was bolted into place...


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... finishing that job up.


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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  • 1 month later...

Moving onto the radiator cover, which was popped on the bench...


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... ... and stripped back by removing all of the attachments, fixings and seals to leave bare panels, so these can all be laid out, with those bits not needing paint were pull out to be set aside.


For painting, first up was the radiator grill which was cleaned up with a wire brush and air blown clean before a couple of layers of silver paint were used...


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... to get this looking a bit better.


Next up was the grill surround, which was rubbed back before a number of etch primer, colour and lacquer coats...


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... which was then set aside to cure off.


The radiator cover bodywork was next on the list on which the defects were marked up to highlight them...


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... and filler applied to the marked dings before this was allowed to cure and harden before it is taken back to a smooth surface with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper and cleaned thoroughly.


From there a couple of coats of Halfords Etch Primer were applied...


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... before a couple of coats of Halfords BMW Arctic Silver, topped with Halfords Petrol Resistant Lacquer.


Once cured the part was checked over, and a defect was found indicating the lacquer had gone on to thickly...


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... so the section was sanded back and colour coat and lacquer reapplied, once done this was allowed to cure off.


While this was curing, the black plastic bits were pulled together and cleaned up with a rag moistened WD-40...


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... then left to dry off in the sun.


With all the painted parts cured off, they were all put back on the bench...


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... and reassembled using the original fixings, as they were in fairly good condition, resulting in a unit, I think, looks great...


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... but, of course, is not yet complete.


The foam strip for the top of the grill surround had some double sided tape applied, and carefully attached back to in place...


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... finishing off the back and allowing the bodywork to be offered up to check alignment and to remind me to pop new fairing bolt clips on the locations of the side fairings this bolts to.


From there the side grill and one of the fork shrouds was fixed in place...


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... as the other needs the brake and ABS lines to be fitted before they can be.


With that all done the radiator cover was offered up and held in place to ensure alignment and allowing me to 'wiggle' the fairing clips into the right position...


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... so I was happy with the fitting and that I hadn't missed something.


Once I was happy with everything lining up, the cover was loosely bolted into place and popped the brake and ABS lines into approximately the right position mainly to make sure I had not made a colossal cock up with the rigid brake line!


This allowed my to bolt the cover fully into place and slide the lines into their recesses...


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... and pushing (with only a small amount of swearing!) the rubber grommets into place, meaning I was then able to fit the other fork shroud...


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... being careful not to mark or damage the paint I've worked so hard on!


All that means I could stand back and see what I had completed and check there was nothing missing...


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... thankfully everything was where it should be and that meant another job jobbed!


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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The next step to battle my way through is the large front fairing, to give myself a chance of staying as sane as I currently am, I’ve broken this down into much smaller jobs, some to happen before the fairing is fitted, some during, some after – first up we’re the indicators.


On first inspection these all looked good, so I hooked a spare battery up to the lamp terminals…


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… and both were found to be operational.


From here the body and lenses were cleaned up with a little WD-40 on a rag, and the terminals checked before being gently cleaned with a little fine grit sandpaper then each lamp holder was plugged into the wiring loom to test the system…


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… which worked a treat, just as soon as I remembered to reconnect the battery!


All was good, until I gave the lenses a final check and found a small crack, but given the amount of work I’d put in already, a replacement was sourced, inspected and found to be defect free, tested and put with the other ready for the front fairing.


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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The next step on the road to front fairing was the headlight. Which I popped the lens off of and found the reflector in really good condition...


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... so all that had was a wipe over with a lint free cloth.


The lens had come away with the foam seal, so this was eased off the glass with a series of gentle pulls along it's length, inspected and with no defect seated back into the headlight housing, allowing me to focus on the lens.


Like most things in my world, the lens was cleaned up with a little WD-40 on a rag...


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... before being checked to see if it was good to use. Unfortunately there were 2 stone chips in the lens...


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... consist of the age of the bike, but not ideal.


Again, with the amount of work I'd put in so far it was a shame not to get a defect-free replacement part, so one was sourced and the damaged lens swapped out.


With that as it is, the headlight was rebuilt and functionally tested by hooking it up to a spare battery...


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... confirming the headlight lamp were operational.


Next up was the sidelight lamp, which when connected to the battery failed to light up, so this was removed and the lamp seen to have blown. With the lamp removed the holder was tested for continuity and found to be working fine, so just a replacement lamp needed, which was ordered.


The body of the headlight was, again, cleaned up with a little WD-40 on a rag...


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... before being set aside to await the sidelight lamp.


Thankfully I was able to pick up a replacement lamp from Halfords and got this fitted, allowing me to properly test the lamp holder which was found to be in fine working order, so the unit was put aside ready for the front fairing.


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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  • 2 weeks later...

Now, I've not been looking forward to this giant lump of fairing, but here we go!


To start, the RT badge was heated with a hair dryer so this could be easily eased off, leaving me with the bare fairing which was rubbed down with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper to prepare it for painting...


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... and thoroughly cleaned with clean water, hand dried and allowed to further air dry for a few hours before filler was applied to the imperfections and allowed to set overnight.


From there, with a fair amount of effort, a sunny morning and more 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper, the fairing was properly rubbed down...


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... followed by another wash and dry.


Once dry the fairing was cleaned with a Tac-Cloth and then white spirit, allowed to completely dry before a couple of coats of Halfords Etch Primer and allowed to cure overnight before flattening off with 2000 grit paper, cleaned, dried and finally 3 coats of top coat...


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... and allowed to cure overnight.The preparation work was completed again before 3 coats of Autotek Clear Lacquer and allowed to cure for the final time.


Meanwhile the bottom section of the fairing was inspected and found to be defect free, so was cleaned up with WD-40 on a rag...


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... and allowed to dry off while the fixings were replaced with stainless steel alternatives.


With the fairing cured, the indicators were slotted in and bolted...


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... before the rubber seal was fitted into headlight and the unit was bolted into the fairing...


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... checked for fit and, thankfully, all good!


The mounting points were given new fairing clips before fitting the infill panel to the underside of the fairing...


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... ready for test fitting.


The fairing was slotted onto the bike and secured with the 4 fixings surrounding the headlight, to allow all of the alignment to be checked...


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... which all looked good, bar 2 fixings, unfortunately the 2 most difficult to alter - the 2 frame mounts, hidden behind the lower fairings...


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... and all looked good, so everything was rebuilt, including the internal infill panel, leaving the front fairing fitted!


From there was the wiring connections, because I had labelled all of these when I was disassembling the bike, this was just a case of reading - removing the label - plugging in.


Once completed, each of the electrical components were tested in turn, starting with indicators...


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... then the sidelight and headlight (both main and dipped beam)...


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... finishing off the electrical installation, so job done! You can't believe how much I'm glad that's over, I'm definitely not a fan of painting, but it's got to be done!


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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  • 2 weeks later...

With the front fairing on, it was time to get the next biggest piece out of the way, partly as it get fits directly onto the fairing and partly because I don't want to move it to get to other parts anymore!


So, again as usual, all the components were laid out on the bench...


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... and I firstly concentrated on the base, which looked in good condition and as this worked well no intervention was needed, so the mechanism was removed from the mounting plate, allowing this to be cleaned up.


Of course, this was done with a rag and WD-40. Because when you can't cleanse with fire only WD-40 will do! So the underside was cleaned, followed by the top side...


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... once I was happy with that the mechanism was reattached and the components here-in were concentrated on, including removing the return springs, so these can be inspected, cleaned (again with WD-40 on a rag - I've got a good collection of WD-40 soaked rags now!) and reattached to it's mounting points with a spring puller, for ease, and the remainder of the mechanism was cleaned up...


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... allowing the springs and slide shafts to be greased up accordingly, to save wear or stiffness in future.


With that done, the assembly was put into place on the front fairing to ensure fit...


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... and all looked good, once I managed to slide the motor into the hole behind the headlight and as I was happy with that, the unit was plugged into the wiring loom and the operation of the mechanism tested to ensure it works and all was found to be good.


With that, the assembly was removed and new stainless steel fairing clips were put onto the front fairing...


dsc_1272953309618.jpg


... so this is ready for the final mounting of the unit.


With that done I was able to concentrate on the bumps and scrapes on the mounting plate, I waited until this point to sort these out, just in case I caused any more with the first fitting...


dsc_127859951880.jpg?w=1700


... these were further cleaned up to remove any WD-40 residue, a little gloss black spray paint sprayed into the cap and a brush used to touch these in...


dsc_1329438227923.jpg?w=1700


... blending in the damage to make it less noticable. I didn't want to try and fill these as the sanding process would damage the mounting plate more.


With that done, the windscreen drive and mounting unit were bolted into place with brand new stainless bolts, to match the others on the bike...


dsc_1330814794841.jpg?w=1700


... so hopefully I will not have to remove it again!


With that done, it was onto the windscreen itself and first look at the screen showed a few bubbles behind the cleaning instructions...


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... these were pricked with a sharp (I got a new blade out especially) scalpel blade, a needle would have been just as good, to allow the trapped air to be massaged out via the hole...


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... which looks good and gets rid of the air trapped in the BMW factory in 1995/6.


The mounts for the screen were popped off...


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... and showed the scale of cleaning needed on the windscreen!


Without waiting around I cracked on with 2 hours of gentle cleaning, following the instructions on the screen, soaking and cleaning small sections of the screen at a time, drying before I move onto the next section and ensuring these sections overlap...


dsc_12871869307934.jpg?w=1700


... leaving the screen nice and clean afterwards.


The screen mounts were inspected and found to be solid, so we're cleaned up with a wipe of WD-40 on a rag, ready to be fitted back into place.


The forward rubber mount was installed first, before the plastic fixings were added before the rearward rubber mount was laid into place and this was pushed (well more gently coaxed) into the groove with the flat side of a small screwdriver...


dsc_1293187971177.jpg?w=1700


... aided by a smear of WD-40 to help it slide into place.


This then allowed the screen to be mounted...


dsc_12942099135255.jpg?w=1700


... and functionality tested again, with just the drain lines to fit to finish the job.


These were gathered together, inspected and found everything was good to go, so the clips were added to the front fairing lower panel...


dsc_13321628136034.jpg?w=1700


... this was followed by the lines threaded behind the headlight and connected to the drain points on the windscreen mounting...


dsc_13331288683096.jpg?w=1700


... and the other end passed into the clips, making sure these face to the rear of the bike to ensure drainage when the air pressure is on the front of the bike while riding.


That's the windscreen done!


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

Edited by wollyjumperuk
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  • 2 weeks later...

Before I got into the fairing infill panels, and because I originally wanted to mount these gauges in the infill panels, I wanted to get these gauges done.


The mounts and gauges were popped on the bench...


dsc_13171068699921.jpg


... so I could check condition, starting with the mounts. These were found to be fairly corroded, under the paint, causing a bubbling of the paint surface...


dsc_1318170718930.jpg


... which was taken back with an angle grinder with a sanding disc, to try and minimise damage to the metal beneath, so that the pieces could be rubbed back with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper and hung ready for painting and tac-clothed to remove the loose material.


With that done, the mounts had coats of Autotek Etch Primer...


dsc_13241932804827.jpg


... and once cured, coats of Halfords Gloss Black...


dsc_1326845389684.jpg?w=1700


... and finished of with coats of Autotek Petrol Resistant Clear Lacquer.


With these having a few days to cure off, they were ready to fit to the handlebars, which meant removing everything from each side and sliding the mounts into place...


dsc_1350621013549.jpg?w=1700


... remembering to check which side they go on first before securing with stainless steel bolt and washers.


With the brackets fitted, each of the gauges were cleaned up, with the trusty WD-40 rag...


20200525_111407.jpg?w=1700


... with the only things left to do is to mount and test them.


The gauges were bolted into position...


20200525_111938.jpg?w=1700


... and electrically connected, with the position adjusted for now and the nuts nipped up.


To functionally test the fuel gauge, as previous tests had shown the sender to be good, the ignition was popped on and a length of wire used to hook the float in the fuel tank up off the stop...


20200525_105916.jpg?w=1700


... and secured by popping the end down the overflow hole. With that secured the gauge was checked, which read as expected and then moved when the float was raised and lowered.


The temperature gauge was tested by running the bike until the needle started to move, showing that was all operational.


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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With the front fairing done, windscreen in place and the fairing infill about to go in, this is the best time for me to tackle the mirrors. I've taken into account a common issue seen with these, if they smack something they fall off and generally end up under the vehicle which just knocked them off for you - tethering is the way to combat this problem according to many.


With that in mind, the mirrors were popped on the bench so that work could begin...


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... and the only work needed was to the housings themselves, having been dinged a bit over time.


To get this done, the glass had to come out, so the corners around the mirror glass were masked up to limit damage...


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... and tape put across the glass, just in case I break it! And to save my eyes, in case I shatter it, alongside the safety glasses...


dsc_13001507226349.jpg


... so all was safe to proceed. This is convex glass (trust me, that bit is important to see what's going on behind you), it can be a bit expensive to replace, so from here on in I am going very carefully.


A car trim removal tool was slid behind the mirror glass and put as close to the ball connector possible before gently easing the mirror glass and holder out...


dsc_1301646111043.jpg


... thankfully both in one piece!


On inspection of one of the mirrors, the housing didn't quite close properly, and there as a scrunching noise as I tried to press it back to place, so easing around the join with the car trim tool I eased the housing away. I found something odd, expanding builders foam...


dsc_131493500758.jpg?w=1700


... I suspect this had been used to 'glue' the mirror back together after an impact at some point in history. It's not meant to be there, so I got as much of it out as possible, thankfully this does not seem to have done too much damage to the function of the housing.


While this was open, an 8mm hole was drilled below the mirror glass mounting point so the tether could be pulled through...


dsc_1305261423904.jpg


... with a further 8mm hole drilled into the plate between the 2 lower mounting points to allow the tether to be fed through to the bodywork.


With the tether fitted, the mirror glass mount was reinstated and the tether looped over it and the hole between the 2 mounting points was measured and a corresponding hole drilled through the front fairing, so that the tether can be passed through.


The mirror mounts were loosely bolted into the front fairing, ensuring the rubber washer is between the mount and the fairing...


dsc_1311819102885.jpg


... to allow the mount to sit away from the fairing and the tether enough space to emerge and be looped around the mount.


As a demonstration I held the mirror up to the fairing to see where this would hang...


dsc_13121713327711.jpg


... which seemed to work OK enough, so carry on I did.


With that done, the mirror housing was glued back together, nothing special here, just a bead of super glue run around the mating faces, before it was held together with masking tape while it cured off.


Once cured, the body of the mirror housing was looked at and the larger areas of damage filled with body filler ready for the sanding to commence!


The sanding took both mirror housings back to a smooth finish with the vast majority of the imperfections removed and the remained of the paint finished scuffed to accept the new paint, which meant it was ready for the sacrificial coat of etch primer, to identify any further dings I'd missed, which were then sanded back again and the painting proper to start with Autotek Etch Primer...


20200525_105603.jpg?w=1700


... once that was on and cured they were rubbed back with 1000 grit wet & dry paper, drying off once a smooth finish was achieved.


The housings were allowed to dry off before coats of Halfords BMW Arctic Silver were applied...


img_20200527_0804583474880523368957306850.jpg?w=1700


... followed by a further run back, dry and coats of Halfords Petrol Resistant Lacquer and again allowed to cure off.


Once cured and masking removed, the foam mounting pads were installed with a little spray contact adhesive, making sure they were correctly aligned first time!


Next was the mirror glass, each of which had the ball socket lightly greased to aid fitting and adjustability once fitted.


In turn, each was held in place and a steady pressure against the center of the mirror used to pop it back into place and the tape removed from the glass...


img_20200530_1710200422610352283090028955.jpg?w=1700


... leaving each of the mirrors ready to be installed.


To install the mirrors the tether was fed through the pre-drilled hole in the fairing and looped around the rear most mounting plate bolt (behind the washer), while the mirrors were snapped onto the retaining lugs...


img_20200530_173036626_hdr1727057498264459806.jpg?w=1700


... which was a right pain, so the top mounting was done first, then the bottom 2.


With the those fitted, that was job done on the mirrors!


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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With the mirrors sorted, it was time to neaten up the front end with the fairing infills. So, first up were the mounting brackets, which were checked over before being cleaned down with trusty WD-40 on a rag and with nothing else needed here (except me needing to buy shares in the WD-40 company), these were bolted into the front fairing...


dsc_13373827477.jpg?w=1700


... so the focus could switch to the infills themselves.


All the infill panels were arranged on the bench and, except a bit of dust, everything looked good enough to use, so thankfully no waiting around for spares on this one!


I grabbed the lower panels first and found that one of the units was missing the foam/rubber strip...


dsc_1340342642099.jpg?w=1700


... and the other was in such a condition that daylight could be seen through it, so much for no spare parts! Thankfully I had some black rubber tubing that was perfect for the job.


This was cut to size and sliced down it's length, allowing this to be super glued into place, once the old adhesive had been removed...


dsc_13441238889901.jpg?w=1700


... finishing the required repair work to that piece.


The lower infill panels were both given the WD-40 treatment, and the lower mounting point for the infills were given a new stainless clip, allowing the lower fairing infill panel to be fitted with a new stainless steel bolt...


dsc_13481259413670.jpg?w=1700


... on each side, the bike is already looking much better with these in place.


Next up was the forward dash / infill panel, which was a bit dusty, but otherwise in fairly good shape.


The dash light fitting was hooked up to a spare bike battery to make sure everything worked...


img_20200527_1703011912567826308350303115.jpg?w=1700


... with no issues found the infill was cleaned down, this time just with water and a clean paintbrush to get rid of the lose material.


Once dried, the blank switches were popped back into the unit, which was offered up to the bike to allow for electrical connections to be reinstated before the windscreen unit was loosened off so the infill could be slid into place and electrically tested...


img_20200531_1013105015505621865240412122.jpg?w=1700


... to confirm everything was fine, allowing the panel to be fitted into place.


Finally the pockets and the lids were up, I've worked on this previously when I got the bike, one of the lids was bubbled, like it had been exposed to a flame or something very hot, I grabbed a replacement while I was looking for other bits on the bike.


The parts were cleaned up with water and a paintbrush and allowed to dry.


Once they were dry each of the pockets were fitted in turn...


img_20200531_112430840_hdr3794367179957444682.jpg?w=1700


... once in, the seals were checked on the lids to make sure that they would keep water out of the pockets and they looked good, so these were fitted and the locks checked they worked with the ignition key.


Standing back, this looks pretty good to me...


img_20200531_1137140363333887207439007619.jpg?w=1700


... finishing this off and bringing the bike closer to completion.


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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Time to go for the last piece of bodywork, with the side panels, so there were grabbed and put on the bench...


img_20200606_0948181148477885604323982212.jpg


... these were a bit dinged in places, so they were rubbed down with 1000 grit wet and dry paper, ready for painting...


img_20200606_1012169157809580186320487225.jpg


... these were then given a sacrificial coat of primer to highlight the smaller dings, which allowed all the defects to be filled and rubbed back before coats of Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Arctic Silver and Halfords Petrol Resistant Lacquer, following the directions on the can and rubbing down in between coats...


img_20200607_1613594397386511031651029263.jpg


... and left to cure for a week.


Once cured, the rubber stops were added to the mounting pin and the tank mounts, before each of the side panels were put into place...


img_20200610_075731674_hdr7533132097260711806.jpg?w=1700


... thankfully finishing off the body work painting.


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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I've held off doing this as I wasn't sure how I wanted this to look. From the factory these came in either polished chrome or black, and after some thought I decided to go for black.


So, the heat shield was grabbed up...


img_20200613_1203320136140234318501198431.jpg


... and new stainless bolts ordered to set this off.


The heat shield was cleaned up with a wire brush attachment on a drill...


img_20200613_1348572998872608555560484843.jpg


... both front and back to roughen the surface a little ready for the paint, before being cleaned down with white spirit and allowed to dry off.


The heat shield was treated to a few coats of Halfords Engine Paint...


img_20200613_1529434014641046560679807185.jpg


... before it was allowed to cure off.


Once cured, the square nuts were slipped into the retainers and the new bolt threads given a light smear of nickel grease to reduce the risk of corrosion and the heat shield mounted...


img_20200615_1649228907313838418821658717.jpg?w=1700


... now, I think that looks fairly smart and completes the exhaust finally!


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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Now I can't remember why, but I put the spark plug to one side when I was doing the engine, as I've found it again it's time to get it done!


So, it was grabbed out...


img_20200613_1203094193950393487270887505.jpg?w=1700


... and the majority of the old, and in places bubbling, paint was taken off with a wire brush attachment on a drill, leaving just the bits the brush couldn't get to.


These were treated with Rust-oleum NR.1 Green Paint Stripped, which lifted the remainder with 2 treatments, so this could be washed off and put in the sun...


img_20200613_133817962_hdr5219173948013492989.jpg?w=1700


... to dry off.


Once dry, a polishing mop was popped on the drill and the BMW lettering was polished up, as this was the finish I wanted on these...


img_20200613_1408579172490162741004114407.jpg?w=1700


... with these covered with masking tape and this cut back just to cover the lettering with a scalpel (in the fiddly bits) and the old gasket making method (I'll let you look at my posts on the other engine covers for that one), so it was ready to paint...


img_20200613_1427406024371114623748401767.jpg?w=1700


... just as soon as I'd cleaned it down with white spirit and allowed it to dry.


With that done, the piece was given a few coats of Halfords Engine Paint, the one that cures at room temperature, mainly for ease and to match the other engine covers. The masking tape was removed very carefully with a scalpel and a pair of needle nose pliers as soon as the last coat had gone on...


img_20200613_1617084207397662750110086149.jpg?w=1700


... so the tape didn't set into the fresh paint as it cured, I'd made that mistake before!


Once that was cured, the cover was bolted onto the engine with a set of new stainless steel bolts...


img_20200615_165623431359157694719473369.jpg


... finishing off that little job!


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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Hopefully not long, just a few decals to pop on, touch up a few bits, get the luggage up together, MOT and give it a run for a while.


I did ride this for a bit before I stripped it down and it didn't really float my biking boat! But a few years ago I got talking to a guy in Honister Hause youth hostel who turned up on a K75RT before a few obligatory drinks were had, and he advised to take the bike for a long run over a few days (sounds like an excuse for a bit of a tour) before I draw any conclusions.


But, I must admit if I don't get on with it on the second go I will offer it for sale.

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