Leaking fuel/petrol smell - more liquid in engine/oil bit

Thanks.

I’ve bought the service kits, I figure I might as well. I have bought the fuel tap service kit, and front and rear brake callipers repair/service kits excluding the pistons and also some spark plugs.

I figure the plugs can sit on my shelf (ones I take out) to replace duff ones in future. I think I’ll be busy!

What is carb balancing? Is that a thing I need to think about? Or just clean and replace worn bits?

Worry about carb balancing when all the service kits are in . I've got a set of gauges somewhere if I can find all the tubes . Let me know when you need them . Having said that , the accepted wisdom is that the engine should be shimmed first to produce the optimum result .

Cool, start with getting it working!

All I'll add to this is to use your phone and take pictures of things before you remove them. I do it with loads of jobs, especially electrical work. So much easier to look at a picture showing you where things go

All I'll add to this is to use your phone and take pictures of things before you remove them. I do it with loads of jobs, especially electrical work. So much easier to look at a picture showing you where things go

Bloody amateur

I like to think of it as creative laziness

I like to think of it as creative laziness

Don't worry if its something I havent taken apart before I too take alot of pics to go back to if I get stuck

Usual case is I think to myself "that looks simple, I wont bother with photos" and then spend ages googling for a diagram of what it should look like

Usual case is I think to myself "that looks simple, I wont bother with photos" and then spend ages googling for a diagram of what it should look like

I have done that!

Has this happened since you changed the air filter ?

Yes but seemingly a long time after, about 2000 miles.

Whimps!

It's not a proper job unless you have a hand full of bits and bobs left over when you're done... weight saving you know.

Where I am at now

This one has fuel in...

The others don’t seem too.

Just trying to work out how to release the accelerator cable now.

Open the throttle at the handlebar end and then hold the sprung lever at the carb end, as you release the handlebar control the carb end will have slack allowing you to remove the nipple from the end anchor point.

Hope that is clear enough?

Cheers

Ian

This one has fuel in...

image.jpg

The others don’t seem too.

Just trying to work out how to release the accelerator cable now.

The others probably do have fuel in . Just concentrate on getting them off the bike . I see that you have removed one of the tops . I'd put that back on because there aren't any issues with that side of things at the moment .

This one has fuel in...

image.jpg

The others don’t seem too.

Just trying to work out how to release the accelerator cable now.

Ahh , when you say " This one has fuel in " what do you mean exactly ? How is it different from the others ?

Hi all

What is the vacuum hiding that I have to mark and remove? In what way mark?

Regarding fuel @fastbob, the left most one I can see fuel when I twist the accelerator and move the pivoting disk thing inside the carb. This is not the case with the others.

Just trying to get it all off properly and struggling to work out how.

[mention]Ian Frog[/mention] i think I know what you mean...

Look at the movement at the carb end a few times as you will need to move this by hand when you come to putting the cable back on again.

As it appears to be one of the round ones you should see a slot coming off at 90 degrees to the nipple on the end of the cable.

You should use the slack to rotate the cable to line up with the slot and slide the nipple sidewards out of th operating disc.

Cheers

Ian

Slacken ( wind it in)cable adjuster at grip end ( if fitted)

Slacken the central adjuster

Pull the cable upwards where it mounts on carb and see the part of carb the end moves/attached to .

Use a screwdriver or get your finger in from underneath to lock that part in its fully 'pulled' location and then manipulate the cable out of its locating point

Btw there are two cables on the throttle

And if taking the carbs off you can remove cables after if needed

First stage of learning how to put things together. Learn how to take them apart.

There is fuel in the left hand engine bit (is it the cylinder?) and the engine won’t rotate. There is resistance. I think I know what this means. How do I get it out?

Plus how do I get spark plugs out?

It’s a long way down in there, no idea what socket to use.

First stage of learning how to put things together. Learn how to take them apart.

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There is fuel in the left hand engine bit (is it the cylinder?) and the engine won’t rotate. There is resistance. I think I know what this means. How do I get it out?

You remove the plug and rotate the engine by hand with the ignition off . That should push most of it out . Do not hit the starter button unless you are wearing a flame proof suit . This is good news . At least you have identified the offending carb . Let me know when the float bowl is off .

Plus how do I get spark plugs out?image.jpg

With a long reach box spanner ( tubular ) and some thin nosed pliers by the look of it . Depending on the size of plug , I may have such a spanner . What year is your bike ? Just checked , sorry , no I haven't got the right size .