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What did you do to your bike today?


Stu
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In urban areas it's not the best although as I got used to it I found it easier. I bought it from a central London dealer in Vauxhall and as I picked my way out of London I was thinking WHY DID I BUY THIS?! By the time I'd ridden home to Gloucestershire via lots of good B roads I was loving it and still do. For me it's a perfect bike. I can easily get away from my mate on his goldwing and can keep up with my son in law on his K1300 except when he's being really naughty on a motorway. I don't need a chiropractor when we get where we are going.

One of the reasons I was attracted to the 950 was it's relatively light weight - it's 50 kg lighter than my RT, which I struggle to manhandle. Fine when moving, but I'm getting too old to push 274 kg of bike around and, if it ever fell over .....

The seat height is a little higher than I would like although, again, once on the bike I can flat-foot, so it's only getting on the thing that isn't as easy as I would like - the height of the pillion seat doesn't help.

The spec sheet suggests that fuel economy should be about 50mpg (5.5l /100km) - is that realistic ? How close to 200 miles is a normal tank range ?

I'm probably going to change within a year and the Multistrada is on my radar (subject to a longer test ride), but I might go down to the extreme - Yamaha 700 Tracer - now that's light ! :D

 

I get on average close to 50 mpg. Like all bikes the more enthusiastic you ride the less mpg you get. The fuel warning light comes on with about 40 -50 miles range remaining and I usually have done 140 miles since the last fueling.

Yamaha Tracer was on my list as well but when the chance of a brand new Mutley for £9,000 crossed my path it was a no-brainer. :cheers:

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Got round to fitting a new radiator, which is always a bodge job - nothing lines up, not the mounting lugs, not the fan lugs, hmm maybe the hose spigots do at least, but then hoses are more forgiving. Can't complain too much when they cost about £50 brand new. I think when you could get them from Honda they were £600, but it would be nice. Anyway it's bodge o' clock...


https://i.imgur.com/10t1CPdl.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

Over the years the radiator has gotten fatter and fatterer. Accidently ordered the superfat one (mounted) which had a bit of clearance issue with the right header (touching). In all there is one bolt in use here, there should be 5 in total. The bolt is needed to secure the ground wire for the fan switch and then everywhere else a nice lightweight cable tie replaces a bolt. It's kind of springy and rubber mounted and it really wants to rest on that header, it just needs a finger to hold it off about 5mm.


https://i.imgur.com/wyothu8l.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

Handy that there is an unused but well placed engine mount bolt hole to attach a slender steel finger, with gaffa tape tip. The jubilee on the header was bodge mkI but I was feeling fancy and didn't like the rubbing sensation of aluminium on hot metal.


https://i.imgur.com/9ECzWE1l.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

Annoyed the neighbours for a bit (definitely heard a sigh of exaggerated relief when it was shut off) but no leaks and fan still comes on and goes off. Radiator cap did let out a bit of steam though.

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Funnily enough I had the exact opposite experience. I found the Tiger just massive no idea why as it's pretty much similar in dimensions to the Mutley.

Tiger 800? It's fairly dainty.

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Took the Rex for a 100 mile test ride now new swingarm in place.

All seems good and a variety of roads up round Oundle way.

Steering feels slower as because of shock mounts being further back she sits down a bit so I have spun the adjusters so hopefully back to near normal.

Cheers

Ian

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I've got the 950 and if I could afford it I'd go up to the 950S. The 1260 is awesome but for what I want to actually do is a bit over the top. As it is on my 950 I've done 500 mile days with nothing more than a slightly numb bum. It is a very comfy bike and touch wood very reliable for me.

 

It is incredibly comfy bike, friend of mine have pikes peak model, sitting position, seat, pegs position, handlebar, all is perfect, for long rides.

Just need a time to get used to very wide handlebar,

No issues with the bike expect keyless, battery doesn’t last for long.

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I was relieved of £150 for an oil change. Then I went and nailed it to the redline.

 

Fookin hell they know how to charge!

At least Dick Turpin wore a face covering!

Cheers

Ian

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It is incredibly comfy bike, friend of mine have pikes peak model, sitting position, seat, pegs position, handlebar, all is perfect, for long rides.

Just need a time to get used to very wide handlebar,

No issues with the bike expect keyless, battery doesn’t last for long.

 

The battery in my BMW keyless fob lasted three years. That seemed OK.

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I was relieved of £150 for an oil change. Then I went and nailed it to the redline.

 

Fookin hell they know how to charge!

At least Dick Turpin wore a face covering!

Cheers

Ian

 

Yeah, tis a lot for an oil change. Couldn't even have t and biccies cos of covid! But I'd like the stamp for when I come to resell - worth the premium over what you'd lose without it I think.

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It is incredibly comfy bike, friend of mine have pikes peak model, sitting position, seat, pegs position, handlebar, all is perfect, for long rides.

Just need a time to get used to very wide handlebar,

No issues with the bike expect keyless, battery doesn’t last for long.

 

The battery in my BMW keyless fob lasted three years. That seemed OK.

 

That’s good, his was 12 months first and something like 8 months second. Then they did something and now it’s ok las 18 or 20 months

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My Wife leases a ds3 (dont do it, horrible little car, I refuse to drive it unless absolutely necessary!!) The battery in the fob only lasts on average 6 - 8 weeks :shock: It isn't keyless entry just a regular fob. I have tried plenty of different battery brands and it is the same on both sets of keys :|


My old car that i've had for last 3 years is still on whatever battery was in when I bought it :lol:

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For a while now I've been unhappy with the way the old K100 yokes, meant for 41.3mm Brembo items, have struggled to clamp the late K75 Showa forks that I've fitted which are 41mm. The steering head bearings have also had a notch in them ever since I bought the bike 6 years ago and the brake pads are about down to the metal so..

https://i.imgur.com/D1lQ5Nw.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>


BMW do the upper bearing like this. How am I supposed to lever it off there!?

https://i.imgur.com/oMPfhzS.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>


Ohhhh. Hammer it through the holes. Nice.

https://i.imgur.com/4e26DQj.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>


And the lower yoke too! Even nicerer. Anyone who has had to get the cup off the bottom of a Japanese stem, let alone a taper roller, will know just how much of a great idea this is. Thank you BMW for helping us service things that likely won't need attention until well past the warranty is over.

https://i.imgur.com/Ruw3mHN.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>


So, you put on some

since it's an 80s machine and get your hammer..

https://i.imgur.com/CH37f9e.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>


And with a few good whacks off it pops. Genius!

https://i.imgur.com/5sKcrVb.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>


Not so genius is the way that the bottom cap protector thingy gets a bit mangled in the process but I'm sure it'll hammer flat when the bearings are put on. The lower yoke is every bit as easy too..

https://i.imgur.com/TQMIZFi.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>


Naturally the cat was fascinated by watching an expert at work.

https://i.imgur.com/SfEvar8.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>


Next step is to remove the old yokes from the bike. The sticking point here is that the clocks are bolted to the upper yoke and I couldn't figure out quite how. Since I have all the time in the world right now thanks to being furloughed I decided to go the long way round and take the fairing off so I can see what I'm contending with, and maybe fix the horn that hasn't worked since I last took the fairing off and broke the wire 6 years ago. First get the radiator cover and then the lower fairing bits off, it never fails to astound me how much better it looks like this. I must admit I'm considering filling the screw holes in and running it like this, the lower fairing pieces are in a right state too..

https://i.imgur.com/ZuJBxuA.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>


More work..

https://i.imgur.com/8GTAELQ.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

https://i.imgur.com/E9IPKZX.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>


So that's it, ha.

https://i.imgur.com/fQ1htU0.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

More tomorrow if it's not raining :roll:

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Finally got round to having a fettle with the 400's forks. I'd bought some valves and springs last year, and it turns out quality control at ktech ain't great. They probably got a bad batch of damper rod tube because even from looking at the unopened bag you could see bits of 'dust' in it. Which isn't a nice thing to put in your fork, as generally people are a bit obsessive about having a nice clean, grit free fork, there's no oil filter ya see.


https://i.imgur.com/ROhOzbNl.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

Gritty.


https://i.imgur.com/mLgeS7zl.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

Err, not great.

I did take them back, and off the went back to ktech. When they came back they still weren't great, bit of a once over with a pipe cleaner from the craft section of the Range maybe and a drop of oil. I should really complain again but I really wanted to shave some tenths off my laptimes and give them a go. Bah. Must try to not be so British about it next time.


So, I start to think about how to clean a rod that's about 400mm long and 6mm in dia.

Tried to ebay a nice bit of sturdy looking wire pipe cleaner but nothing that wasn't thousands of miles away in the east. Tried a bit of rope, well it sorta fit but just didn't do a lot so I glued some sand paper on it. Now it's too tight and just bloody hard work. Google what people use for gun barrels but nothing abrasive enough. Hmm might as well run a drill bit through it maybe.. so a 6mm bit in extra long dimensions was aquired.


https://i.imgur.com/KnF58rdl.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

This worked well, but still quite a bit of nasty stuff present when squinting down the barrel into the light.


https://i.imgur.com/rVzsZLgl.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

Then I came up with this setup where I was squeezing a piece of wire wool betwixted the drill bit and the 5mm ally rod (came with the kit) and reciprocating it hither and tither. Hard boring work.


https://i.imgur.com/cYxspHul.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

Tha just needed a bit of help from a drill and an old speedo cable, sacrificed in hope that I don't actually need it and that this was the very reason it was [strikeout]chucked[/strikeout] stored away on the shelf.


https://i.imgur.com/2oz7VUnl.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

The doing end. Packed just right for maximum cleaning vs minimum wire flayling.


Not bad at all now. So on with building up the forks.

https://i.imgur.com/SkBpWGpl.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

Valves and cartridge body. I remembered I had to acquire another set of forks because my cartridge bodies had been unrounded by some clouter of a numpty, that must've wanted to stick the oil lock piece on to the end by braying some notches in it - which still didn't work! All so that you maybe you dont have to insert them into the fork upside down. I just don't understand.


https://i.imgur.com/wxZMSzAl.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

Mmmm not fer road use HRC oil seals. Use at own peril. Perfect.


https://i.imgur.com/FXRDLI8.jpg' alt='IMGUR>'>

No other pictures really, because I wanted to get to this stage.

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MOT time and as usual, sailed through, with minor advisory that the brake pads will need doing in the next while, which I knew anyway.


It was great to see the bike shop very busy with a queue of people waiting for or getting MOTs and other work done. A work colleague has also just bought a brand new bike from them and a chat with one of the sale staff, he said he has been selling almost as many bikes as before lockdown, everything online.


It is a relief to find my local place will survive fine.

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Is that the weather there now @fastbob? :shock:

 

Actually that's from last year but yesterday in the UK there were very heavy hailstorms .

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