Tokico 4 pot callipers, got them mostly apart.

Gotcha

I’ve cleaned the paint off the bits that touch

 

You don't need to go crazy with it i.e. attacking it with sandpaper - you might be able to rub the paint off now before it dries with a bit of thinners if you have any.

Good point!

I am sure we have all seen what brake fluid can do when used as paint stripper.

I had a mate who had to drive about with cnut on his bonnet when his wife found out about his girlfriend lol.

Cheers

Ian

And remember when you bleed or rebuild the calipers not to spill any brake and clutch fluid on the paintwork as it will be in vain

 

That’s why specific caliper paint is preferable, it’s brake fluid resistant.

I didn't know that either thought it was brake dust as well,

Mind you I would still try and avoid getting fluid on the calipers as it hampers checking for leaks ( they frighten the bejesus out of me).

Cheers

Ian

Gotcha

I’ve cleaned the paint off the bits that touch

 

You don't need to go crazy with it i.e. attacking it with sandpaper - you might be able to rub the paint off now before it dries with a bit of thinners if you have any.

 

Good point!

I am sure we have all seen what brake fluid can do when used as paint stripper.

I had a mate who had to drive about with cnut on his bonnet when his wife found out about his girlfriend lol.

Cheers

Yes, it is not very good when your wife knows for your girlfriend

Ian

Good point!

I am sure we have all seen what brake fluid can do when used as paint stripper.

I had a mate who had to drive about with cnut on his bonnet when his wife found out about his girlfriend lol.

Cheers

Ian

Similar situation with an old workmate of mine. His Wife covered his car in dozens of eggs. By the time he got to it they had all dried & hardened. It absolutely destroyed the paintwork

Wow didn't know eggs could do that !

If I was an angel and pure in thought and deed I would start a revenge thread !

As I am not I will leave it to others to put their snouts above the parapet !

Cheers

Ian

probably the ammonia in the eggs

I think the damage was caused trying to remove the hardened dried out eggs from the paint

Brake fluid are some of my painting but I am happy for now. Hopefully find time tomorrow to learn to refit and bleed them

I’m really happy with this

Look a lot better

Thank you all, I am really chuffed. I think heat tolerant paint was the wrong way to go but not to worry. First time doing this I did not protect the paint enough from the brake fluid. Tomorrow I need to learn how to bleed I wonder if I need anything for that that I don’t have. On a video I half watched earlier there was a tube

In use.

Thank you all, I am really chuffed. I think heat tolerant paint was the wrong way to go but not to worry. First time doing this I did not protect the paint enough from the brake fluid. Tomorrow I need to learn how to bleed I wonder if I need anything for that that I don’t have. On a video I half watched earlier there was a tube

In use.

Few tips

Watch the screws on reservoir caps will chew easily if incorrect screwdriver used ( dont use a posidrive )

Should be JIS screwdriver but if not available a standard cross head will do but give it a few taps with a hammer to seat it well and shock it a bit .

Have plenty of rags handy

You are trying to expel all air from the system which will show as bubbles and in the initial stages you may hear it .

Make sure lever is on its maximum setting ( furthest away from bars )

Rebuild brake system pads in place etc

Fill the system and undo the two bleed nipples and let fluid freely drain through ( you may want to put a length of clear plastic tubing on each nipple to protect your paintwork.keep topping up reservoir .

Once fluid is flowing nicely from both nipples .Tighten them and top up

Check for any unwanted leaks!

Place the reservoir cap or the rubber insert loosely in place as when you squeeze the lever you will get a spurt of fluid upwards .

At a gentle pace squeeze and release the lever about ten times . check fluid level do not allow below minimum at any time .

You need to bleed the master cylinder first before the calipers .

Place a rag below the master cylinder ( where the brake pipes connect to fluid reservoir)banjo bolt and protect as much as you can in that area . locate a well fitting spanner and just gently loosen the banjo bolt ( don't undo but just so its not really tight to begin with)

Pump the lever at a gentle pace about ten times then hold the lever in.

Undo banjo bolt DO NOT RELEASE LEVER some fluid may spurt beware .

Tighten banjo bolt ( not excessive tight )

Release lever . Check fluid level .top up if necessary

Pause for 15 seconds ( this allows the parts to return to their resting position to get maximum effort)

Repeat lever pump and hold .

Undo banjo bolt and hold.. Fluid release .and tighten

Release lever .check fluid level

Pause for 15 seconds

Repeat .

You should after a few sessions feel some pressure begin to build in the lever and potentially hear some movement from the calipers.

Have rags below caliper

Then go to the caliper furthest away from cylinder ( will be left side)

Check level top up if necessary

Pump lever ten times gently and hold .

Undo bleed nipple .

Fluid/air release

Tighten nipple

Release lever check fluid

Pause 15 seconds

Repeat until fluid flowing with no air .

Move to other side and do the same

Then your lever should have good firm feel.

If still poor then rebleed master cylinder and the calipers as above .

If you really struggle to get any pressure and you have no leaks

Remove calipers from their mountings but leaving all pipework attached

Turn the caliper upside down and give a few taps with a hammer handle .

Then reattach calipers.

Tockicos are known to trap air and inverting and tappingthem can get this to travel to a better area .

Once satisfied make sure all bolts are tight and all relevant surfaces are clean of brake fluid.

Top up fluid lever remember do not overfill as the system requires room to allow fluid to return .And the rubber insert will increase the level slightly.

Watch the orientation of the master cylinder lid as it does have a small cut out in it to act as a drain/vent.

When using on road remember to conduct a rolling brake test as soon as possible and that new pads will need bedding in !

Thank you all, I am really chuffed. I think heat tolerant paint was the wrong way to go but not to worry. First time doing this I did not protect the paint enough from the brake fluid. Tomorrow I need to learn how to bleed I wonder if I need anything for that that I don’t have. On a video I half watched earlier there was a tube

In use.

Few tips

Watch the screws on reservoir caps will chew easily if incorrect screwdriver used ( dont use a posidrive )

Should be JIZZ screwdriver but if not available a standard cross head will do but give it a few taps with a hammer to seat it well and shock it a bit .

Have plenty of rags handy

You are trying to expel all air from the system which will show as bubbles and in the initial stages you may hear it .

Make sure lever is on its maximum setting ( furthest away from bars )

Rebuild brake system pads in place etc

Fill the system and undo the two bleed nipples and let fluid freely drain through ( you may want to put a length of clear plastic tubing on each nipple to protect your paintwork.keep topping up reservoir .

Once fluid is flowing nicely from both nipples .Tighten them and top up

Check for any unwanted leaks!

Place the reservoir cap or the rubber insert loosely in place as when you squeeze the lever you will get a spurt of fluid upwards .

At a gentle pace squeeze and release the lever about ten times . check fluid level do not allow below minimum at any time .

You need to bleed the master cylinder first before the calipers .

Place a rag below the master cylinder ( where the brake pipes connect to fluid reservoir)banjo bolt and protect as much as you can in that area . locate a well fitting spanner and just gently loosen the banjo bolt ( don't undo but just so its not really tight to begin with)

Pump the lever at a gentle pace about ten times then hold the lever in.

Undo banjo bolt DO NOT RELEASE LEVER some fluid may spurt beware .

Tighten banjo bolt ( not excessive tight )

Release lever . Check fluid level .top up if necessary

Pause for 15 seconds ( this allows the parts to return to their resting position to get maximum effort)

Repeat lever pump and hold .

Undo banjo bolt and hold.. Fluid release .and tighten

Release lever .check fluid level

Pause for 15 seconds

Repeat .

You should after a few sessions feel some pressure begin to build in the lever and potentially hear some movement from the calipers.

Have rags below caliper

Then go to the caliper furthest away from cylinder ( will be left side)

Check level top up if necessary

Pump lever ten times gently and hold .

Undo bleed nipple .

Fluid/air release

Tighten nipple

Release lever check fluid

Pause 15 seconds

Repeat until fluid flowing with no air .

Move to other side and do the same

Then your lever should have good firm feel.

If still poor then rebleed master cylinder and the calipers as above .

If you really struggle to get any pressure and you have no leaks

Remove calipers from their mountings but leaving all pipework attached

Turn the caliper upside down and give a few taps with a hammer handle .

Then reattach calipers.

Tockicos are known to trap air and inverting and tappingthem can get this to travel to a better area .

Once satisfied make sure all bolts are tight and all relevant surfaces are clean of brake fluid.

Top up fluid lever remember do not overfill as the system requires room to allow fluid to return .And the rubber insert will increase the level slightly.

Watch the orientation of the master cylinder lid as it does have a small cut out in it to act as a drain/vent.

When using on road remember to conduct a rolling brake test as soon as possible and that new pads will need bedding in !

Sorry but I had to

All of the above but with a length of PVC tubing from B&Q attached to the bleed nipples . Less mess and you can see the bubbles .

All of the above but with a length of PVC tubing from B&Q attached to the bleed nipples . Less mess and you can see the bubbles .

Recently purchased when I wanted to change hoses on the ZRX absolutely brilliant simple piece of kit makes life much easier.

Replaces my Gunson easy bleed for sure.

Cheers

Ian

20200614_131156.jpg

Recently purchased when I wanted to change hoses on the ZRX absolutely brilliant simple piece of kit makes life much easier.

Replaces my Gunson easy bleed for sure.

Cheers

Ian

( Not saying you do )

Biggest reason why most rate the gunson eezibleed poorly is that they fail to read the instructions fully to only use 15psi pressure .

Most just clip onto fully inflated tyre and wonder why they have a brake and clutch fluid lagoon under the car

20200614_131156.jpg

Recently purchased when I wanted to change hoses on the ZRX absolutely brilliant simple piece of kit makes life much easier.

Replaces my Gunson easy bleed for sure.

Cheers

Ian

( Not saying you do )

Biggest reason why most rate the gunson eezibleed poorly is that they fail to read the instructions fully to only use 15psi pressure .

Most just clip onto fully inflated tyre and wonder why they have a brake and clutch fluid lagoon under the car

Lol you are right and I must admit I rolled up laughing when I lent mine to a friend.

I normally use an old wheel barrow wheel I got lying about.

I do like the new non return valve thingy though.

Cheers

Ian

I recently bled my brakes having rebuilt calipers.

Bolted it back together put peice of clear hose hose on caliper bleed poorer oil in chamber. Pumped brake till oil came out of caliper, I put hose vertical so bubbles could rise up. Once oil was going up and down with no bubbles in hose nipped up bleed.

Did same for other caliper. Brake felt firm but repeated the above, to be sure.

Checked all unions for leaks.

Ride gently for first whilst till confident. Have checked oil and connections regularly and all seems good.

[mention]TimR[/mention] 's procedure above is probably more correct but it was simple and worked for me..

20200614_131156.jpg

Recently purchased when I wanted to change hoses on the ZRX absolutely brilliant simple piece of kit makes life much easier.

Replaces my Gunson easy bleed for sure.

Cheers

Ian

I took a punt on one of these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-Hand-Held-Vacuum-Tester-and-Pump-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-Cars-Motorcycles/201908749975?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

Yes its cheap and Chinese but it worked really well for pulling the fluid through!

In fact too bloody good as I ran out of fluid really fast twice

All of the above but with a length of PVC tubing from B&Q attached to the bleed nipples . Less mess and you can see the bubbles .

Screenshot_20200614-124651~2.png

My apologies Tim .

What size piping? Sorry if this is a stupid question, once been in the sun all afternoon at the allotment and I am now hard of thinking. If I can get the pipe tomorrow I’ll try tomorrow evening then I have a day off on Tuesday to tackle the carbs.

What size piping? Sorry if this is a stupid question, once been in the sun all afternoon at the allotment and I am now hard of thinking. If I can get the pipe tomorrow I’ll try tomorrow evening then I have a day off on Tuesday to tackle the carbs.

It has to go on the end of bleed nipple

So take nipple with you .

Needs to be a secure fit

Good thinking!

I have fitted the brakes back and I am trying to bleed them. I get no air coming out of the bleed nipple but also no pressure against the leaver and the brakes do nothing.

Help

I have fitted the brakes back and I am trying to bleed them. I get no air coming out of the bleed nipple but also no pressure against the leaver and the brakes do nothing.

Help :-)47967F1B-ADB3-401F-8E47-C56911EC6EBC.jpeg7580C1C0-CCC5-4C27-A572-077C0C2C5251.jpeg19A4B078-636C-4EC6-A432-5C68BD67C52E.jpeg4441D420-CFA0-4544-BA6A-922B83F907BD.jpeg

Master cylinder, By the lever, check it