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BMW K75RT Ultima Restoration


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Onto the remaining decals and various stickers for the K75 to bring this back as close to original as I can. It's worth saying at this point that all surfaces were prepared with a good clean and a tac-clothing to remove any loose material before anything was even offered up, let alone stuck down.


First up was the 'RT' badge, which had been eased off, which meant that although the foam backing was still present...


img_20200615_1708207042478495420842777833.jpg


... an adhesive needed to be added. This was done by applying double sided tape, placed face up and covered with a cloth to protect it, before a paint tin was used to weigh it down overnight, to ensure the tape had stuck well before the tape was trimmed back...


img_20200616_1223517148323437940198811259.jpg?w=1700


... ready for application.


Before the badge was removed the position of the top left of the R was measured as 1" up from the headlight surround and 2 1/4" in from the corner to the right of the headlight surround, so this position was marked very lightly, to allow the badge to be aligned and held in place...


img_20200616_1644333236726468773241637806.jpg?w=1700


... and once I was happy with how this looked, the badge was flipped up and the backing of the tape removed before this was carefully placed...


img_20200616_1646259043318728249672066985.jpg?w=1700


... finishing off the front end nicely!


Next was onto the underwear stickers, starting with the missing sticker from the tail section cover which, despite cleaning, this up the location for the missing replacement part sticker, which allowed this to be directly placed by hand and the cover put back on the bike...


img_20200615_1719383281733118855846556514.jpg


... so with the seat up, the stickers on the base of the tail section were laid out, this was played with for a while to get the alignment as close to square and the original pictures of this bike as I could.


Once I was happy with alignment these were held in place with masking tape...


img_20200615_173630526_hdr1342493350213034852.jpg


... before the backing was eased off, the sticker was laid into place and the air slowly pushed out...


img_20200615_173930912_hdr7681598371050582419.jpg


... which finishes off the stickers on the tail fairing.


With that done, the next stickers were for the ABS pumps and again I studied the original photos taken of the K75 to check alignment, and a bit of online research led me to a decision - red or silver ABS decals, they seem to be interchangeable, so I went with silver to tie-in with the bodywork.


As with the other decals, it was popped into place and held with masking tape...


img_20200615_175053694_hdr3110151015479102892.jpg


... to allow the backing to be peeled off and the decal stuck to the surface and any trapped air gently worked out, with the decal worked around the contours of the pump, before the front cover was gently pulled off...


img_20200615_175315980_hdr7508594649688259793.jpg


... I found that pulling both front and back off, towards the unpeeled section of the sticker, effectively doubling it over on itself, was best at leaving the decal where it should be...


img_20200615_175401567_hdr7798868557112101244.jpg


... and as that pump was done, the other followed in short order.


With all of the different types of stickers and decals used here, the same was done for the homogenisation decal...


img_20200615_180308059537167324319258556.jpg


... followed by the unleaded fuel decal...


img_20200616_1654118897177569184679591115.jpg?w=1700


That brings me onto the most important decal on the bike, the 'Ultima' logo, I took a lot of time in aligning this on the bike...


img_20200616_1658486443234474466117852502.jpg?w=1700


... before I was confident enough the remove the backing, stick it down and begin peeling the front off, leaving the logo as it should be and looking good...


img_20200616_170157193422029383584552261.jpg?w=1700


... with the same done to the far side of the bike.


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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Not quite there yet, I've got some touch up bits I need to do (bits I'm not completely happy with that I've become mildly obsessed by really, when you live with a restoration for 2 years, there will always be a bit of paint you've managed to ding here and there!), a few finishing touches here and there (like the fairing infills and the black plastic bits, I need to figure out how they can look better), a very small oil leak from the oil pressure sensor (which looks to be a common fault, so I have a new one of them to go on), and of course the luggage that has so far been gathering dust and holding other bits awaiting addition to the bike.


Once all that is done, then the MOT, tax and insurance so I can take her for a good ride - I hope that I get on with her and she isn't a disappointment after all the effort, but if I don't then I'll look to move her on probably at no more than she has cost me to do, so someone will get a solid bike without the cost of the labour (or the time) to do her up.

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Guest Richzx6r

Not quite there yet, I've got some touch up bits I need to do (bits I'm not completely happy with that I've become mildly obsessed by really, when you live with a restoration for 2 years, there will always be a bit of paint you've managed to ding here and there!), a few finishing touches here and there (like the fairing infills and the black plastic bits, I need to figure out how they can look better), a very small oil leak from the oil pressure sensor (which looks to be a common fault, so I have a new one of them to go on), and of course the luggage that has so far been gathering dust and holding other bits awaiting addition to the bike.


Once all that is done, then the MOT, tax and insurance so I can take her for a good ride - I hope that I get on with her and she isn't a disappointment after all the effort, but if I don't then I'll look to move her on probably at no more than she has cost me to do, so someone will get a solid bike without the cost of the labour (or the time) to do her up.

 

It looks like a very thorough restoration, did you do the engine and gearbox?

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Looks like it'll be better than when it was new. The attention to detail is awesome, at least for me whose skills in that line could charitably be described as bodging.

 

I can't ever profess to this being better than new, I would settle with as good as I could make it - I am sure someone with more skill would have done better, but if I don't like the way something has turned out I tend to strip it back and start again, up to a point at least!

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It looks like a very thorough restoration, did you do the engine and gearbox?

 

I just find it easier to go step by step, otherwise I would get confused! Get something as good as it's going to be before moving on.


I had the gearbox apart as there was a bit of resistance to some gear changes, but that turned out to just be a much needed gearbox oil change! THe engine was good before I started, so that just had a going over and a service to check as much as I could without significant disassembly.


I've pretty much put everything I did on this thread if you want to take a look, the additional bits with a few more photos and explanation are on my blog (linked below)

Edited by wollyjumperuk
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Guest Richzx6r

Looks like it'll be better than when it was new. The attention to detail is awesome, at least for me whose skills in that line could charitably be described as bodging.

 

I can't ever profess to this being better than new, I would settle with as good as I could make it - I am sure someone with more skill would have done better, but if I don't like the way something has turned out I tend to strip it back and start again, up to a point at least!

 

Well I am sure you have made a few bits better than when it was new for instance tieing the mirrors so should they get knocked off they wont be lost down the road, that's better than when it was new

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Guest Richzx6r

It looks like a very thorough restoration, did you do the engine and gearbox?

 

I just find it easier to go step by step, otherwise I would get confused! Get something as good as it's going to be before moving on.


I had the gearbox apart as there was a bit of resistance to some gear changes, but that turned out to just be a much needed gearbox oil change! THe engine was good before I started, so that just had a going over and a service to check as much as I could without significant disassembly.


I've pretty much put everything I did on this thread if you want to take a look, the additional bits with a few more photos and explanation are on my blog (linked below)

 

I have been following the restoration but don't remember much or anything about engine/gearbox but I may have just forgot about it

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It looks like a very thorough restoration, did you do the engine and gearbox?

 

I just find it easier to go step by step, otherwise I would get confused! Get something as good as it's going to be before moving on.


I had the gearbox apart as there was a bit of resistance to some gear changes, but that turned out to just be a much needed gearbox oil change! THe engine was good before I started, so that just had a going over and a service to check as much as I could without significant disassembly.


I've pretty much put everything I did on this thread if you want to take a look, the additional bits with a few more photos and explanation are on my blog (linked below)

 

I have been following the restoration but don't remember much or anything about engine/gearbox but I may have just forgot about it

 

I've just had a look and your right, I completely failed to post about it, possibly because my hands were so covered in oil and grease handling the camera would have been tricky! I've done all this solo so some bits may have been missed due to this. To be honest, there wasn't much to say bar the engine had a check over and the gearbox had new oil (after the clutch pushrod seal was sorted).

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Guest Richzx6r



I just find it easier to go step by step, otherwise I would get confused! Get something as good as it's going to be before moving on.


I had the gearbox apart as there was a bit of resistance to some gear changes, but that turned out to just be a much needed gearbox oil change! THe engine was good before I started, so that just had a going over and a service to check as much as I could without significant disassembly.


I've pretty much put everything I did on this thread if you want to take a look, the additional bits with a few more photos and explanation are on my blog (linked below)

 

I have been following the restoration but don't remember much or anything about engine/gearbox but I may have just forgot about it

 

I've just had a look and your right, I completely failed to post about it, possibly because my hands were so covered in oil and grease handling the camera would have been tricky! I've done all this solo so some bits may have been missed due to this. To be honest, there wasn't much to say bar the engine had a check over and the gearbox had new oil (after the clutch pushrod seal was sorted).

 

That's fair enough, wouldn't want a greasy camera and as there wasn't much done to it theres nothing really missed

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  • 2 weeks later...

I wonder if I might ask for your opinion.

I have been refurbing some old Hayabusa mirrors and used similar paint products to yourself.

I have applied 2 coats of primer and flatted in between coats ten 2 satin black and flatted then 2 coats of petrol resistant laquer and wonder if any more are required?

20200629_185304_resized.thumb.jpg.fb04e4e420c46fc53c274881a1326516.jpg20200629_185314_resized.thumb.jpg.b686c3f73e8602cc8bf0f27749098864.jpg1824170361_20200629_190135_resized-Copy.thumb.jpg.e31418e1902c8d899626c8827ee7a04d.jpg

 

These are currently drying and I don`t want to touch lol

Do you think this will suffice?

Cheers

Ian

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I wonder if I might ask for your opinion.

I have been refurbing some old Hayabusa mirrors and used similar paint products to yourself.

I have applied 2 coats of primer and flatted in between coats ten 2 satin black and flatted then 2 coats of petrol resistant laquer and wonder if any more are required?


These are currently drying and I don`t want to touch lol

Do you think this will suffice?

Cheers

Ian

 

Hey Ian,


I would have done exactly the same as you, bar I would have given the mirrors a clean down with cellulose thinners before any paint then used a tac-cloth - saying that, the finish looks good!


I would agree, don't touch them, don't be tempted to check if they are smooth for at least 24 hours (and keep any dust away from them, as it'll stick!). The paint will possibly be soft for up to a week, so best to leave them somewhere and forget about them until a week has passed.


I find the finish is dependant mostly on the surface preparation, then how you sprayed the paint and how long you left between coats - I found Brad Angove (https://www.youtube.com/user/BradAngove) really useful on youtube.


Chris

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Thanks Chris

These are the mirrors that came off the race bike so they can sit in a cupboard from tomorrow for a few days.

I did clean with thinners after rub downs.

I have always had trouble getting a decent finish with cans but I now put it down to youth and impatience lol.

Yes its been a while since I painted something !

I will post close ups when they are unmasked ! :)

Cheers

Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

With the bike done, just need to finish off by completing the luggage, starting with the top box, which was popped onto the bench…


img_20200626_0748295442834531876628740836.jpg?w=1024


… and dismantled, ready for checking over and cleaning up. On inspection I was quite lucky with this one, as nothing needed replacing.


Each piece was cleaned up with muc-off motorcycle cleaner, dried off and reassembled…


img_20200705_1014070772744417157537531700.jpg?w=1024


… including the underside foam strips to protect the luggage rack and at this point the catch on the inside of the top box was adjusted to ensure a good fit when closed, rather than the rattle I got from the loose initial fit – I doubt the seal will work with the lid bouncing around as the catch wasn’t holding it tight.


I wasn’t happy with the finish of the box once cleaned and reassembled, there were a lot of shallow scratches and a couple of really quite deep gouges. I don’t want to ‘erase’ the history of the bike, but I do want it to have a fairly tidy finish.


With that in mind, I gave the areas of lighter scratches a sanding with 1000 grit wet and dry paper, with a few sprays of water to smooth the finish as much as possible. In addition to this I rubbed the top box very sparingly with linseed oil via a lint-free cloth to bring back the original finish, starting on the right (showing the contrast below)…


img_20200705_1025306685405839123412610610.jpg?w=1024


… before finishing off both the remainder of the plastic box and the rubber back rest.


Once that was done, the top box mounting plate was checked over before being fitted to the bike…


img_20200705_1003257837959695370738985899.jpg?w=1024


… which required the luggage rack bolts to be eased off and the mounting plate slid into place up and under the top rail of the rack before being pulled back towards the rear of the bike and located.


Which allowed the top box to be mounted…


img_20200705_1040288148611204636050767547.jpg?w=1024


… finishing that box off and allowed me to move onto the panniers.


After inspection a few issues were found, so I set about sorting those out. First of these was the opening strap on one was broken off, so a new one was fitted. I then moved onto the hinge, which had taken a little more wear than was normal, due to the strap being broken…


img_20200705_1058446572823712984533025699.jpg?w=1024


… so these were replaced by driving the old hinges off and the new ones tapped into place with a copper-hide and a small block of wood, in a controlled manner so that nothing was damaged. While I was in there, a new bungee strap for this pannier was ordered and fitted as the old one was a bit shot.


Next up were the ‘touring’ badges, which had seen better days, so the first had been eased out with a car trim removal tool and the recess scraped clean of adhesive, before the second was fitted…


img_20200705_1153580561635891174079257643.jpg?w=1024


… which made much more of a difference to the look of both panniers than I expected.


The only job remaining was the bump strip on the bottom of one of the panniers…


img_20200705_1356005714792324789438295465.jpg?w=1024


… so this was removed and the mating face cleaned up and a new one ordered. Unfortunately the only one available was from Italy, took a while to arrive and cost a fair amount to import to the UK, but it’s got to be done!


With the panniers back in one piece they were also given the sandpaper and very sparing linseed oil treatment…


img_20200705_1458150757279838889509512703.jpg?w=1024


... which bought them up really nicely, allowing these to be mounted to the bike and allowed the pannier liner bags to be fitted…


img_20200705_1643323685188015570421178683.jpg?w=1700


... finishing up that job, so it's just down to the check over and fixing any snagging issues.


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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With all of the individual components checked, it was time to go through and see if there were any issues following final assembly.


First off, the small oil leak from the front of the engine, which was tracked back to the oil pressure sensor...


dsc_0773861094598.jpg?w=1700


... to fix this the engine oil had to be drained back out before the sensor was removed and replaced with a new unit, but with me being far too clumsy, the wire fitting was broken off, so this was replaced, the connection remade and the rubber boot refitted, so job done.


Next up was a troublesome front brake, it had bled fine but it was creaking when applied. I always start with the worst case and work back from there (sometimes to my benefit, sometimes not so much), so the front wheel had to come off...


img_20200621_1124316212429310619095742505.jpg?w=1700


... each disc was then removed and inspected in turn, but no warping or other issue, so everything was rebuilt and reassembled, but the creaking persisted.


The calipers were next to be visually checked, but before I got too far into it, I can't say why but I decided to swap the 2 pads over in the right side caliper and on testing it, the creak had completely gone! I'll take that!


I then wheeled the bike out of the garage to check nothing was fouling the steering, to which both the fuel and temperature gauge smacked the infill panel...


img_20200621_1252294355288402617308433380.jpg?w=1700


... so the mounts for the gauges and handlebar angle were played with until I had free turning bars and I was able to read the dials...


img_20200621_1423406612677283900344536535.jpg?w=1700


... but during this process, a wire become detached from the ABS switch, so this was soldered back into place...


... and the switch popped back into place.


With that done, that allowed the bike to be run for a while, run it up and down the drive to clear the ABS check and that warning light stopped blinking, and used both brakes to clear that standard warning light too, everything was working lovely!


Unfortunately after about 5 minutes of running the battery started hissing and as soon as I realised, the battery boiled over.


As quickly as I could, it was bike off, grab the garden hose and hosed down the bike, partly to dilute off the battery acid and partly to cool everything down as I suspected fire was a possibility.


Once everything had calmed down a bit, a pair of gloves went on and the battery was removed, thankfully no acid damage.


On investigating the set up, and running the bike on a booster pack, there was no overcharging, so that pretty much ruled out the bike being at fault. The battery was topped up and charged but it failed to hold a charge and one cell was getting really warm, potentially indicating a dead or shorted cell. So a new battery was ordered to replace the failed unit, it was fairly elderly, so I'm not too worried.


While I was waiting for the new battery, I got on with checking the other systems with the aid of a booster pack to run the electricals. I discovered that the windscreen only worked once after powering up then failed to respond to the switch, so this was popped out and it was clear that the common power supply had suffered during the playing around with the handlebars. So, with some blind disconnecting of connectors the wiring for the switch was taken out.


This allowed the wiring to be unsoldered from the switch and both to be tested on the bench. The wiring had no breaks, and the switch was good for the lowering contacts...


img_20200627_1147411192020556448502214804.jpg?w=1700


... but when switched to the raising contacts there was no continuity.


So the switch was disassembled to allow the contacts to be cleaned, and bent slightly back up, not so far as to stop the switch moving, but enough to ensure good contact.


From here the switch was reassembled, electrically tested and found to be good, before put back into place on the bike and tested to make sure it was all good.


The next item on the list was the OEM tool kit...


img_20200531_1138045636814086128075032756-e1594315400810.jpg?w=1700


... which was in good order, with nothing missing, so it was put straight into the tail fairing.


Lastly I ran through the bike to check as many bits as I could ahead of the MOT roadworthiness test here in the UK. It is rather handy the UK Government publish the test parameters online!


Thankfully only a few bits to do, such as a red rear reflector...


img_20200705_1624013073842809186638863172.jpg


... and onto adjusting the headlight aim.


To do this I rolled the bike back so the bike was 3.8m from the back wall of the garage and measured the height of the centre of the headlight from the ground and marked this on the window frame as a reference. I was then able to adjust the headlight from being far too low, to just about right via the adjustment knob in the back, bottom right hand side of the headlight, while sat on the bike to s better level.


Although I can test the brakes work, unfortunately I can't test brake efficiency or emissions before the test without specialist kit, so we'll have to see what comes back from the test on that.


Either way, that's the bike as ready for the test as it can be, so it was booked in, just have to wait for the test now!


As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/

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Squeaky calipers is normal, "they all do that, Sir".


How did you get the switch apart?? I tried to get the switch for my hazard lights to bits but couldn't get the lugs to come past their snuggly mounting holes, no matter how many small screwdrivers I shoved in..

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That's the thing, they weren't 'squeaky' but 'creaky', like a door being slowly closed with rust hinges - it was odd. Swapping the pads seems to have done the trick though!


To take the switch apart was a bit of an ordeal, but one I got the knack of it, it was OK. The way I did it was:

> Put small cross/pozi screwdriver in vice point up

> With a flat blade screwdriver ease the rocker part of the switch off

> Put the switch body, rocker mounting side down, on the screwdriver in the vice, making sure the screwdriver goes through the same hole the lever of the switch would and sits against the black plastic backing on the far side of the slider

> Use a pointy ended dentist tool or very small flat head screwdriver to get in to the back of the switch above each of the tabs and ease these

> Apply gentle downward pressure on the switch body and work your way round the 4 tabs, a little at a time, easing the black section out - it might take a bit of time but best to take time and avoid damage


It is a bit fiddly, your could always do with 2 extra hands, but don't go in too rough on it otherwise it'll break

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I gave up after a while with the switch and sprayed some maintenance spray into it instead, which thankfully restored its switching capabilities. I didn't dare try and ease the rocker off as it's not obvious how they come apart so was trying to do it from the underside.. Which wasn't happening.


Squeaky, creaky calipers at a standstill are still normal :wink: I'm sure it'll come back in time :lol:

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With the MOT roadworthiness test identifying no issues at all, I was a happy chappy!


With that done and the bike good to go she was given a good clean and taken for an extended ride.


Although I was happy with the work done, she doesn’t suit how I ride, as you can imagine I was disappointed.


img_20200705_1517129561344524506509721248.jpg?w=1024


So, the final news on the BMW K75RT Ultima is that she will be for sale just as soon as I’ve identified where I want to list her, totted up how much it’s cost (as I’ll list for that price, effectively the buyer will get the labour for free) and written an advert describing as much as I can of the work done.


Watch out for the advert!


In the meantime I would like to thank people and organisations who have been key in making the restoration/refurbishment possible and otherwise haven't had any thanks so far:

  • Heritage Stickers (http://www.heritagestickers.eu/cat/) - especially for custom printing the paint code stickers for me, alongside all the others provided to finish the job off perfectly

  • Chris Harris (https://www.youtube.com/user/BavarianBomberWrench/videos) - for great step by step advice on how to pull various bits of the K75 apart and repair them! Particularly useful for making up studs to realign the gearbox when refitting, spline lubing and removing mirror glass without breaking it (still glad I got that perfect first time)!

  • Online forums, such as themotorbikeforum and motobrick for advice in general

  • eBay and especially Kays Fastners selling via eBay - for all my stainless steel bolt needs!

  • Halfords - for ease of access to paint, colour matched stuff there is great and is only down the road

  • Last but by no means least - my long suffering, ever supportive wife!

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  • 2 weeks later...

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