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Anything on a bike likely to need > 100NM torque?


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My torque wrench goes up to 60NM, but my rear wheel nuts need 70. So I guess I am off to Halfords to buy a second torque wrench. I have my eye on the one that goes to 100NM. https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/spanners-and-wrenches/halfords-advanced-torque-wrench-model-100-488703.html


Is there anything anywhere on a bike that has a higher torque setting than the rear wheel nuts?

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When you look at torque values always bear in mind that any fixing that may be contaminated with oil, the torque reduces by about 30%. It’s important to remember this or you risk stripped threads.


As for the actual question, I bought a 40-200nm

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My torque wrench goes up to 60NM, but my rear wheel nuts need 70. So I guess I am off to Halfords to buy a second torque wrench. I have my eye on the one that goes to 100NM. https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/spanners-and-wrenches/halfords-advanced-torque-wrench-model-100-488703.html


Is there anything anywhere on a bike that has a higher torque setting than the rear wheel nuts?

 

For goodness sake , just nip it up so it doesn't come undone .

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Yes, thanks.

Still think I will stick with the manufacturers recommended torque settings, using a torque wrench. Hence the original question

 

Just bear in mind that those torque figures are meant for brand new and perfectly clean threads unless specified otherwise. That is, no your dirty rear axle and used nut doesn't need the book spec and no the used sump plug, non-OEM washer and aluminium threads now covered in oil also doesn't need the book spec. It just needs doing up enough so it won't come undone.


I use a 5-25Nm torque wrench more than a big one because the bolts for cam caps, coated in fresh oil like the book says, need to be right. Great big rusty/greasy fasteners on the chassis aren't nearly as picky.

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Yes, thanks.

Still think I will stick with the manufacturers recommended torque settings, using a torque wrench. Hence the original question

 

Just bear in mind that those torque figures are meant for brand new and perfectly clean threads unless specified otherwise. That is, no your dirty rear axle and used nut doesn't need the book spec and no the used sump plug, non-OEM washer and aluminium threads now covered in oil also doesn't need the book spec. It just needs doing up enough so it won't come undone.


I use a 5-25Nm torque wrench more than a big one because the bolts for cam caps, coated in fresh oil like the book says, need to be right. Great big rusty/greasy fasteners on the chassis aren't nearly as picky.

 

I totally get where you're coming from but I don't think our mutual friend will be convinced . Bear in mind that you should use a tiny little torque wrench in INCH pounds to avoid over tightening cam caps . There's many a GSXR and the like been ruined because someone couldn't believe how LITTLE torque is needed to hold down a camshaft .

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I totally get where you're coming from but I don't think our mutual friend will be convinced . Bear in mind that you should use a tiny little torque wrench in INCH pounds to avoid over tightening cam caps . There's many a GSXR and the like been ruined because someone couldn't believe how LITTLE torque is needed to hold down a camshaft .



Why pound-inch?

GSXR manual says 8-12 Nm which is fairly standard for an M6 fastener in grade 8.8 and well within range of small torque wrenches.

More damage most likely from dirty or damaged threads and inaccurate torque wrenches that are never calibrated.

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If you desire a torque wrench buy it and use it

Other people's opinions are just that and saying you don't need one is their personal view .


Example ...I could hand someone a chainsaw and ask them to sharpen it for softwood felling ...

Something i can easily do freehand ... But 99% of people would require file guides and depth guides .


Does it detract from the outcome ?


No

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I totally get where you're coming from but I don't think our mutual friend will be convinced . Bear in mind that you should use a tiny little torque wrench in INCH pounds to avoid over tightening cam caps . There's many a GSXR and the like been ruined because someone couldn't believe how LITTLE torque is needed to hold down a camshaft .



Why pound-inch?

GSXR manual says 8-12 Nm which is fairly standard for an M6 fastener in grade 8.8 and well within range of small torque wrenches.

More damage most likely from dirty or damaged threads and inaccurate torque wrenches that are never calibrated.



Ok , when I get home from work I'll dig out my GSXR manual and have a look .

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I totally get where you're coming from but I don't think our mutual friend will be convinced . Bear in mind that you should use a tiny little torque wrench in INCH pounds to avoid over tightening cam caps . There's many a GSXR and the like been ruined because someone couldn't believe how LITTLE torque is needed to hold down a camshaft .

 

Why pound-inch?

GSXR manual says 8-12 Nm which is fairly standard for an M6 fastener in grade 8.8 and well within range of small torque wrenches.

More damage most likely from dirty or damaged threads and inaccurate torque wrenches that are never calibrated.



Ok , when I get home from work I'll dig out my GSXR manual and have a look .



I would struggle to calculate things in imperial. there are 1,000's of websites that will convert pretty much anything into metric so if your torque wrench is metric you can always convert it


Just an example:

https://onlineconversion.com/torque.htm

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In too many decades of spannering I have wrecked things by over tightening. Worst case was a classic model aircraft engine I broke the crankshaft collet on by overdoing the prop nut. But I have never had anything nipped up tight that has come loose.


Engine rebuilds I use a torque wrench on camshaft journals because it's a surprisingly low setting. Bigger things I work on the basis if it feels right it's not going to fall off. Always worth checking after a few miles of course.

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In too many decades of spannering I have wrecked things by over tightening. Worst case was a classic model aircraft engine I broke the crankshaft collet on by overdoing the prop nut. But I have never had anything nipped up tight that has come loose.


Engine rebuilds I use a torque wrench on camshaft journals because it's a surprisingly low setting. Bigger things I work on the basis if it feels right it's not going to fall off. Always worth checking after a few miles of course.

 

You're preaching to the converted as far as I'm concerned but there are those among us who obviously love using torque wrenches . Maybe they ride their bikes thinking " Well it's not my fault if something falls off because the Torque Wrench said it was ok " 😁

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Guest Richzx6r

If you're doing engine work you need one. If you buy the tool and do the work yourself instead of paying a mechanic to do it the torque wrench pays for itself on the first job.

 

Very true

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

I totally get where you're coming from but I don't think our mutual friend will be convinced . Bear in mind that you should use a tiny little torque wrench in INCH pounds to avoid over tightening cam caps . There's many a GSXR and the like been ruined because someone couldn't believe how LITTLE torque is needed to hold down a camshaft .



Why pound-inch?

GSXR manual says 8-12 Nm which is fairly standard for an M6 fastener in grade 8.8 and well within range of small torque wrenches.

More damage most likely from dirty or damaged threads and inaccurate torque wrenches that are never calibrated.



I don't know either . I've no idea where I got that idea from . Must be going daft .

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I've been hand tightening the wheel nuts on my wife's cars for years without worrying about torque settings :twisted:

 

Just finger tight 😉

 

You're wasting your time . There are Torque Wrench believers and there are Torque Wrench non believers and neither faction will be persuaded otherwise . The non believers probably had Meccano and the believers probably had Playstation when they were kids . 😉

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Yes, thanks.

Still think I will stick with the manufacturers recommended torque settings, using a torque wrench. Hence the original question

 

Just bear in mind that those torque figures are meant for brand new and perfectly clean threads unless specified otherwise. That is, no your dirty rear axle and used nut doesn't need the book spec and no the used sump plug, non-OEM washer and aluminium threads now covered in oil also doesn't need the book spec. It just needs doing up enough so it won't come undone.


I use a 5-25Nm torque wrench more than a big one because the bolts for cam caps, coated in fresh oil like the book says, need to be right. Great big rusty/greasy fasteners on the chassis aren't nearly as picky.

 

I totally get where you're coming from but I don't think our mutual friend will be convinced . Bear in mind that you should use a tiny little torque wrench in INCH pounds to avoid over tightening cam caps . There's many a GSXR and the like been ruined because someone couldn't believe how LITTLE torque is needed to hold down a camshaft .

 

So they ruined their GSXR because they didn't use a torque wrench?

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