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Salt/rust protection


Jerry1111
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The other side of the coin ...

The dark side ......

My 2018 bike was never washed ... sprayed in WD40 .. And more WD40 ...

And washed in cold water ...


Not good enough .. read, rear calliper seized ... Bad !!


Factory recall ... Huzzah ...


Result ...


New rear calliper .... New front calliper, new rear master cylinder ...


Well worth not doing good maintenance ... :D :D

 

Oh please , not again . WD40 is 70% solvent and 30% who knows what and it is completely useless as a corrosion inhibitor .

 

It is however excellent for blowing up gas hobs.

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The other side of the coin ...

The dark side ......

My 2018 bike was never washed ... sprayed in WD40 .. And more WD40 ...

And washed in cold water ...


Not good enough .. read, rear calliper seized ... Bad !!


Factory recall ... Huzzah ...


Result ...


New rear calliper .... New front calliper, new rear master cylinder ...


Well worth not doing good maintenance ... :D :D

 

Oh please , not again . WD40 is 70% solvent and 30% who knows what and it is completely useless as a corrosion inhibitor .

 

It is however excellent for blowing up gas hobs.

 

Do tell us more . What happened ?

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Our gas hob had ( note the use of the past tense there) an ignition button which got stuck. So it was sparking and clicking permanently which was somewhat annoying.


I gave it a liberal dose of WD40 which being mainly solvent did an excellent job of cleaning up the sticky bit.


Feeling very pleased with myself I then pressed the ignition button to show how clever I was.... forgetting that the whole underside of the hob was now filled with gaseous solvent. The resulting explosion took the hob clean out of the worktop and set fire to the kitchen unit above.


My wife was not entirely happy with the outcome.

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My wife was not entirely happy with the outcome.

[mention]Mississippi Bullfrog[/mention] you sir are a master of understatement ! :lol: :lol:

I somehow think that would have been hilarious to watch.

Cheers

Ian

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The other side of the coin ...

The dark side ......

My 2018 bike was never washed ... sprayed in WD40 .. And more WD40 ...

And washed in cold water ...


Not good enough .. read, rear calliper seized ... Bad !!


Factory recall ... Huzzah ...


Result ...


New rear calliper .... New front calliper, new rear master cylinder ...


Well worth not doing good maintenance ... :D :D

 

Oh please , not again . WD40 is 70% solvent and 30% who knows what and it is completely useless as a corrosion inhibitor .

 

It is however excellent for blowing up gas hobs.

 

Chucking one into a bonfire has a spectacular result :twisted: :lol:

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I ride through the winter so am often riding on roads that have been covered in salt grit. I was recommended this product and have used it to wash my bikes for a couple of years now. It was designed for the marine environment, boat engines, boats, diving equipment etc. All I can say is it seems to do the job well, I usually give the bike a rinse of with this product then use ACF50 on a rag to wipe over exposed surfaces, and ACF50 with an extension nozzle on to get at the hard to reach areas, so far no problems and very little "if any at all" rust.

https://oceanfootprint.co.uk/product/salt-away-946ml-concentrate-refilll/

 

51RERZFOi6L._AC_SL1010_.thumb.jpg.9527aac0ecd939d9b2a91859bce1adc1.jpg

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Our gas hob had ( note the use of the past tense there) an ignition button which got stuck. So it was sparking and clicking permanently which was somewhat annoying.


I gave it a liberal dose of WD40 which being mainly solvent did an excellent job of cleaning up the sticky bit.


Feeling very pleased with myself I then pressed the ignition button to show how clever I was.... forgetting that the whole underside of the hob was now filled with gaseous solvent. The resulting explosion took the hob clean out of the worktop and set fire to the kitchen unit above.


My wife was not entirely happy with the outcome.

I would have thought she would have been delighted, new kitchen here we come. :thumb:

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I ride through the winter so am often riding on roads that have been covered in salt grit. I was recommended this product and have used it to wash my bikes for a couple of years now. It was designed for the marine environment, boat engines, boats, diving equipment etc. All I can say is it seems to do the job well, I usually give the bike a rinse of with this product then use ACF50 on a rag to wipe over exposed surfaces, and ACF50 with an extension nozzle on to get at the hard to reach areas, so far no problems and very little "if any at all" rust.

https://oceanfootprint.co.uk/product/salt-away-946ml-concentrate-refilll/


51RERZFOi6L._AC_SL1010_.jpg

 

Isn't that mainly just water?

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I ride through the winter so am often riding on roads that have been covered in salt grit. I was recommended this product and have used it to wash my bikes for a couple of years now. It was designed for the marine environment, boat engines, boats, diving equipment etc. All I can say is it seems to do the job well, I usually give the bike a rinse of with this product then use ACF50 on a rag to wipe over exposed surfaces, and ACF50 with an extension nozzle on to get at the hard to reach areas, so far no problems and very little "if any at all" rust.

https://oceanfootprint.co.uk/product/salt-away-946ml-concentrate-refilll/


51RERZFOi6L._AC_SL1010_.jpg

 

Isn't that mainly just water?

 

Might be distilled water which is easier for the salt to dissolve into :lol:

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I ride through the winter so am often riding on roads that have been covered in salt grit. I was recommended this product and have used it to wash my bikes for a couple of years now. It was designed for the marine environment, boat engines, boats, diving equipment etc. All I can say is it seems to do the job well, I usually give the bike a rinse of with this product then use ACF50 on a rag to wipe over exposed surfaces, and ACF50 with an extension nozzle on to get at the hard to reach areas, so far no problems and very little "if any at all" rust.

https://oceanfootprint.co.uk/product/salt-away-946ml-concentrate-refilll/


51RERZFOi6L._AC_SL1010_.jpg

 

Isn't that mainly just water?

 

Might be distilled water which is easier for the salt to dissolve into :lol:

 

You're probably right :lol: It has some sort of rust inhibitor in the solution, I haven't got a clue how it works but it definitely seems to do the job. I use it once weekly, one container lasts me all year. It was difficult to get hold of for a while but more places seem to be stocking it now

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I just don't ride in the cold winter so it won't be an issue for me.

Having said that, wouldn't be the case that a good wash with the pressure washer after a ride or a couple times a week for frequent rides should solve the problem.

Of course while using the pressure washer you have to be careful with wheel bearings and the like. For chain bikes a wee spray after washing would complete the job. :)

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I ride all year but with global warming there's less salt on the roads. Except the rock salt mine where all the salt used on roads is just down the road from us and the road is always covered in salt. Most days the exhaust is encrusted with the stuff so I just keep a hosepipe by the gate and wash the bike down every day. It seems to do the trick fine.

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Our gas hob had ( note the use of the past tense there) an ignition button which got stuck. So it was sparking and clicking permanently which was somewhat annoying.


I gave it a liberal dose of WD40 which being mainly solvent did an excellent job of cleaning up the sticky bit.


Feeling very pleased with myself I then pressed the ignition button to show how clever I was.... forgetting that the whole underside of the hob was now filled with gaseous solvent. The resulting explosion took the hob clean out of the worktop and set fire to the kitchen unit above.


My wife was not entirely happy with the outcome.

 

I'm sure you will understand when I say that's the best laugh I've had all day ! 🤣🤣🤣

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Regularly washing the bike to rid it of winter grit, crud and salt is the most effective corrosion prevention method.

 

Also most costly one - where do I get the time, especially when the days are short and beer gets opened earlier and earlier in the evening

:D

 

Chucking a few buckets of water over the bike, especially around the callipers and engine to wash away salt is quick and free. I am lucky and have an outside tap next to my bike and use a hose.


The one time I did not do that, because it was freezing and I did not the path to ice over and I could not rinse the bike for a couple of days, it finally rusted just in that short time.


I have had a succession of bikes used all year round and the rinse when I got home was more effective than any ACF50 or similar.

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I commute all year and regularly apply ACF50. I also rinse the bike off after riding on salty roads. I have also bought one of those hair dryers for pets. Once I have rinsed the bike in cold water, it only takes a few minutes to dry the bike with the dryer before I put it away. I usually warm my spray bottle in some warm water before applying the ACF50. I don't know why but it seems to be easier to apply (probably in my head anyway) use a microfiber cloth to wipe the excess off and apply elsewhere.

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I just don't ride in the cold winter so it won't be an issue for me.

Having said that, wouldn't be the case that a good wash with the pressure washer after a ride or a couple times a week for frequent rides should solve the problem.

Of course while using the pressure washer you have to be careful with wheel bearings and the like. For chain bikes a wee spray after washing would complete the job. :)

 

Bing bong ... would Mr [mention]Stu[/mention] come to the jetwash vs wheel bearing post please

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Of course while using the pressure washer you have to be careful with wheel bearings

 

We have had this many times on here so much so I took some wheel bearings and jet washed them at close range.


The seals did an amazing job and you don't need to worry about "washing the grease out" like many people seem to say.


You would first need to get past the outer seals before getting to the bearing seal and I failed to get through the bearing seal at close range.

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We have had this many times on here so much so I took some wheel bearings and jet washed them at close range.


The seals did an amazing job and you don't need to worry about "washing the grease out" like many people seem to say.


You would first need to get past the outer seals before getting to the bearing seal and I failed to get through the bearing seal at close range.

I fully agree with you [mention]Stu[/mention]

However I would suggest some caution with more powerful jet washes. The one I use at work is about 3 for long 18" talk and 2 foot wide. That probably could do damage.

The one I have at home I spray any what it was bought not to

To sealant and caulking out off wooden decks...

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Slightly off topic....way back my father in law had a Datsun Bluebird, I borrowed a pressure washer to clean some sandstone for a rockery and he asked me to wash out his wheelarches. I started on the off side rear, pressed the lever and aimed the jet around the wheelarch.


The right hand rear of the car sank to the ground.


Opening the boot revealed the jet had surgically cut the suspension mount out of the bodywork.


I knew of two fatal accidents involving that model when the rear suspension had collapsed due to the metal being poor quality. On the surface the car looked immaculate, but it had rotted from the inside and I'm glad he asked me to clean it before it had fallen apart on the road.


With regard to using them on bikes, just be sensible, there's no need to aim the jet directly into electrics or bearings. Just set it to a spray strong enough to remove mud and grit. I do my Honda almost daily in the winter.

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Bloody accountants! Is it really too expensive to have a decent layer of zinc everywhere? I'm not asking for a stainless steel bike, I may not like the weight, but give me at least zinc!


I can't be cleaning the bike every day, or I'll end up sleeping in the garage courtesy of SWMBO.

Is it going to work to take off fairings and spray this gunk everywhere on metalwork, then not wash until end of winter?

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Bloody accountants! Is it really too expensive to have a decent layer of zinc everywhere? I'm not asking for a stainless steel bike, I may not like the weight, but give me at least zinc!


I can't be cleaning the bike every day, or I'll end up sleeping in the garage courtesy of SWMBO.

Is it going to work to take off fairings and spray this gunk everywhere on metalwork, then not wash until end of winter?

 

Depends which 'gunk' you're referring to. If you spray ACF50 everywhere and leave it on all winter it will certainly help combat corrosion. My issue is we live near a salt mine so the bike gets covered in salt every day hence I wash it down. But for none salt grime ACF50 will do the job.

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I haven't given mine a proper wash or clean since the beginning of summer, it's been parked up outside under a cover when not being used since the first lockdown in March, the only thing i have done is the usual pre ride checks before a long ride out, haven't bothered with spraying anything on it and have only given it a quick wipe to remove some of the rain water before putting the cover back on, don't stress out over it :lol: :thumb:

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Bloody accountants! Is it really too expensive to have a decent layer of zinc everywhere? I'm not asking for a stainless steel bike, I may not like the weight, but give me at least zinc!


I can't be cleaning the bike every day, or I'll end up sleeping in the garage courtesy of SWMBO.

Is it going to work to take off fairings and spray this gunk everywhere on metalwork, then not wash until end of winter?

 

Depends which 'gunk' you're referring to. If you spray ACF50 everywhere and leave it on all winter it will certainly help combat corrosion. My issue is we live near a salt mine so the bike gets covered in salt every day hence I wash it down. But for none salt grime ACF50 will do the job.

 

As with any inhibitor the main main stage of preparation is having a DRY surface to add it to ..

No point trapping moisture in

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