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Is there a right way to brake for a corner?


nicklucey
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When using engine braking in traffic I always touch the back brake just enough to engage the switch. Just to give some warning to the traffic behind.

That, my dear Sir, is a wise move as a bike brakes a hell of a lot more than a car :up:

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The answer is no.There is no right way to break for a corner but there is a wrong way. You do not break on the corner but on the straight before you enter it! Breaks are designed to stop your bike and are efficient only to do so on straight so you never break when you are in the corner as that will make your bike level up[upright] and you will end up riding on the other side of the road!!!! If you feel your speed is way too high but you are already in the corner then lean as much as you can and yes outside your comfort zone because it's better to drop the bike but stay on your side of the line then break in the sharp corner and ended up on the other side of the road crashing head to head!


In town i will use front break before the corner then clutch in down gear clutch out lean..corner in and out and back to speed.


If it's a twisty (60mph limit/target :mrgreen: ) then it's usually no breaking but just 1/2 gears down before entering the corner then lean, glide in the corner, around and when almost out when bike is just on the edge of being upright again speed up.... Back break do not exist for me and it's for controlling my bike in snow and its the only time I might use it and it would be just a gentle tap. But you have to remember that although all bikes have gears and breaks in same places all really depends on type of your bike and speed you do. My behavior is for my bike only because there is no one rule for braking step by step for all bikes. You just have to see what works for your machine, your speed and your skills :thumb:

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When using engine braking in traffic I always touch the back brake just enough to engage the switch. Just to give some warning to the traffic behind.

 

Just passed my test a few months ago and my instructor was hot on that topic. He was happy for me to use the engine for braking but insisted I dabbed the brakes enough to keep the drivers behind me aware with a flash of the brake light.

I'm still learning but my main aim is always to get through bends, corners, roundabouts or whatever without touching the brakes at all - it's about having the correct speed going into the corner and throttling out smoothly as far as I'm concerned.

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Top tip is to learn how to brake in a corner. 'Cos, the bike wants to come up again. So what? Push it back down. Important part of the tool kit called riding skills and I can only recommend practising it.

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Top tip is to learn how to brake in a corner. 'Cos, the bike wants to come up again. So what? Push it back down. Important part of the tool kit called riding skills and I can only recommend practising it.

Uh oh.... Here comes a loaded question... How exactly do you push the bike back down???

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Uh oh.... Here comes a loaded question... How exactly do you push the bike back down???

stand on the foot peg of the way you want to go?

 

Start from 2mins 10

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lol, funny vid... counter steering it is then, down the bugger goes.


Edit:

As way of explanation here in Germany they call counter steering "pushing down". Been away for far too long...

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Top tip is to learn how to brake in a corner. 'Cos, the bike wants to come up again. So what? Push it back down. Important part of the tool kit called riding skills and I can only recommend practising it.

Uh oh.... Here comes a loaded question... How exactly do you push the bike back down???

 

Extra steering input, but the bike dosn't stand up it just feels like it dose from inexperince. I remember saying the same.

When you trail brake deep into a corner you need extra steering input, because you have extra input in on the bars when you off the brakes with no throttle on the bike feels like its going to drop.

You pick the bike up on the throttle.


Weighting the pegs just gets your body ready to move.

Pushing on them has no effect on the bike direction.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wow, so much misinformation.


Study how the shape of the tyre works and you'll start to understand this.


The circumference of the tyre is greater in the centre than it is on the edges.


Countersteering pushes the centre of the tyre away from the turn, causing the bike to roll over onto the side of the tyre, which has a lesser circumference hence tipping the bike over and initiating the turn, rolling round the curve on the side of the tyre.


Braking has the opposite effect. It rolls the bike back onto the centre section of the tyre, which will stand the bike back up and cause it to run straight.


You can brake in a corner and push the bike back down with a combination of more counter steering, peg weighting and body leaning using your opposite knee to pull the fuel tank over. The peg weighting and body steering as seen in the Keith Code video doesn't have much effect, but it does have some effect and every little helps when the braking forces are trying to push you back onto the centre of the tyre.


The reason most books and bike schools don't recommend braking in a corner is because it can end in tears. The tyre doesn't have an infinite amount of grip, let's say maximum grip is 100 percent. If you are cornering at 50 percent of the tyres available grip, then you add braking forces that add another 40 percent demand on the tyre, but you then have to add another 10 percent steering forces to stop the bike standing up. Oops! We hit 100 percent of the tyres available grip and we are surfing the tarmac on our arse! So you can brake in a corner and you can push the bike back down, but you need to understand how much load you are asking that front tyre to deal with vs how much grip is available. It's not easy to judge how much grip is available, it's different every moment of every ride and depends on tyre temperature, weather and the type and condition of the road surface.


My advise for when to brake would be before the corner, then shift to a very slightly positive throttle as you countersteer and tip in, then as the kids in the classroom on the Keith code videos are made to repeat over and over, gradually apply throttle all the way through the turn. The reason for this is again the demand you are putting on the tyres. Having a slightly positive throttle transfers weight to the rear tyre and improves rear grip by squishing that tyre into the tarmac, the transfer of weight from the front reduces that percentage demand you are putting on the available grip at the front.


That's it. Simples. Keith Code Twist of the Wrist is worth watching all the way through. Especially to learn about things like survival reactions.


But Keith Code, California bike school, etc only teaches you machine control.


Advanced training like IAM / ROSPA is worth while in addition to learn control of the environment around you, but sometimes spouts as much bollocks about bike control as this thread has.




Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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  • 1 month later...

I watched a guy die about 10 years ago when he thought he was going too fast for a bend and shut the throttle mid corner at about 110mph. The bike stood up and he got put into a dry stone wall.

If I'm mid corner and have a moment of doubt I find a little extra throttle normally settles things. As someone else has said that back tyre is made to take it!

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I watched a guy die about 10 years ago when he thought he was going too fast for a bend and shut the throttle mid corner at about 110mph. The bike stood up and he got put into a dry stone wall.

If I'm mid corner and have a moment of doubt I find a little extra throttle normally settles things. As someone else has said that back tyre is made to take it!

 

“No-one ever lost the front on the power” (Kenny Roberts).


You even continue to corner with the front wheel floating off the tarmac because the rear tyre is still on it's sidewall, so rolls in a curve.


Loosing the rear under the power is another matter, but if you're smooth with the throttle and your rear tyre is squished into the tarmac, you'll need litre sportsbike levels of BHP to do it in the dry.


http://cdn-6.motorsport.com/static/img/mgl/9500000/9550000/9558000/9558200/9558226/s8/roadracing-isle-of-man-tt-2016-michael-dunlop-bmw.jpg

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when I owned a twin I very rarely touched the brakes!

 

Yep still the same for me months on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Loads of people say that, but if braking with the rear wheel was a good way to brake, why do they fit two huge disk brakes on the front wheel??

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when I owned a twin I very rarely touched the brakes!

 

Yep still the same for me months on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Loads of people say that, but if braking with the rear wheel was a good way to brake, why do they fit two huge disk brakes on the front wheel??

 


You need to ride a twin ;-)

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Rear brake is for minorto mild speed alteration

Front is for major speed alteration

suggests all the Twin riders who claim not to use their brakes only require minor speed alterations... i.e. they are riding like grandmas!

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Rear brake is for minorto mild speed alteration

Front is for major speed alteration

suggests all the Twin riders who claim not to use their brakes only require minor speed alterations... i.e. they are riding like grandmas!

 

Or


Suggest twin riders don't slow down much!


Or


Suggests they are smooth riders and read the road :wink:

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Well I got away with it here in the wet 2 up, a little bit of both gently...

As you approach they slow down and stop OK they have seen me, get about 1/2 across the pub entrance and out they came. I can live with that its the lack of acceleration (slight hill) as they move on that makes it harder...


https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@50.8722739,-1.5880542,3a,75y,285.73h,75.63t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sSI7KtcvF7n8bmHLtoDTbhQ!2e0!7i13312!8i6656


Scary thing is if you get it wrong with breaking or cornering your trajectory is straight into the oncoming traffic.

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Rear brake is for minorto mild speed alteration

Front is for major speed alteration

suggests all the Twin riders who claim not to use their brakes only require minor speed alterations... i.e. they are riding like grandmas!

 

Or


Suggest twin riders don't slow down much!


Or


Suggests they are smooth riders and read the road :wink:

 


And the money they save on buying brake pads means they can afford to treat the Mrs to that surprise meal or special little gift .

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