Transmission issue rd350

no idea if this forum would help but it might be worth a look at http://www.aircooledrdclub.com/smf/index.php?PHPSESSID=fp7l8ngbbh1sd2gaevbdqvj9s2&

also worth looking into is the 250 the same gearbox as it widens your search for parts failing that it might be trips round autojumbles or trying www.partfinder.co.uk

Yes I ended up using a rd250 transmission, the only difference is first gear size but I didn't need it so I just used the shaft and 2nd gear from the 250. with all my seals gaskets and transmission parts it only end up costing me $102.77. I also know what I did wrong... wait for it... underfilled my transmission oil, but hey for others future reference it's supposed to hold 1500 cc or 1500 ml of oil. I also decided now is the time to clean and paint this bad boy so here's some pics. Currently I am only waiting for my clutch side gasket to come in the mail then I'll buy some more oil and start her up! After I put the engine back in the bike of course

I could use some advice though, I need to set my timing because the pistons moved around when I had my cases split and my points thingy off. So I pretty sure I know how to do it that's not my issue I can't figure out what kind of dial gauge to get and some of these gauges cost several hundred?!? No way I'm spending over $20 bucks for a little gauge, also I have read there can be clearance issues for the gauge because there isn't much room between the top of the engine and frame. Any advice?

Any advice?

Yeah, do it while you've got the engine out of the frame!

It's a 2 stroke, right? If you've got everything back together right "all you have to do" is set the max points gap (usually there's a mark on the crank or something). You can then use a cylinder probe/DTI/trig to find the crank rotation for the correct timing and use an ohm meter/battery and light bulb/Rizla paper to adjust the points so they're just opening.

Have you got a manual?

Any advice?

Yeah, do it while you've got the engine out of the frame!

It's a 2 stroke, right? If you've got everything back together right "all you have to do" is set the max points gap (usually there's a mark on the crank or something). You can then use a cylinder probe/DTI/trig to find the crank rotation for the correct timing and use an ohm meter/battery and light bulb/Rizla paper to adjust the points so they're just opening.

Have you got a manual?

Rizla and a rubber band. That's how I was taught to set them too.. proper old school cool!

Any advice?

Yeah, do it while you've got the engine out of the frame!

It's a 2 stroke, right? If you've got everything back together right "all you have to do" is set the max points gap (usually there's a mark on the crank or something). You can then use a cylinder probe/DTI/trig to find the crank rotation for the correct timing and use an ohm meter/battery and light bulb/Rizla paper to adjust the points so they're just opening.

Have you got a manual?

So if I'm following you correctly all I do is line up the mark on the crank to the little mark on the point case thingy and set the points to max open? I don't think I'm following you thy doesn't sound right. And how would I use a multi meter to set timing? I need a little more in depth because quite honestly I just don't understand. Thanks for the tip anyway

Any advice?

Yeah, do it while you've got the engine out of the frame!

It's a 2 stroke, right? If you've got everything back together right "all you have to do" is set the max points gap (usually there's a mark on the crank or something). You can then use a cylinder probe/DTI/trig to find the crank rotation for the correct timing and use an ohm meter/battery and light bulb/Rizla paper to adjust the points so they're just opening.

Have you got a manual?

And yes it's a 2stroke and I have a clymers manual that is it.

you should be able to see a t and f mark on the rotor the points should open at the f mark then just after it be set to correct gap and the t mark will be for piston 1 (left) being at tdc

http://justyamahard350.com/articles/bill.htm

Found this it's pretty detailed but the only thing I don't understand is how do I adjust the timing?

where the back plate the points are mounted onto is that held in place by 3 screws that go into the main casing?

have you seen this

Timing

I don't have a dial gauge and I don't see any "f" mark just this notch on the crank and the mark on the stator

You dont need a dial gauge, take the spark plug out, put a drinking straw in , mark it of when you get to TDC , mark the straw off in mm and take it back to 2mm Btdc

You dont need a dial gauge, take the spark plug out, put a drinking straw in , mark it of when you get to TDC , mark the straw off in mm and take it back to 2mm Btdc

Ok thanks that makes sense

So when I get to 2 mm before tdc what do I do set the points? Sorry for the silly questions but this whole points timing thing just hasn't clicked yet

So tell me if I got it... I want the piston to be 2mm before tdc when the timing marks align and at that moment I also want the points to open .25 mm. Does that sound right?

So tell me if I got it... I want the piston to be 2mm before tdc when the timing marks align and at that moment I also want the points to open .25 mm. Does that sound right?

Or do the timing marks show where tdc is and I want the points to open just before that?

you want the points to start to open at 2mm before top dead centre

The bit Spanner put up is a good guide - if you follow it step by step you should nail it.

In a nutshell; set the piston to 2mm BTDC, adjust the points gap to 0.3-0.4mm by loosening the backplate screw (usually just above/right next to the contact breakers) and moving the plate.

Do that screw up and slightly loosen the one at the other end of the points. If you've got a continuity meter, connect one probe to the grey or orange wire on the points depending which one you're doing and the other to a ground point. Otherwise, put your finest feeler gauge between the contact breakers (rizla/cigarette paper or something very thin will work).

There's usually a v shape in the back plate near the loosened screw and a dink/hole behind it so you can use a screwdriver to lever/rotate the points around. Bring the points together slowly until the continuity goes to less than 4 Ohm. If you're using a rizla or feeler gauge, slide it about in the points gap while closing them until you feel the paper/gauge start to drag.

You can tighten the screw now and rotate the crank to 2mm BTDC and check that everything is okey-dokey.

Don't worry about the stuff about the 0.25mm card in that link - it's just describing cleaning the points.

Edit: What Steve said.

Ok I think I've got it now I'll try when I get home

Looks like the points and timing were ok anyway but at least I know how to do it thanks a bunch guys... anyway hopefully I get the bike back together tonight and maybe I'll get to go riding tomorrow

The plot thickens! Well heres the deal, I start the bike after putting her back together (it was midnight when I finally finished, hope the neighbors don't hate me) anyway she roared to life no problems everything is fixed right? Wrong. There is still something wrong with the clutch I cannot push the bike easily when in gear and pulling clutch in... it seems it won't disengage properly, when I push it in gear it forces the pistons around as well ( I can hear the compression as they go up and down) just as if you're pushing it in first gear without the clutch pulled in. But it does slip a little bit and is just a tad easier than without the clutch in. So what do you guys think is wrong?

First thing to check is the clutch cable adjustment. Make sure it's not too slack and that it has good feel when pulling it back.

If the cable is adjusted correctly and you still have the problem you'll need to pop the clutch cover off...

if the cable adjustment doesnt do it as joe say clutch cover off and check you have put it all back together correctly with the plates in the right order