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More YBR issues


Skimblet
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Hi Everyone me again with more YBR issues,


I am having issues starting, sometimes! I am getting an Error code of 19 which is as follows


Fault code 19 - No signal from ignition to ecu


My understanding is, is that this has nothing to do with the ignition as such but requires me to check some wires.


Recently (after the issue started, which was after I dropped it gently) I have changed the spark plug and air filter (as well as chain sprockets and brake shoes) there is oil in the engine and fuel in the tank.


sometimes it has an issue starting and sometimes it will cut out while riding and then start itself up and carry on


Any help or pointing me in the right direction is much appreciated

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Check battery connections

Which side did it drop on ...if it was the right hand side (if sitting on it ) could be the kill switch .

Or if handlebars were turned harshly when it went over could be the wiring harness got pulled and has caused a dodgy connection at the multi plugs

Whilst its running (stationary) try jiggling wires around the bars like the igntion switch wires etc


Check and clean all fuse terminals


Check the battery has enough acid in it (if its a wet battery) especially seen its been over

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Sometimes it will start and then just cut out straight away, this morning it did that 5 or 6 times then started and I managed to ride to work, although it did cut out and then start again on the way, would the ignition barrel cause something like this?

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Check battery connections

Which side did it drop on ...if it was the right hand side (if sitting on it ) could be the kill switch .

Or if handlebars were turned harshly when it went over could be the wiring harness got pulled and has caused a dodgy connection at the multi plugs

Whilst its running (stationary) try jiggling wires around the bars like the igntion switch wires etc


Check and clean all fuse terminals


Check the battery has enough acid in it (if its a wet battery) especially seen its been over

 

Yes was right hand side, was very gentle drop, I still had hold of it!


I don't think it has a kill switch


I did check battery connections but will do this again just to make sure, as for all the other connections I shall work through them, I have the Haynes manual so hopefully this will help me with that


Generally if I play with the plug cap it helps, so was going to replace that as well just in case

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Sometimes it will start and then just cut out straight away, this morning it did that 5 or 6 times then started and I managed to ride to work, although it did cut out and then start again on the way, would the ignition barrel cause something like this?

 

I'm not sure, maybe - the vibrations can move the keys. If you've got it stationary but engine running, try wiggling the key to see if it cuts out.

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Sometimes it will start and then just cut out straight away, this morning it did that 5 or 6 times then started and I managed to ride to work, although it did cut out and then start again on the way, would the ignition barrel cause something like this?

 

I'm not sure, maybe - the vibrations can move the keys. If you've got it stationary but engine running, try wiggling the key to see if it cuts out.

 

Thanks will give that a try

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Check battery connections

Which side did it drop on ...if it was the right hand side (if sitting on it ) could be the kill switch .

Or if handlebars were turned harshly when it went over could be the wiring harness got pulled and has caused a dodgy connection at the multi plugs

Whilst its running (stationary) try jiggling wires around the bars like the igntion switch wires etc


Check and clean all fuse terminals


Check the battery has enough acid in it (if its a wet battery) especially seen its been over

 

Yes was right hand side, was very gentle drop, I still had hold of it!


I don't think it has a kill switch


I did check battery connections but will do this again just to make sure, as for all the other connections I shall work through them, I have the Haynes manual so hopefully this will help me with that


Generally if I play with the plug cap it helps, so was going to replace that as well just in case

 

Careful playing with plug caps ... the shock from rhe 15,000 to 48,000 volts on most ignition ststems even though rarely fatal can lead to further injury ( recoiling in shock and tripping ) .i never trust the insulation .

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  • 2 weeks later...

Gradually trying to whittle down what could be wrong with it.


Have checked cabling and from what I can see it all looks ok


Next step is to replace the ignition barrel in case it is the contacts in that, that is the issue, is this a big job or should it be pretty straightforward? is there anything in particular I should look out for?


TIA

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My daughter had a YBR with similar fault,sometimes wouldnt start.

Dealer diagnosed ignition switch when we took it in for part ex.

 

this is where I get confused, by switch do you mean the button on the bars, or do you mean a switch within the barrel?

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My daughter had a YBR with similar fault,sometimes wouldnt start.

Dealer diagnosed ignition switch when we took it in for part ex.

 

this is where I get confused, by switch do you mean the button on the bars, or do you mean a switch within the barrel?

The barrel where the key goes.

Never saw if it fixed it but the diagnosis made sense

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Hi, have you checked the ignition barrel/switch for continuity, that test will be in your manual, its a case of following the wires down to the connector and unplugging and testing the pairs up to the barrel for continuity(take off the positive lead from the battery), because if it is the barrel that your changing they could have shear head bolts in, you would have to take the top yoke off to get at them and try to turn them with a center punch. Have a look on the net for "Shear Head Bolts" :thumb:

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Hi, have you checked the ignition barrel/switch for continuity, that test will be in your manual, its a case of following the wires down to the connector and unplugging and testing the pairs up to the barrel for continuity(take off the positive lead from the battery), because if it is the barrel that your changing they could have shear head bolts in, you would have to take the top yoke off to get at them and try to turn them with a center punch. Have a look on the net for "Shear Head Bolts" :thumb:

 

I watched a video of someone doing it on an R6 which gave me a bit of an idea, I have a dremel which I can take to them if necessary


Will check the continuity properly before I do it, I thought I had but I think I did it wrong (again I watched a video on how to do it after ordering the part :oops: )

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Hi, have you checked the ignition barrel/switch for continuity, that test will be in your manual, its a case of following the wires down to the connector and unplugging and testing the pairs up to the barrel for continuity(take off the positive lead from the battery), because if it is the barrel that your changing they could have shear head bolts in, you would have to take the top yoke off to get at them and try to turn them with a center punch. Have a look on the net for "Shear Head Bolts" :thumb:

 

I watched a video of someone doing it on an R6 which gave me a bit of an idea, I have a dremel which I can take to them if necessary


Will check the continuity properly before I do it, I thought I had but I think I did it wrong (again I watched a video on how to do it after ordering the part :oops: )

Hi, yes could save you a lot of work if continuity is OK in barrel :thumb:

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sorted (I think) black wire and black/white wire.


now if I'm correct a reading of 60 or so on the multimeter means my issue is there right?

If those wires are the ignition wires.....and your meter was switched to Ohms, then that may well be the issue...... :wink:

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sorted (I think) black wire and black/white wire.


now if I'm correct a reading of 60 or so on the multimeter means my issue is there right?

Sorry for the delay in answering, changed my provider from Sky to Plusnet and had to wait for connection,anyway ,yes from the connector back to the ignition barrel check the Black/White and Black for continuity and the Red and Brown for continuity, the key has to be in the "on" position in the barrel for continuity test to work :wink:

But battery not connected

Edited by ThePhatomfart
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sorted (I think) black wire and black/white wire.


now if I'm correct a reading of 60 or so on the multimeter means my issue is there right?

Sorry for the delay in answering, changed my provider from Sky to Plusnet and had to wait for connection,anyway ,yes from the connector back to the ignition barrel check the Black/White and Black for continuity and the Red and Brown for continuity, the key has to be in the "on" position in the barrel for continuity test to work :wink:

 

I only checked the black and black/white wire, key was in the on position


video of multimeter (i wiggled the keys around as well)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaMpc7HclHE

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