More YBR issues

How were you connecting the multimeter to the wires? Were you holding the bare ends of the meter probes and thus measuring your own resistance?

sorted (I think) black wire and black/white wire.

now if I'm correct a reading of 60 or so on the multimeter means my issue is there right?

Sorry for the delay in answering, changed my provider from Sky to Plusnet and had to wait for connection,anyway ,yes from the connector back to the ignition barrel check the Black/White and Black for continuity and the Red and Brown for continuity, the key has to be in the "on" position in the barrel for continuity test to work

 

I only checked the black and black/white wire, key was in the on position

video of multimeter (i wiggled the keys around as well)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaMpc7HclHE

Hi, the multimeter needs to be in continuity mode to measure, it looks like that mode on your multimeter is down the bottom

This Multimeter PDF might help you Page 18

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1snrm8usm8en1gc/all.pdf?dl=0

Ah so the Ohm setting is different?

Ill have another crack over the weekend

I'm guessing the resistance being that high is still possibly an issue though is it?

Thanks for all your help

That's correct, you want it as low as possible,high shows an open circuit

Its on the correct range, for ohm's. The 5 0'clock setting seems to be DC volts.

for continuity the value should be zero and reasonably steady.

There may be a continuity check position on the meter just passed the 6 o'clock position, looks like the symbol for a diode but can't really tell. the continuity position usually has a buzzer to show the wires are connected and is easier than looking at the display.

Spanners guide shows this.

Also as Joe says try not to use your fingers to connect the probes as in the Ohm's range you will measure your own resistance.

HTH

How were you connecting the multimeter to the wires? Were you holding the bare ends of the meter probes and thus measuring your own resistance?

I wasn't touching the wires or probes at all, the probes were inserted into the part of the connector where the wires go in.

I will have another crack at the continuity thing over the weekend, there is a diode symbol thing at the bottom like you say, will set it to that and see what it says.

Unfortunately I am one of those people who should not be let loose on something like this

Read the booklet that came with the meter then before using that position and check it does do continuity with buzzer.

Unfortunately I am one of those people who should not be let loose on something like this

No! It's fab you're learning about it and asking questions! The only reason I don't post stuff like this is that I know JRH in real life so he gets phone calls

Continuity now checked properly, on both sets of cables (Black - Black/White and Red - Brown) both of which returned high numbers.

(after market) Replacement ignition barrel arrived in the post, looked exactly the same apart from wires were a different colour, being an aftermarket one didnt really see this as an issue.

Wired up new one to check before takeing old one off etc and it just blows fuses, a quick google seems that replacement ones like this are just all bollocks and not wired in the same way internally. As in when the key is in the on position it does not complete the circuit on all four cable but only on two and when in the off position it completes the circuit on the other two, or something like that, but end result is, it will never work with the bike, so thats going back.

Is it possible to take an ignition switch apart and clean/refurbish it as im guessing the issue is the contacts inside being corroded

Hi, was it a after market type, usually when the wires are different colour they come from China, did you test continuity on the barrel before you placed it in, as at least then you can separate the 2 sets of wires with continuity and then offer them up to the connector

Hi, was it a after market type, usually when the wires are different colour they come from China, did you test continuity on the barrel before you placed it in, as at least then you can separate the 2 sets of wires with continuity and then offer them up to the connector

Ive not tested anything on the new one, its not yet on the bike I just connected the wires to try it and it said no by blowing the fuse

new one tested

Black and black/white have continuity when key is in the off position and the brown and red when the key is in the on position, as far as i know they should both be when in the on position

Hi ,no need to put the new one on the bike yet, just check the new one for continuity on the 2 sets of wires , separate the two sets and just offer them up to the connector, you could blow a fuse first time , but then that means just swap the 2 sets around

(Key in the barrel and switched on)

But am i right in saying that if I am only getting continuity on one pair when ignition off that, that is an issue as the circuits on both sets should only be complete when the key is in the on position, and therefore regardless of how its wired to the bike its never going to do its job

Hi have you checked a combinations of the 4 wires or are you saying that only 2 wires out of the 4 have continuity

Hi have you checked a combinations of the 4 wires or are you saying that only 2 wires out of the 4 have continuity

checked all combinations, only 2 of the 4 have continuity when on and the other two only have continuity when off

Hi, what are the wire colours on the new barrel, to see where it came from

I have the same colours as on the old barrel

Red

Brown

Black

Black/White

On the current barrel, the Black, Brown, Black/White go into a connector, the Red is seperate - Black and black/white are one circuit and the Red and Brown are the other

On the new barrel, the Black, Red and Brown go into a connector and the Black/White is seperate, the Black - Black/White are one circuit, the Red Bown are the other

When connecting the new barrel to the bike, the Black/White ends up being connected to the Red if i just go with the current connectors (which is clearly incorrect).

The circuit diagram for the bike shows that the two cirtcuits should be complete when the ignition is on.

Thanks for your help and patience

Looking onEbay there are 2 switches listed, one for a FI bike and one for a carburettor.

The carb one seems to have the single wire as black/white, this may be the issue.

The EFI has single red wire.

See here.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-YBR125-Ignition-Switch-2007-2014-4-wires-e-f-i-models-/301992830760?hash=item46502ce728:g:4vcAAOSwM4xXalOr

Can't at the mo seem to find a wiring diagram for the carbed bike.

Hi ,as far as I can remember yours yours is the 2011 model, the colours are the same for carbs and injection, except on the injection model the black wire from the barrel goes into the light green on the connnector, dont worry we will get to the bottom of this

Wiring diagrams

Wiring diagrams

That's interesting Spanner 'cause from that can not see why there are 2 switches listed as they both seem to be connect the same way unless there are specific year changes.

And yet in the pictures of the switches the single wire is a different colour for each type.

Yes can only suggest undoing the connectors on the new barrel and wiring them up as wiring diagram ie colour to colour

Yes mine is a 2011 ED Model. I have the haynes manual which is where I got the bit about the circuits only being complete when the ignition is on, it doesnt seem to give any more information around the ignition.

As an aside trying to be a bit creative and work with what I have, would i be able to just connect the two that are connected when the ignition is on and the other two on a switch which I could then just flick after turning the key and before pressing the start button.

I have also emailed the seller, A) to tell them the item is just blowing my fuses and B) requesting a refund, they appear to be in China so I do not hold out much hope of the latter, although they have responded saying they will come back to me tomorrow