More YBR issues

Yes can only suggest undoing the connectors on the new barrel and wiring them up as wiring diagram ie colour to colour

I think the connections within the barrel are wrong though, as there are two that are a circuit when the ignition is off, so I dont think that would work either

Yes mine is a 2011 ED Model. I have the haynes manual which is where I got the bit about the circuits only being complete when the ignition is on, it doesnt seem to give any more information around the ignition.

As an aside trying to be a bit creative and work with what I have, would i be able to just connect the two that are connected when the ignition is on and the other two on a switch which I could then just flick after turning the key and before pressing the start button.

I have also emailed the seller, A) to tell them the item is just blowing my fuses and B) requesting a refund, they appear to be in China so I do not hold out much hope of the latter, although they have responded saying they will come back to me tomorrow

That is a possibility, you could also use the correct acting circuit from the switch to also power a relay that would switch the second circuit.

These would be work rounds though if you are unable to get the correct switch.

Yes mine is a 2011 ED Model. I have the haynes manual which is where I got the bit about the circuits only being complete when the ignition is on, it doesnt seem to give any more information around the ignition.

As an aside trying to be a bit creative and work with what I have, would i be able to just connect the two that are connected when the ignition is on and the other two on a switch which I could then just flick after turning the key and before pressing the start button.

I have also emailed the seller, A) to tell them the item is just blowing my fuses and B) requesting a refund, they appear to be in China so I do not hold out much hope of the latter, although they have responded saying they will come back to me tomorrow

Dont think that would work, as the ECU needs to be involved for everything to work, only thing I can suggest is stripping off the new barrel connector and rewiring it ,but if you say the Ignition switch is faulty ,it would'nt help,

you could also use the correct acting circuit from the switch to also power a relay that would switch the second circuit.

These would be work rounds though if you are unable to get the correct switch.

That bit confuses me

Any chance you could send us a picture of the wiring connections on the bike and from both barrels

Any chance you could send us a picture of the wiring connections on the bike and from both barrels

[media][/media]

New barrel

Old Barrel

Connections on bike

you could also use the correct acting circuit from the switch to also power a relay that would switch the second circuit.

These would be work rounds though if you are unable to get the correct switch.

 

That bit confuses me

spanner

Like this

On the new barrel which are connected when the switch is on?

On the new barrel which are connected when the switch is on?

The Brown and Red

Hi, yes looking at that it seems the bullet connector on the new barrel should be on the red wire thats in the 3 pin connector, but if you say the ignition barrel isnt working there wouldn't be any use of changing the connector, but it could be worth a go ,cos if that came from China it would probably cost you more to send it back, have you tried changing connectors before, its a little fiddly but it does work, you would need bullet connectors for the red wire

you could also use the correct acting circuit from the switch to also power a relay that would switch the second circuit.

These would be work rounds though if you are unable to get the correct switch.

 

That bit confuses me

spanner

 

image.jpeg

Like this

Spot on bit of wiring there JRH

I think even changing the connectors you can only use the one pair that are connected when the switch is in the on position.

Would you be ok with following the sketch I sent. This would work better than a second switch as you suggested earlier.

spanner

Thanks spanner

Would you be ok with following the sketch I sent. This would work better than a second switch as you suggested earlier.

 

I can definitely give it a go (on holiday for a few days) but will do so when I get back

Would you be ok with following the sketch I sent. This would work better than a second switch as you suggested earlier.

 

 

I can definitely give it a go (on holiday for a few days) but will do so when I get back

Just take it easy, check everything before powering up. Any doubts, or questions just shout or PM me if you want.

And have a good holiday.

what do the numbers on the sketch in the relay represent?

Edit: - I see the numbers on the actual relay thingys so think I get it now

And with the brown, would I be feeding it into some kind of splitter to feed to the relay and to the brown?

something like this maybe ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alightings-Connectors-Without-Stripping-Compatible/dp/B01GMYJC42/ref=s9_simh_gw_g263_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=FDSAXETH0W9FH854R1GB&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=16f14aeb-bd11-4e9e-8c26-9ca0139074ee&pf_rd_i=desktop

what do the numbers on the sketch in the relay represent?

Edit: - I see the numbers on the actual relay thingys so think I get it now

And with the brown, would I be feeding it into some kind of splitter to feed to the relay and to the brown?

something like this maybe ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alightings-Connectors-Without-Stripping-Compatible/dp/B01GMYJC42/ref=s9_simh_gw_g263_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=FDSAXETH0W9FH854R1GB&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=16f14aeb-bd11-4e9e-8c26-9ca0139074ee&pf_rd_i=desktop

Hi, just a little info for you,to go along with JRH's wiring diagram

http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html

thanks

what do the numbers on the sketch in the relay represent?

Edit: - I see the numbers on the actual relay thingys so think I get it now

And with the brown, would I be feeding it into some kind of splitter to feed to the relay and to the brown?

something like this maybe ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alightings-Connectors-Without-Stripping-Compatible/dp/B01GMYJC42/ref=s9_simh_gw_g263_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=FDSAXETH0W9FH854R1GB&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=16f14aeb-bd11-4e9e-8c26-9ca0139074ee&pf_rd_i=desktop

You could , or use the scotch locks available from Halfords , maplin etc.

should be OK for this. whichever you use wrap them in good PVC tape to help keep the elements out.

Update........

Had the holiday and popped to halfords to get the bits I needed, then when into the range instead and got it all for half the price

I attempted to wire the new ignition barrel in to see if it worked with the relay and bingo, all was good, bike started several times without an issue.

next step was to put it in place properly, this is where I have stumbled as i cant get the yoke off to get to the underneath, so it is going to have to wait for a bit.

In the meantime, would it be a problem if i 'move' the ignition to another point on the bike until I can sort it properly?

And again thanks for all your help

Yes thats possible , but leaves you open to theft, you will have to use both sets of keys, one for ignition and one for steering lock on existing barrel, what is the problem with the top yoke ?

seems I don't have a spanner/socket big enough to get it off.

I'm getting ready to scrap this thing (I wont though)

Still have what appears to be the ignition problem (as not changed it over yet)

Now this morning it cut out several times while riding, it also appears to be revving high and possibly slipping out of gear or something with the clutch, I'm not overly sure.

I have now booked it into a garage for a bit of a health check, they have also said they can change the ignition for me if needed. sort of feels like I'm quitting but I think it just needs a pro to check it out for me to make sure there is nothing majorly wrong with it.

I'm getting ready to scrap this thing (I wont though)

Still have what appears to be the ignition problem (as not changed it over yet)

Now this morning it cut out several times while riding, it also appears to be revving high and possibly slipping out of gear or something with the clutch, I'm not overly sure.

I have now booked it into a garage for a bit of a health check, they have also said they can change the ignition for me if needed. sort of feels like I'm quitting but I think it just needs a pro to check it out for me to make sure there is nothing majorly wrong with it.

Its not a defeat , those ignition bolts can be a bugger to drill out, better they do that, is the bike reving high at idle, or intermittent , the clutch might just need adjustment, its a shame there's nobody near you to give you a hand

revving high intermittently

Its one of the things I will ask them to look at when they have it, ive booked it in for an hours workshop time and will do more if required

I'm guessing the garage must be fairly good, apart form the fact they cam recommended by at least three people, they are also fully booked up until the beginning of April

I wouldn't say you are quitting easily. You've put a lot of effort in and sometimes the best action is to go, "that's beyond my ability and needs a pro".

You've still learnt plenty