Clutch adjustment - SV650.

I've posted this on an SV forum but aren't getting any luck whatsoever and no one seems to want to know. Anyone out there help me please?

I've had to take the clutch release mechanism off in order to change the front sprocket (new chain etc). When I took the mechanism off it all fell in bits (ball bearings the lot!).

Anyway managed to clean it all up, collect all the bearings up and grease it properly and I'm fairly certain it's back together in the correct position as the arm looks like it's in the right place.

I made the mistake of releasing off the cable and the adjuster through the centre and now I'm having trouble setting it again properly!

The bit that's thrown me is the free play for the push rod. I've slackened off the cable completely, undone the locking nut on the end and screwed back the small screw in the centre.

I've then adjusted the screw back in until it's just touching the end of the rod and then backed it off slightly. I've then tried adjusting the cable but it's miles too slack and there's no where near enough adjustment.

Screwing the central screw further in so it feel as though it's pressing onto the end of the push rod seems to alleviate the problem and I can then get the correct amount of free play on the cable. I've not been able to test the clutch properly as I've not got the chain yet.

How far exactly are you supposed to screw the adjuster in because I'm certain just touching the end of the push rod doesn't seem the correct way of doing it, yet most guides refer to this method?

There is a specific way to set these get it wrong and it won't work right

I will write it up when on my pc if you can wait

There is a specific way to set these get it wrong and it won't work right

I will write it up when on my pc if you can wait

I'm in no massive rush as such, I'm still waiting for the chain and sprockets but I've just been having a play around with it before hand so I know what I'm doing with it. The main problem seems to be the position of the screw in relation to the push rod behind it. I have it so the cable is slack and still connected.

Then screw the little screw in until it's touching the end of the push rod and take it back about a quarter turn or just less then lock up the locking nut on the end. I've then just far too much cable slack to adjust it then, it's as if the adjusting screw needs to be a lot further in for it to work.

You adjust the screw last and take the cable slack out first

The arm that is connected to the cable should be at around a 90 degree angle to the fixing bolts

Remove the slack with the adjuster at the bottom of the cable the one closest to the clutch the top one is for fine adjustments

Once all that is set you screw the centre screw so it just touches the push rod then back it off a quarter to half a turn

You adjust the screw last and take the cable slack out first

The arm that is connected to the cable should be at around a 90 degree angle to the fixing bolts

Remove the slack with the adjuster at the bottom of the cable the one closest to the clutch the top one is for fine adjustments

Once all that is set you screw the centre screw so it just touches the push rod then back it off a quarter to half a turn

Could be where I'm going wrong then! All the other guides online say to adjust the central small screw first and then take up the cable slack after.

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54588

If you do that the arm won't be in the correct position to start with and you will get a lot of movement before you take up the slack on the ball bearings/mechanism

Its the same set up as the TL and don't take this the wrong way but people who don't know how it all works always get it wrong once you sus it out though you will see what I mean

Just quickly read that thread and that's a classic example of someone who thinks how it should be done

I'm still not on my pc I will try and get some references for you though

I ended up at my lock up today where my brothers SV is along with his manual so I took some snaps for ya

Cheers for that Stu. To be honest I've struggled with pretty much all the online guides including the above and tried various different ways. I settled for the trial and error approach. I screwed the central screw in a fair way and started the bike up and just kept trying it and adjusting. I've got it pretty much spot on where I want it now so all is good. Well other than the stripped thread on one of the bolts on the rear sprocket.

well if you want me to have a look at it your only an hours ride away you can pay me a visit if you want

well if you want me to have a look at it your only an hours ride away you can pay me a visit if you want

Cheers for that. I could do with a trip to the coast. Too much work on at the moment so doesn't look like I'm going to get out and about for a week or two

I know that feeling!

as I say if you want me to have a look your more than welcome to come over just contact me well in advance first as I work right shit shifts

Wish I'd seen this earlier

Just a matter of undoing the lock nut, undoing the screw and then doing it back up until it tightens then back it off 1/4 of a turn. Had an issue with my push rod not working properly and it getting stuck in various gears

Not entirely true Fozzie

If you don't set the worm drive as per manual you will have trouble with the clutch

Setting it as per manual removes the slack out of the bearings and cage inside the actuator so when you pull the lever you move the arm straight away and not just take up the slack in the worm drive

Its exactly the same set up as the TL and I know loads of people who have had nothing but trouble until they set it as per manual

I dove in as I had no manual at the time and no time to wait!

I agree on the worm drive having to be set up right, I saw a little chamber that the worm drive seats into on the sprocket cover and when putting it back together I remember trying to get it so it worked correctly. Took about 20 minutes of faffing but I got there...

Then the damn bush on the gear lever seized and it wasn't returning on the spring anymore

Thats what I get for washing it and no WD40 on the sensitive places...

The clutch setup on my honda is free from this... Shame I don't want to get it wet.

Kind of got mine sorted now.... I just did a bit of trial and error with it and got it somewhere near. Yesterdays ride out showed however that the biting point was a little too far away from the bar and was only just getting full bite, with a very slight bit of clutch slip when giving it the full beans. I've rectified that now though and brought it back towards the middle.